Jockey Journal Forum banner
1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
163 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a '68 Bonneville with twin Amal 930's. After having the Lund Machine re-sleeve treatment done and considerable futzing to get the jetting, mixture etc. correct it is run pretty darn well. The only problem is I know the float level is still too low. After several attempts to adjust the float level via the standard recommended method, I'm convinced the brass seats are bottomed out in against the float bowl and can be adjusted down no further. Given some of the purported weirdness with Amal production around 1968 I'm almost wondering if it's got the wrong floats and as such have been thinking about just replacing them.

As I mentioned before, it's running pretty well but it takes several kicks to start because the ticklers aren't really priming effectively. Anyone ever see this problem before?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
68 Posts
On the float bowl gasket there are two ninety degree corners that you should take a razor to and cut off. Basically "snip" the corners so (see pic)...without this the gasket can sometimes cause the float to not seat proper.....I have always done it as a precaution....maybe its a wives tale.....but I still do it.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,085 Posts
Hmmmm...now this is interesting.... I have 930's as well, and I actually have to pump the ticklers a bit to get my stinkfinger.. then its one kick. I got some other issues but i would like to hear if anyone else does this snipping of the gasket...first I heard of this..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,743 Posts
How do you check the float level with the carbs apart, holding the float pivot with your fingers, or with the gasket in place, then turned upside-down? It makes a difference.

On my old carbs you had to pump the ticklers, holding them in didn't work as the throw wasn't quite long enough to be able to just hold the tickler down and let gas flood in.

The info you linked to re float height is great, are you heating your float bowl with a torch or hot water? Get it nice and hot and that brass seat should move down with some firm whacks with a drift and hammer, use hardwood drift to keep from marring your brass seat

Tyler
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
68 Posts
as I pour myself another rye and ginger to help my head cold I can say all I have ever done is put the football in place with the pin and the float, hold it with my fingers, tip the bastard over and make sure that the float passes the edge of the beautiful pot steel bowl about 1/8 of an inch and is evenly spaced all the way around....without the gasket in place.....if so, great, then snip the gasket so those corners do not interfere (or not) and put back together.....have always done it this way and never fails....well...except that one time the float I was using actually had a pinhole in it and keep filling up with fuel...I like Amals cause they are simple and its cheap to have a lot of extra Amal parts around. Tickler ain't working, throw another body on it and go within 10 minutes...anyway, off topic now...sorry...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
163 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I was checking them holding the pivot with my fingers upside-down. I have no doubt they are a little too low.

I turned a little drift that sat just right in the seat so I wouldn't booger it up. I tried heating it in boiling water and with a shrink tubing gun. It was pretty apparent it wasn't gonna move without something breaking. It really felt to me like it was simply bottomed out.

If you watch this video the seat is just moving with a tap, not the case with mine. I wish I had a pile of Amal parts to dig through...
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top