BDL Competitor Clutch Hub Wobble...

EDIT.. I dont have the BDL Competitor Clutch Hub..

this is how myine looks

i had mine of the gearbox (tapared shaft) this winter when i rebuildt the engine and other parts..

my plan was to change the bearing but i couldnt find any that i liked (quality)
so i just remounted it as it was.. didnt wobble at all..

have you tryed to remove the "clip" that holds the bearing and gently press it in its seat again?

maybe it have moved when you took it of the gearbox?
i had to use quite alot of force before it "popped" loose.. scared the shit out of me when it did!

dont know if that helps but thats the only thing i could think of..

good luck and i hope you solve it // Kenneth

Have you got a test gauge to do a few checks with....??



If the mainshaft check out fine, must be something up with the hub...

Perhaps the key is sitting tall or off to one side of the key-way and not letting the hub seat fully on the shaft..???

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Yes, did all of the runout tests....

-Mainshaft has .004" runout (at the threads, neck, and just aft of the keyway)
-BDL inner clutch hub bearing has .004" runout
-Clutch assembly when torqued to mainshaft (measured at O.D. of clutch basket) has ~.012" runout
-Clutch assembly when sitting on the bench (measured at O.D. of clutch basket) has ~.012" runout

I cannot measure the inner bearing surface of the clutch basket as I dont have a lathe I can bolt it to to spin it up and check the runout.

I dressed the key a few thou thinking that the key was too tall. That did virtually nothing to the runout of the assembly. The BDL inner clutch hub appears centered on shaft, and when torqued to spec doesnt cause key to move and hub just barely comes to a rest at the end of the mainshaft taper.

I mounted the inner clutch hub and then full clutch assembly, separately, to the mainshaft without the key...the runouts listed above are the same in both situations.

There still is a noticeable wobble that is now affecting clutch engagement. It was NOT there before the disassembly.

The only thing I changed in this R&R of the clutch assembly was to add an outboard mainshaft support bracket and replace a worn mainshaft seal.

Checking mainshaft runout with outboard bearing support ON and OFF...runout is still the same at .004". Unless Im crazy, it aint the mainshaft thats the problem...I think.

When I torqued my 5 finger clutch hub to the mainshaft without the clutch basket, the runout on the hub was .004". I will throw on the clutch basket and roller bearings tonight and check the runout as an assembly to see if there's still a wobble. If so, then I guess it must be the mainshaft. If not, then its the BDL inner clutch hub and bearing thats tweaked.

Any other ideas or directions? Im all ears.

Kevin,

Here's what I do to investigate keyed taper fit problems. You may already be past this point, but here it is:

Clean both tapers thoroughly with solvent.
Paint the shaft taper with layout dye and let it dry.
Assemble the parts carefully WITHOUT they key, making sure not to rotate at all.
Torque down the fastener to spec.
Remove the fastener and pull the assembly apart with the appropriate puller.
Inspect the dye markings on the shaft.

Markings should be uniform. Intermittent or uneven appearance of bare and dyed portions show poor taper fit (high spots and low spots).

For cases where problem only exists with key, do this test WITH the key installed. Bet you'll find a bunch of untouched dye around the side of the shaft that holds the key. This means the key is too tall. I've had to take upwards of .080" off some keys (maybe i used the wrong one in some cases, but they can still be made to work).

The other most common issue is deformation of the keyWAY on the shaft. The metal stands proud at the edges making a high spot and poor fit. A loose assembly can lead to this problem where the two parts move under force and waller out (technical term) the keyway. Clean it up with a file. This could still be your problem even though the oem hub fits fine. Different hubs have different features/clearances around the keyway.

Another thing that occurred to me (and maybe it's because I'm not reading clearly enough) is that the wobble is really in the shell and not in the hub. This is expected due to the bearing clearances. Is .012" reading taken at the hub or the shell? With clutch springs and pack installed, the wobble will most likely go away due to force exerted on the shell towards the inboard side of the bike.

Loose tolerances add up, sometimes not linearly. .004" TIR at shaft plus .004" at hub could easily result in .012" total when assembled. Think levers and triangles.

Anyway, some more things to think about.

Jason