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personally i wouldn't sweat the broken tab, i never use those internal case screws and once the barrels are bolted on they hold everything firm.
as for the ' bruised ' crank, hard to see how far its gone, could build up and have re machined?. is that an early or late crank?.
depending how you intend to use the bike you could go for a total loss battery system and forego the alternator, that's what i did, adhering to the old Joe Lucas adage "a gentleman doesn't motor about after dark".
 

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Discussion Starter #23
personally i wouldn't sweat the broken tab, i never use those internal case screws and once the barrels are bolted on they hold everything firm.
as for the ' bruised ' crank, hard to see how far its gone, could build up and have re machined?. is that an early or late crank?.
depending how you intend to use the bike you could go for a total loss battery system and forego the alternator, that's what i did, adhering to the old Joe Lucas adage "a gentleman doesn't motor about after dark".
Yes, I will probably give it a go with welding and machining a new key way. Its totally f¤%ked now. I have the old type of crank... bolted. I will just be zipping around here and there.... not a race bike so I think I will be OK with it.
I am not a big fan of the total lose battery system.. I would like to avoid a battery all together to be honest.
As we say here in Norway.... Joe Lucas, the inventor of darkness.

I've had one of these in my other Britbike for 20 years and am happy:

https://www.alton-france.com/generators/
Thanks Ducbsa That's is a nice looking product, looks costly.... I would need a new timing cover anything else? The bike would be cleaner with the charging tucked away in the primary thou.... BUT this is a good alternative I need to consider.

L

l
 

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Instead of chancing welding on the crank, clean up the OD then cut a new keyway in another place.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
I had a go at the crank this weekend... I decided to build up the old key way and remachine but I also decided to extend the crank with an extra 10mm (bout 3/8"). This will give the stator alittle more shaft and key way, hopefully this will keep it from happening again. It worked out well.... welded alittle at a time and keep the heat controlled. Its true within 0.02mm.... good enough for me. I'm happy about the results. :D

veiv1.jpg

veiv2.jpg

veiv3.jpg

veiv4.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #29

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Discussion Starter #30
So this look right?
....same picture just zoomed in and marked the factory marking better for you guys.

timing 1.jpg

timing 3.JPG

L
 

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Discussion Starter #32
instead of factory timing had you considered setting the timing from actual valve lift with dial gauge?.
Hello Thunderbird,
I am open for any thing. where can I find info on the procedure? It would be nice to at least do a check since this bike is a mix of parts.

L
 

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was it Stan Stephens 'Triumph Tuning'?. II'll see if I have a copy and scan.
Thought it was something Four Aces Wes would have done a video on. it would have complemented his Triumph build DVD's.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Cheers Thunderbird I appreciate it. I do have the Wes DVDs and they are great, another on the Cam Timing would have been great. I have had no luck finding anything on YouTube so far.

L
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Thanks Tri BSA, that was a good write up, I enjoyed it
I do get the picture but I an thinking this method applies more to the guys with adjustable cam wheels... where they can make small adjustments to wished degree. With us it pretty much one tooth more or less to the factory markings we are taking about.

Anybody got any Triumph specific info on this?

L
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Better late than never, think you have the info' but here specifically for Triumph , - All the best
Thunderbird.... I somehow missed this... Thanks, I'll Have a read and try to get my monkey brain to understand it.

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Discussion Starter #39
Hey Thunderbird,

That was a great article! I am eager to read the rest as it mentions the E3134 cam profile I have in the engine... Could you please....

And of course the cam wheels are "adjustable" wth the help of the two other mystery key ways I chuffed at like a fool. :eek:

learning every day...

L
 

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tried to PM you with file but too big to be attached. ( sure it could be zipped, condensed or whatever but i just don't do this tip tappity thing ). PM me your email address and i'll attach the cam timing and top end section; ps article was by Stan Shenton, Stan Stephens was a 2 str*ke tuner, if i start talking about 'stink wheels' i think that can get you banned from JJ 8D
 
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