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The oil pressure switch is a taper thread 1/8X27 and if you use glue dont care who’s glue - the taper will crack as its about side load - straight thread maybe in a pinch on the side of the road
 
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While I'm in the weld it up camp. I have used HTS 2000 on similar repairs on equipment. Only practise a little before you go for it,
 

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I'm wondering if Devcon 10270 Stainless Steel Putty would be of use in repair & build it all up with it then paint it over, I have used it a lot in Glass bedding a target Rifles & it is damn tough & takes impact about as well as anything could & is machinable just like steel when cured, I believe it has a 2 ton breaking point which is pretty good.... anyone here used it or any of the Steel or Aluminum Devcons ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
I'm wondering if Devcon 10270 Stainless Steel Putty would be of use in repair & build it all up with it then paint it over, I have used it a lot in Glass bedding a target Rifle & it is damn tough & takes impact about as well as anything could & is machinable ust like steel when cured, I believe it has a 2 ton breaking point which is pretty good.... anyone here used it or any of the Steel or Aluminum Devcons ?
Yes we had a motor shop, have used devcon to repair cylinder heads in the past only as a owner request (all race related though) My concern with using an epoxy is that it feeds the oil pressure gauge mounted on the rocker box thats a lot of constant vibration for a aluminum thread.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
The oil pressure switch is a taper thread 1/8X27 and if you use glue dont care who’s glue - the taper will crack as its about side load - straight thread maybe in a pinch on the side of the road
Pretty much my thoughts also, there is no rush with this repair only picked up this motor with a nice full top and bottom end build cheap because of this damage figured it was worth salvaging, also picked up a set of cases so I guess its spit the thing time after I finish all the other projects.
 

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I will try to explain it one last time, maybe I'm not so good at that...

This is a pic of an empty 90's evo crankcase half. I poked a zip tie tail into the oil sender passage at the angle it goes into the case. You will note the deeper it gets from the top surface, the thicker the material is around the passage. If you will also note the small drilled hole in the cam cover gasket surface. That passage is what the sender hole is aimed at, the two passages intersect each other. You will maybe note it's about two inches below the sender surface as well.

272579


In this pic you may note that is just about the thickest part on the case half, more material thickness than any other place.

272580


If you would take a dremel tool or a die grinder, whatever you have and remove a slight amount of material where I circled with a pencil in this pic. Remove just enough to get the top surface of the passage square with the hole. By what your first pic shown, you will have maybe will have one or two threads at the new top of the hole after it's squared back up. If not, it don't matter much because you need to run an 1/8"X27 pipe thread tap into that hole. The tap is tapered and will follow the drilled passage if there is a thread or two remaining or not. A remaining thread would be nice to aim for starting the tap yes, but again not 100% necessary.

272581


To me, a bit of hand carving and then spin a tap in then some clean up time... I know I have done this job before in about a half hour tops.

It has to be easier doing as above than stripping, cleaning, welding, machining, cleaning again, assembling with the added costs of gaskets, rings and whatever else... I know how I would do it, just like I show here. It's not a hard job, don't turn it into one...
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
I will try to explain it one last time, maybe I'm not so good at that...

This is a pic of an empty 90's evo crankcase half. I poked a zip tie tail into the oil sender passage at the angle it goes into the case. You will note the deeper it gets from the top surface, the thicker the material is around the passage. If you will also note the small drilled hole in the cam cover gasket surface. That passage is what the sender hole is aimed at, the two passages intersect each other. You will maybe note it's about two inches below the sender surface as well.

View attachment 272579

In this pic you may note that is just about the thickest part on the case half, more material thickness than any other place.

View attachment 272580

If you would take a dremel tool or a die grinder, whatever you have and remove a slight amount of material where I circled with a pencil in this pic. Remove just enough to get the top surface of the passage square with the hole. By what your first pic shown, you will have maybe will have one or two threads at the new top of the hole after it's squared back up. If not, it don't matter much because you need to run an 1/8"X27 pipe thread tap into that hole. The tap is tapered and will follow the drilled passage if there is a thread or two remaining or not. A remaining thread would be nice to aim for starting the tap yes, but again not 100% necessary.

View attachment 272581

To me, a bit of hand carving and then spin a tap in then some clean up time... I know I have done this job before in about a half hour tops.

It has to be easier doing as above than stripping, cleaning, welding, machining, cleaning again, assembling with the added costs of gaskets, rings and whatever else... I know how I would do it, just like I show here. It's not a hard job, don't turn it into one...
Yes thanks for that I got it now and I appreciate the advice and the time taken to give it, definitely save me a lot of time and all makes sense.
 
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