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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
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So I got tired of swinging the lead hammer while truing flywheels and came up with a couple of special tools to help make it more of a finesse operation. They seem to be working pretty well so far. I've done a few sets of wheels with them and haven't broken one yet. I get the wheels to within a couple of thousandths with the hammer, and then use these for fine tuning. Pics should be self explanatory. Feel free to copy if you want.
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Table Wood Tool Hardwood Wood stain
 

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75 FX hardtail, not a project now, 77 FLH, 99 Electraglide standard
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Nice work and great idea. Home made tools are cool, and usually work, opposed to buying something that sometimes needs manipulated or adjusted to get the job done. I got a pile of various tools that were "made" for exact purposes. Won't get rid em either. But the funny thing is that I can't remember what they were all for. Lol
 

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Those three tools are the kind of nice that make you say "Of course!" -- like, why haven't they been ubiquitous among crank builders for a hundred years?

Me blabbering about the JJ archives again: There's at least one long, real good thread wherein members present their one-off homemade tools, fixtures, etc etc, for Show & Tell. It may be lurking in the wayback here on the Board, or in Tech Archives. A quick + lazy half-assed lookaround didn't bring it up (the JJ search function is super-finicky about search terms and, even after years of trying to deal with it, pretty much a mystery to me); I hope somebody finds the patience and/or luck to bring the tools thread out of retirement some day.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
nice design, looks simple and effective to use.

made this a long time ago to grip a cylinder by the bore.
i mount it between centers on a lathe to use.
i wanted a way to true up the top or bottom gasket surfaces.
it works to shorten a cylinder when adjusting for different compression heights too.

View attachment 275066

View attachment 275067
Killer! What range of bores will it work with?
 

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I like the wheel spreader. Using a wedge and a hammer always struck me as a caveman approach, even if it works. Wheel shift tool is cool too!

A couple months ago I was making new oil lines (and modifying some) for my '64 FLH and decided to conquer the flare issue once and for all. I previous has always used a common flare tool and forced them onto the fittings. Was never happy with that . . . but I improve as I get on.

Made a die set for making the correct flares. Nothing fancy, and could benefit from better finishing work but it got the job done. If I did this job frequently, I'd make a new set with what I learned.

Jason



 

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Nice. Them Weatherhead fittings are a PITA with that weird angle.
 

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I like the wheel spreader. Using a wedge and a hammer always struck me as a caveman approach, even if it works. Wheel shift tool is cool too!

A couple months ago I was making new oil lines (and modifying some) for my '64 FLH and decided to conquer the flare issue once and for all. I previous has always used a common flare tool and forced them onto the fittings. Was never happy with that . . . but I improve as I get on.

Made a die set for making the correct flares. Nothing fancy, and could benefit from better finishing work but it got the job done. If I did this job frequently, I'd make a new set with what I learned.

Jason



yes, have never seen any commercially available flare tools for those old fittings.

here's a link from the past that's in the tech pages of this forum...
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Here's another one, while it's on the bench. I have a couple of the standard bent sheet metal or thin angle iron engine stands around, and used to just grab on to hold the engine while assembling it, not really giving it any thought. Then one day when putting an engine in the frame found that the engine mounts weren't setting flat on the frame on both sides, front or rear. The case halves had twisted a few thousandths relative to each other. I figured out that this was because the aftermarket case studs do not have the fatter center section like the stock ones to act as dowel pins and align it properly. Also, sometimes the holes in old cases are enlarged from corrosion and won't self align even with the proper studs. I built this engine assembly stand to address the issue. Heavy wall stock and firmly welded together, then set on the mill and the mount pads machined and drilled to spec in one setup to ensure they are aligned. I set the loosely assembled cases in it, snug the front and rear mount bolts, and then torque the case hardware to be sure everything is properly aligned. It is also a nice check fixture to make sure the mounts aren't too worn out on old cases and to double check the machining after welding/machining a broken mount.
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