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I looked at that. I prussian blued a couple of bolts and installed them they seemed to come out clean, like they hit all the way around, but the machining of the taper seems a bit shady with lots of scored lines around them. Good call, though.
 

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I ran a Flyrite Sprotor for about 5 years, NEVER had a problem. I would at least once a month go through every nut and bolt on the bike since it was a hardtail and things rattle loose. LOCKTITE EVERYTHING!
 

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Good question. I checked one by "prussian bluing" the tapers and installing the bolts. They came out clean, but I'm not convinced. The tapers in the actual rotor sure look like they are sloppy. They have a bunch of score lines running radially around the tapers.

Also, if the bolt circle is not 100%, then the tapers will not match up and they will loosen much easier. I couldn't think of a cost effective way to ensure that they were lined up correctly. Maybe a piloted taper cutter that cuts to fit each bolt hole, sequentially? Then, you gotta worry about taper depth, if it's too low the bolts will bottom out. I really don't like the tapered bolt set up in this application, for sure.
 

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Engine braking would be about 1/100 the force seen from an actual brake, unless it was a meth head teenager TRYING to break something. Sprotors are like power,power,power, brake, brake, brake, repeat until the bolts come loose. Smart riders know that motors cost more than brake pads, and ride accordingly, anyway. When I "engine brake" it's because I am not going to slow down beyond the bottom of the gear I'm already in, and only need a tiny bit of slowing. I certainly don't haul my bike down from speed by slamming down through the gears!
Supermoto? Roadrace bike? MXer? Their sprockets take a pounding in both directions. You just have to keep a close eye on them. On the average street bike yes, but, sprotors aren't your average brake system either. I'm not defending them, the average street bike rider doesn't maintain their bike as religiously as someone who rides on a track, so apperantly there should be a huge disclaimer attached to them.
 

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same thing happened on mine. The counter sunk bolt sheared with a lock nut on the back side of the dual flange wheel hub. both pieces staid in place( the countersunk head side, and the broken bolt shank still bolted to the lock nut)
the head was loose and i caught it before it got jammed in the sprotor or bracket. I think the supplied bolts were not the proper grade.i replaced all bolts with grade * and shot peened lock nuts.
 

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BTW, those nord-locks are really cool. I didn't see any for tapers though, but I'm going to get a few and try 'em out, thanks for the link!
 

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I have never understood why anyone would want their brakes near an oily chain. Even chain wax get flung around. I just don't get it...

Custom is cool. But only if it works at least as good as what it is replacing. I'm keeping my brake rotor, it works!
 

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Supermoto? Roadrace bike? MXer? Their sprockets take a pounding in both directions. You just have to keep a close eye on them. On the average street bike yes, but, sprotors aren't your average brake system either. I'm not defending them, the average street bike rider doesn't maintain their bike as religiously as someone who rides on a track, so apperantly there should be a huge disclaimer attached to them.
I don't Claim to be an expert, But I know that when I had Dirt bikes with a Bolt on Sprocket thet were either Tie Wired or had the Metal Tabs you would bend over the Bolt head to keep bolts from backing out.

I dont do Disc brakes & would never Dream of buying one of these, But it just LOOKS like a disaster waiting to happen.

Someone else already said it but WHY would you want your brakes right next to the Chain ?
 

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Someone else already said it but WHY would you want your brakes right next to the Chain ?
Why would you cut the rear suspension off and install an antiquated rigid rear section, or remove a good hydraulic fork and install an inferior springer?
Style over function.

Bob
 

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Why would you cut the rear suspension off and install an antiquated rigid rear section, or remove a good hydraulic fork and install an inferior springer?
Style over function.

Bob
Thats a WHOLE OTHER topic, not for here.

Jimmy, glad you're ok brother. Could have been a hell of a lot worse...surviving a fall on the 826 is a feat in itself. We'll connect for that beer this week for sure... we'll be talking.
 

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Are you guy are forgetting about bolt stretch, all the Locktight, and safety wire, lock washers are not going to prevent a bolt from stretching and coming loose,
ARP bolts might help but even they can stretch a little. and is it possible that hub material might wallow in a bit and loosen things up.
if you don't check your sprocket, sprotor or even your drum bolts especially on a new build, you are asking for trouble.
A sprotor can work, they do have a reputation of coming loose more often, I just never liked all that rotor heat going into the chain.
 

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The Eixles come with countersunk bolts, but the OP's pic shows button heads, which might be his problem. There's still the fact that MOST of these have come loose, even with the supplied countersunk bolts.

Harley had issues with their front sprocket nuts loosening for quite awhile. They made a series of changes and eventually got them to stay tight. Some designs lend themselves to inherent problems, and clearly the countersunk, radial bolt pattern with continous opposing forces applied is one of those, never mind the heat and lube issues already mentioned. Add it all up and it starts to sound like a really bad idea to run these things.
 
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