[1ironhead]

PO shaved the forks on the Ironhead.1 is OK,the other,not so good.Will bondo stick to aluminum ? Will powdercoat stick to bondo ? I got 2 unmolested lowers,but would like to keep them that way as spares.Thanks.

B Bob

 

[TurboRoadster]

powder has to be baked, bondo not happy.
That being said, I use JB Weld original formula (red/white tubes) it sands easy and doesnt mind the bake cycle during powder.
prep and clean properly before the jb stage and all will be well in the world.

 

[ckunsman89]

yep, you have to use the original jb weld. The jb qwik has a lower temperature rating and will sometimes bubble when heated during the powdercoat process. Stick with the original jb weld and deal with the long cure time before sanding and you'll be good to go.

 

[bustedlifter]

here:http://www.eastwood.com/usc-all-metal-2-1-lb.html

 

[Ironhead-Slim]

JB weld would be your best bet like they said, let them know though that it's on there so they can adjust their ovens, some of them run hotter from what I've seen. I don't know what the max temp is for JB. Also, there is a lead free body filler that you can powder coat, it may not be the easiest to use but its good for tanks and what not. Good luck!

 

[1ironhead]

Thanks for the input.I also have these aluminum repair rods you use a propane torch on.Of coarse I was hoarding those too.I probably have enough "spare" and "saved" stuff to fund a good build.

 

[Unkl Ian]

Lab Metal will stand up to the necessary temp.

 

[Finnrodder]

How bad they are?
Maybe some lathe work could help you or filling the bad spots by welding,just a thought.I've never used anything bondo related stuff with the powdercoating.

 

[sandergecko]

+1 on the alu repair rods. I use those a lot.

 

[Swan]

I use high temperature Lab Metal as a filler prior to powder coat