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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Got a "parts" bike recently that someone started restoring then just made it into a static display. Been sitting for more than a decade, but thankfully was pretty easy to get running. The bad part is they built it without a front brake. It is supposed to be a 42 WL springer on the front, but the front wheel was laced to a UL/EL hub.

I am a shovel guy this is all new to me.

Right now it has a non locking foot clutch and no front brake. I can live with one but not both. I need a front brake and maybe converting back to a rocker clutch in the long run if I don't like the setup it has now.

I know the UL/EL is the same hub you use on the rear of a WL. But you are not supposed go the other way. But that's what is on the bike now.

So my question is two parts.
  • Is this a WL springer, or something else. I was under the impression that the WL/UL was the same part?
  • Can I put a UL/EL front drum on this springer and hub or do I need to get a WL hub and re-lace the wheel.
  • I know the hub I have was used on the WLC in the front but all those parts are interchangeable with the UL according to what I have read.
  • Is there a supplier that sells a whole front brake kit, backing plate, bolts, the brake lever that is a prefered vendor.
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Now for the heresy and I mean it. THere are plenty of small 8-10 inch brake kits out there that adapt these hubs to disk brake. I have done something similar by finding an adapter for one of my shovels.

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Yea WW cycles sell it
I got one on my bike still doesn’t stop it.
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the twin LS brake backing plate from W&W works very well, but you need to profile the shoes for a perfect fit or they are worse than the stock brake,....
on the disc kit for the WL Springers, I was told they are not reommended on older forks with a dubious history or those with deep pitted rust or repaires,as some have been known to bend the rear fork leg as disc's are too powerful for them to handle.... might be why stock 45 brakes were not too good, in built safety by not being good !! hahahahaha
 

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Yeah, ha ha, but when the English mfgr Ariel was selling the 250cc Golden Arrow and its variants -- all made from pressed steel, forks included -- they deliberately gave it a piss-poor front brake because a better one would bend the frail pressings. Pretty certain they acknowledged having done so.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
the twin LS brake backing plate from W&W works very well, but you need to profile the shoes for a perfect fit or they are worse than the stock brake,....
on the disc kit for the WL Springers, I was told they are not recommended on older forks with a dubious history or those with deep pitted rust or repairs, as some have been known to bend the rear fork leg as disc's are too powerful for them to handle.... might be why stock 45 brakes were not too good, in built safety by not being good !! hahahahaha
Honestly anything is better then no front brake right now. If you mean grinding down the pad so they have full contact on the drum I tend to do that on just about every drum system I have. One of my old teachers taught me to do it with chalk and a belt sander. Makes a huge difference. I am not expecting M50 Brembo performance like I have on my track bike but I want something on the order of a properly maintained drum shovel brake. I can slam the rear on the bike now and skid easy as pie and it stops the bike actually pretty good but I cannot for the life of me stop and keep the clutch in even with turning the bars over so the bike always falls on the right side so I can get my foot down. Looks cool as hell when it works but not practical for SoCal street riding.

I have a hard time thinking that they could bend a springer, mine is in really good shape, the old style firestones tires are going to skid long before any stress gets moved onto the fork. But I am used to making things out of modern alloys and throwing it in solidworks to check the math.

Send a email to Korban garage, they set me up with everything and found a few things I am missing. ~900$ all in for everything I need is not terrible all things considered when I have not parts to start and it is a upgrade from the factory WL stuff.
 

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NO! the WL and the UL Fork are not the same!
A WL use a 7/8 stem the UL EL etc. got the 1" Stem

I took a ordinary Single cam brake Plate and Converted it to a Double Cam Brake!
you can feel a differnce! and it´s try to slow the whole thing down a bit more than stock.
Even Not like modern Brakes!
 

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That fork is either a WLC or a G model fork, or someone just drilled out the rocker holes & installed WLC, G, E, U, & V type outside rockers.
You can use any WLC, G, or 36-48 big twin brake assembly without any problems or modifications.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
That fork is either a WLC or a G model fork, or someone just drilled out the rocker holes & installed WLC, G, E, U, & V type outside rockers.
You can use any WLC, G, or 36-48 big twin brake assembly without any problems or modifications.
If I am measuring the neck right it is a 0.75 inch shaft wo WLC or WL They are aftermarket chrome units with zerk fittings already installed. The marking on the springer for the forging is a TC6 so late 41 early 42 according to the PDF I have of the springer identification.

Next thing is the rocker clutch. Been practicing with the "suicide", hate that term plus I will have a front brake soon, not really digging it. will see with the front brake how I do.
 
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