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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So...
I picked up a 68 chop a few weeks ago and finally got a chance to work on it for a few minutes. The wiring was a mess so I found this diagram for stock points wiring and wired my bike like this. I gave it several kicks and see NO spark... so I am wondering a few things:

1. Does this diagram look good for a stock ignition setup?
If you have a better/easier diagram I would love to see it. Just remember it needs to be for a neg. ground, points bike with the tympian unit (what does it do by the way?).
2. How do I test the individual components of the ignition (coils, tympian unit, etc...). I have never worked on a brit bike (mostly Jap) so I am a total newb when it comes to Lucas and his AMAZING electrical :)
3. I would like to get the bike running using the stock components, and then I will probably switch it over to an aftermarket setup. What do you guys recommend... Boyer, Sparx, ???

Sorry for the "dumb" questions but I have to learn sometime. Please no suggestions just to scrap the existing ignition and start fresh, I want to make sure that the motor is OK before I purchase any other parts. Thanks in advance for the help... Cole
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
4. does the wire from the key switch go to the + or - side of the coil?

5. Which of these components needs to be grounded to the bike in order to work? I wired everything up just like the diagram shows, but left all the wiring to the components extra long and laid all the stuff on the shop floor just to see if it would work before I mounted it permanently. I did mount the tympian unit to the frame though... if that matters?

6. My tympian unit wire colors and locations are different than the one shown in the diagram, where it says black (wire) my wire is brown, and my wires are not in the same locations (but the rest of the colors are the same)???
 

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If you just want to check the motor out to see if it runs, you could bypass everything and run a hot lead from the Neg battery terminal to one of the coils. Don't leave it on too long without the bike running cause it can heat up the coils, also you wont have control to stop the motor without pulling the wire if it starts.

best bet is to gap the points, pull a plug, wire like i mentioned and kick it over to see if you get spark at the plug. you could also just use a screwdriver to jump the points to see if you get spark.

I had the same issue with the '66 lightning i picked up a few weeks ago.

good luck!
 

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If you don't have a voltmeter, you need to get one. The voltmeter will tell you whether or not you have 12V at the coils and at the points when the ignition is ON. You can also use it to follow the voltage through your wiring.
For the coils, Negative is hot, positive is ground. The black/ wire from the tympanium will go to the battery.

Anyway, with power to the coils and points it should have spark. If the bike has been sitting a long time, the points may be oxidized. Take some wet/dry sandpaper and run it between the points contact surfaces a bit to clean them. Check the point gap, also.

Ideally, all grounds should be to the same location on the frame and all paint must be removed from the frame where the ground wires are attached.

Have fun.
 

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Speaking of plugs, I haven't bought new plugs in many years. I just sand/glass-bead them clean once or twice a year.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ok,
I have a voltmeter and can use it to do some testing, but I need to know exactly what to test, where, and in what sequence.

So based on the wiring diagram let me see if I have this right...
From the neg side of the battery I would run a wire to the black wire on the tympian, and one to the batt side of the ign switch.

From the ign switch I would then come out off the start (ign) side and go to the neg post of the larger coil, the I would run a connecting from the pos side of that coil to the positive side of the other coil.

Then I would run a wire from each coils neg post to each condensor (and the other wire on each condensor would be a ground).

I would also run a wire from the neg post of both coils to the points.

The red wire on the tympian would be a ground, and both yellow wires would be hooked to the stator.

I just want to make sure that I am reading the diagram correct... I usually can wire from a diagram :) Let me know if this is all correct or if I am off.

Also, if I understand correctly the tympian is not related to the ignition, it is for the charging system???

How do I test to ensure my coils and condensors work?

Wow! Sorry again for all the questions, I will get it I promise!
 

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Like Barnum was saying, bypass Everything and see how she runs. You don't need the charging system at all to get it going. You can ride around the block a few times just with the battery. Or the ignition switch, which can be troublesome, lights- cut all that of the loop for now. Don't know if you still have positive ground or somebody coulda changed it. Figure that out, hot wire straight to the pair of coils, wire cutters in yer pocket for a kill switch and start kicking. More or less.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
It's a runner!!!
So... I went back and checked over my wiring and everything looked good??? I then lightly sanded the points and I finally saw spark there (progress!), so I tried kicking it over several times... and it backfired out of the exhaust every other time I kicked it over. I thought "this acts like it's firing the wrong cylinder" so I switched the spark plug wires and it fired on the first kick. Seems to run well with the new PWK (JRC) carb. Now I am excited to wire it the right way and take it for a test drive. I will post a video of it running shortly.
 
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