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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
A while back I asked about repairing an early Pan R case that had several cracks around the cam bushing, I decided to pass on it and wait for something else. Another early case turned up (1950), its not perfect either, but no cracks. The bearing race was dimpled/peened in place, it apparently was loose. The surrounding race and case look OK as regards cracks and basic integrity, the question is if the available oversize races will be likely to make it usable. I cant press the race out and check it before buying, but the deal is fair, and if its OK, its a good deal, if its a wall hanger or display motor part, its still not outrageously priced.

So, can anyone offer advice or thoughts on this from the poor pictures? Run like heck, jump in with both feet? I understand that the factory offered retro-fit kits or jigs to drill and tap the earlier cases to help retain the race in position, where could I get that done or rent/borrow the jig or tools? Freehand with the cordless drill in the cabin porch work OK?

The intended use is to mate to a 1984 shovel 80" left case (actually complete 1984 factory motor), and eventually pan conversion heads on shovel cylinders. its a sidecar hauler rig. Alt left case Gen R case motor?

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It also has a bit of scoring in the breather hole, theres a piece of loose crud in the pic, the scoring can be seen below it. Is it worth getting it re-lined, run it as is with regular breather, or use one of the reed valve types?

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They make .005 over races eastern machine USA made - the Jim’s races are never correct in the oversized we only buy them for odd ball repairs - that could need a .0065 over size race plus the inside is always on the small size - and it takes way longer to bring it into spec < they must farm out or no one looking at what goes on

that type of repair is on the hillbilly side of things - and i dont believe it really did anything to help the issue of the race sliding in easy - then he beat it with a hammer and punch - on top of that that race that is in the engine now has turned as the timing is off on the drip groove it should be at 12 clock not 1 o’clock - installed wrong or turned 11 hours as engine rotation is counterclockwise

the other issue you face is experience - the right case is a 3 3/16 bored jug hole that uses a 3 31/32 flywheel stroke

i get you increasing the stroke to 4 1/2 and the left case jug hole bore is 3 1/2 and both flyhwheels diameters are the same BUT — the sprocket shaft and pinion shaft left and right sides have different taper designs for the flywheels - one is commonised and one side is not - blending original same stroke flywheels can and does happen not recommended BTW but seen it come in the shop - off the top of my head at lest 4 different set ups for different years are made and they really do not interchange

after all of this and i hate typing S&S makes the block your looking to recreate and your using junk parts
 
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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Thanks!

The case cylinder hole size is different from a 1950 74" to a 1984 80"?

I have a complete running 1984 FXS with original motor, Im wanting to use as much of the original motor parts as possible to make the R case swap. A pinion shaft that works with the R case bearing wont fit my 1984 oem 80" R flywheel?

Ive looked for decent R cases, 58-69 being optiomal for ease of conversion, but the ones Ive seen in decent shape went pretty high. My budget is somewhat modest.

I know S&S makes the type case combination Id like to build, but it would be more interesting to have original all H-D motor cases. Ive thought about getting an S&S case set and just using the R case with my left (1984 has the VIN on the left case), then selling the leftover S&S left case or using it for a display motor, but an original H-D case would be my first choice if I can find a decent and workable one.

I expected the race was junk, I didnt know if it looked like the case is salvageable and clean up for an oversize race. In googling, there seem to be races up to .015 oversize. I dont know the quality or eaxct make, I was looking to see what was available that may save the case.
 

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You will have many of the same issues as you would have with that cracked case. Pinion shaft race, inner and outer diameters. This one would scare me because of all the punch marks around the pinion race. The cast in iron insert is pretty thin on 57 and older and thinner yet on 54 and older. There were lots of little detail changes in the right case castings for the first 10 years of panheads. They added material here and there when problems popped up. Problems like the cracks around the cam bushing. The set screws they added to help hold the pinion race was running production fix that really didn't work so well.

Here's a pic of a cracked iron insert after case welding around the cam bush, Note where it cracked the iron... right at the set screw location...
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This is another 53 case half with no cracks. Note the thickness of the iron insert and how much aluminum surrounds the cam and pinion area...
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Now here is a 57 and note the same area, thicker insert and more aluminum support around the pinion and cam...
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If you are using a left case half from a late shovelhead to blend into a generator right case half, use a 58 or later case half. The 58 and later up to 69 pinion race will accept the same shovel pinion shaft you have.

Oiling will present it's challenges with the conversion but that's a subject for a later date...
 

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74 inch pans share the same case bore diameter as 80 inch shovels.

Keep in mind generator case engines are side oiling on the pinion shaft, after 72 all were end oiling. It's only one oiling hole right? Drill one or replace the shaft... not so fast... Hard shafts and the wheel taper changed in 81... So a 72 or older pinion shaft will not fit into 81 and later flywheels...

Oh, blending oem and S&S case halves, good luck with that.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Well, its looking again like waiting for a better part, like a 58-69 R case is a better idea. Thanks for all the info everyone.

Eastern shows oversize races up to .040", but at this point, Im not sure it matters. To save an old motor, sure, to try to use a part thats not quite right for a project frankenmotor, perhaps not the best idea and use of time and money.

BTW, anyone have ideas where to look for a junk parts to build a display motor? Dead, junk parts, cylinders and heads, gen cam cover, timer. It will be just an empty shell that can look good on a stand in the living room or shop. I havent seen any on the usual places to look for used parts.
 
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