Jockey Journal Forum banner
1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Tiny Member
Joined
·
1,453 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
It's a '63, so it still has the arching backbone, rathern than the flat portion where the seat is, like w/ '65's on.

Everything is welded up. One of the axle plates was a 16th off, but some heat and love corrected that.

Questions:

1. My swingarm axle is too long and the spacers are completely wrong. My intent is to order a hardtail repop. axle, spacers, and hardware. Did this work for you?

2. On the brake backing plate (juice) the bottom stud looks to need a spacer machined to keep everythign in line, othwewise when you tighten the nut down everything gets cockeyed. Experience w/ this?

3. Were you able to use your factory swingarm horseshoe oil tank?
 

·
TI_Tuesday
Joined
·
1,247 Posts
on #2 yes, on the stud there is a spacer between the axle plate and the backing plate of the brake...its about a 1/4 inch, dont have that setup handy to measure but sizes I'm sure will vary.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,615 Posts
The only axle spacer that should be "wrong" is the R/H axle spacer, and it should be longer than you need it. You can't change any of the L/H spacing, because everything has to stack together to set the clearance between the backing plate and the drum, and you still need to space everything right on the outside of the L/H axle plate to get your ring the L/H axle adjuster pushes against, the brake sleeve nut/lockplate, and the axle nut to tighten down right.

Take the axle you have, and the R/H spacer in, and have them both shortened to what you need. The only Paughco axle that might work would be the 26B, but it's only 10 13/16" long, the other Paughco axles are as long as what you have now, or longer. That 26B axle in a stock width rigid frame only has enough length to put the chain adjuster ring on, and an axle nut.
 

·
Tiny Member
Joined
·
1,453 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Irish Rich said:
The only axle spacer that should be "wrong" is the R/H axle spacer, and it should be longer than you need it. You can't change any of the L/H spacing, because everything has to stack together to set the clearance between the backing plate and the drum, and you still need to space everything right on the outside of the L/H axle plate to get your ring the L/H axle adjuster pushes against, the brake sleeve nut/lockplate, and the axle nut to tighten down right.

Take the axle you have, and the R/H spacer in, and have them both shortened to what you need. The only Paughco axle that might work would be the 26B, but it's only 10 13/16" long, the other Paughco axles are as long as what you have now, or longer. That 26B axle in a stock width rigid frame only has enough length to put the chain adjuster ring on, and an axle nut.
Thanks Rich.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,615 Posts
satanherself said:
Please don't butcher a stepdown frame!
They aren't that rare - there were a little more than 38,000 of those frames that went into assembled motorcycles, and Harley at the time was required by law to make every production replacement part available to the public for 7 years after the model year.

Also, at that time too, it wasn't uncommon to walk into a Harley dealer in a good-sized metropolitan area, and find a factory frame table in the service area. A lot of frames were straightened, instead of being replaced. The overall survival rate of intact step-down frames was pretty good.

Think about it for a minute - why is it places like Dixie Motorcycle and Cycle Warehouse ALWAYS have "rare NOS" Pan step-down frames for sale?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
583 Posts
I have a 58 frame that I installed a Jammer hard tail section on. The old frame broke twice and was generaly a problem. I used a replcement hardtail axle kit, measured the gap on the backing plate anchor stud and made a spacer ( if it's right the wheel/brake drum will spin freely without dragging on the backing plate). The horshoe oil tank fitts just fine, stock square tanks Will Not. You will also need a new chain guard.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top