Basket Sporty
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Joined
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571 Posts
Title's squared away?
Next step: pics!
Good luck w/ project!
-Bill
Next step: pics!
Good luck w/ project!
-Bill
Joined
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31 Posts
i'd clean everything, then put as much together as poss. to see if you've got it all.
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7,098 Posts
Clymer book!!! Do not get the Hains or Chiltons!!!
Then look at creebos postings on the trans and ask about every thing eles here....
Roach.
Then look at creebos postings on the trans and ask about every thing eles here....
Roach.
Joined
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83 Posts
+1,
Bike is stock 1980. The guy that was building it for the owner bought in multiples. If he needed one o-ring. He bought 5. The only thing I see missing is a seat. The motor is rebuilt and trans is good. Have to put some of the top on is about all. Then the stuff on frame. It does have dual disc. I thought about hardtailing it. I would need a long stretch. I'm 6'3" and fit a little weird on it. Will try and get pics today.
Joined
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214 Posts
Mock up the engine. Then start trying different looks with the available parts. You may have a real cool little scoot waiting in those boxes.
Joined
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5,193 Posts
If you're going the stretched rear section way, make sure to add a little rake in the neck also.. otherwise you will end up in the "other" thread..
(just my 0.2 cents)
Joined
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1,128 Posts
hey Pm me if you have any extra tranny gears!! I amy be able to fund a little of your build.
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6,351 Posts
Joined
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364 Posts
The first thing to do is to check for cracks in the cases by chasing down the source of fluid leaks.
Unless you're doing a complete teardown of the motor, avoid the temptation to fuck (in any way, shape, or form) with ANY of the drain plugs in the cases.
Factory tooling was badly worn by the end of the ironhead Sportster production run & the metallurgy of the period wasn't that great to begin with.
Screwing & unscrewing steel drain plugs in & out of much-softer aluminum is an exercise in masochism that will cost you dearly when one of those drain-plug holes strips it's threads out & you're forced to Mickey Mouse it by going to an over-size plug, which is guaranteed to never seal properly & eternally mock you with a constant drip-drip-drip of 60-weight.
At that point, there won't be a large-enough hammer in the world to beat yourself in the head with for having gone down that particular route.
Instead --- drain the oil out of your tank & primary, thoroughly de-grease the surrounding areas as much as possible & then seal those fuckers shut by smearing a good-sized bead of Honda/Yama/Kawa/Suzuki-Bond all around the plugs.
It'll be completely unnecessary to pull any of those plugs to drain & change either the motor oil or trans/primary fluid ever again.
Also check your rear motor mount, it's cracked on the majority of IHs out there.
Invest in a solid Pingel unit & watch your vibrations go WAY down.
My front end used to dance The Macarena at stoplights before I made the changeover.
Want to really make a major upgrade & eliminate one of the biggest pain-in-the-ass maintenance tasks?
Convert to a hydraulic clutch ( http://rjarrell77.wix.com/hyrdroclutch ) so you can shitcan the clutch cable and the dreaded/hated/despised balls & ramp clutch-release mechanism.
Since it screws into your primary cover in place of the clutch-adjustment plug, you can now yank the primary cover on a more frequent basis (this is a GOOD thing) to check the primary chain condition, chain-adjustment shoe, etc. without dreading the clutch re-adjustment afterwards.
It's a set it & forget it deal.
Unless you're doing a complete teardown of the motor, avoid the temptation to fuck (in any way, shape, or form) with ANY of the drain plugs in the cases.
Factory tooling was badly worn by the end of the ironhead Sportster production run & the metallurgy of the period wasn't that great to begin with.
Screwing & unscrewing steel drain plugs in & out of much-softer aluminum is an exercise in masochism that will cost you dearly when one of those drain-plug holes strips it's threads out & you're forced to Mickey Mouse it by going to an over-size plug, which is guaranteed to never seal properly & eternally mock you with a constant drip-drip-drip of 60-weight.
At that point, there won't be a large-enough hammer in the world to beat yourself in the head with for having gone down that particular route.
Instead --- drain the oil out of your tank & primary, thoroughly de-grease the surrounding areas as much as possible & then seal those fuckers shut by smearing a good-sized bead of Honda/Yama/Kawa/Suzuki-Bond all around the plugs.
It'll be completely unnecessary to pull any of those plugs to drain & change either the motor oil or trans/primary fluid ever again.
Also check your rear motor mount, it's cracked on the majority of IHs out there.
Invest in a solid Pingel unit & watch your vibrations go WAY down.
My front end used to dance The Macarena at stoplights before I made the changeover.
Want to really make a major upgrade & eliminate one of the biggest pain-in-the-ass maintenance tasks?
Convert to a hydraulic clutch ( http://rjarrell77.wix.com/hyrdroclutch ) so you can shitcan the clutch cable and the dreaded/hated/despised balls & ramp clutch-release mechanism.
Since it screws into your primary cover in place of the clutch-adjustment plug, you can now yank the primary cover on a more frequent basis (this is a GOOD thing) to check the primary chain condition, chain-adjustment shoe, etc. without dreading the clutch re-adjustment afterwards.
It's a set it & forget it deal.
Factory service manual
Factory Parts Manual
Don't waste your time with naything else. Even if you don't intend to keep it stock, you will know what the baseline is/was. I can't count how many times I've had my nose in both books. The parts manual is especially helpful because it has assembly drawings for the hwole bike. You don't have to guess how the parts go back together. Given that tyou bike is in boxes and you have never owned one of these, that could be a good place ot start from.
Factory Parts Manual
Don't waste your time with naything else. Even if you don't intend to keep it stock, you will know what the baseline is/was. I can't count how many times I've had my nose in both books. The parts manual is especially helpful because it has assembly drawings for the hwole bike. You don't have to guess how the parts go back together. Given that tyou bike is in boxes and you have never owned one of these, that could be a good place ot start from.
G
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