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Just a quick question as the "knuckleheads" around me seem to know it all except a solution to my dilemma at hand. I was hoping somone on this kick-ass website could take a minute to answer a quick question. I let my 92 evolution Fat boy sit for three months and now when I turn it over it pumps all the oil out the overflow hose onto the ground.I was told it bypassed the check valve and is normal.However the more oil I add just ends up back on the ground. Is the check valve fucked up? If so where is it? IF this question seems lame well maybe it is, yet the fact remains. Thanks for reading this got any ides?
 

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No dumb questions mate. Could be the check valve is stuck open with a piece of crud or the spring is broken. It is located on the oil pump under a screw cap. Is not normal to pump all the oil out, is should stop after a reasonable amount of time. Was your oil bag completely empty? If so, it would have to pump all that oil out of the engine before it stops puking. Do yourself a favor and get a service manual for your bike. Hope this helps, good luck.
 

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If my memory serves me correct, wasn't the checkball/spring an issue on early 90'- mid 90s Evo pumps? I remember my pops having to change his twice on his '95 FL in one year. It had the same symptoms.

...however, if your's was okay prior to the 3 month hibernation I'd take the pump off, clean and inspect. Prob just boogered up with something.
 

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Your bike has "wet sumped" I'll bet there is a thread on how to fix it. Don't take your pump off! It is somewhat normal. It happens when a bike sits for a while, or gets moved on a trailer. Don't add any more oil. If you look in the tank and can see some oil your ok to run that machine to get the crank case pumped out. With the bike running look into the oil tank and watch it fill up. After a short time running the oil will stop coming out of the breather.
 

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Drain your engine from the bottom shouldn't be more than a cup or so normally. If it has alot more its been sumping. The ball is not always stuck . My 95 hd and another s&s used to do it over winter I wpuld just drain the motor add the oil to the oilbag again and run it. Never had to do anything with the. Pump. It would stop pukeing after alittle bit. You can try it first anyway.
 
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If this motor was cranked up every few days, you wouldn't see this problem..
Oil bleeds past the check ball and fills the lower end up with oil...When it fires up, only one place it can go....Out the crank-case vent...

There are a few ways to fix this.



Cut a new seat....
Or take two 3/8 balls and give them a small tap.
Or take a Evo push rod and a bit of lapping compound and lap a new seat...

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Some good advice here ^^^

My '86 would let a cup or so go if I let it sit for more than 2 weeks.. after about a cup, it would stop.
 

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If this motor was cranked up every few days, you wouldn't see this problem..
Oil bleeds past the check ball and fills the lower end up with oil...When it fires up, only one place it can go....Out the crank-case vent...

There are a few ways to fix this.



Cut a new seat....
Or take two 3/8 balls and give them a small tap.
Or take a Evo push rod and a bit of lapping compound and lap a new seat...
Dang Jesse, you got all the good stuff!! :)
 

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If the check valve ball/seat/spring are ok, you might have a worn crankcase breather valve. I believe in early Evos these were made from a hard plastic, which obviously makes them prone to wearing out, and then oil can escape past it.

I've got a similar problem to you with my '84 Evo (although not as bad), so will be looking at the breather valve as an upcoming winter project.
 

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I'd be willing to bet the breather valve is okay and it just bled through the check ball. What I do is go get TWO new check balls from the H-D dealer as Jesse (dragstews) says. First, I take the one that's in the bike and throw it away. Then I put a new one in and using a drift and a small hammer I give it a moderate smack to re-form the seat. Then I throw that ball away as well. Last, I put the second new ball in place and live happily ever after. I've done it a bunch. It's never failed me yet.
 

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Make sure your oil tank isn't completely dry, doesn't need much oil, just enough to make sure the pump isn't dry. Throw a drain pan under your breather tube. Crank it up and run it until the oil coming out slows down to a drip. Double check the oil level in the tank (should be close to full now). Ride the bike around the block a couple of time. Check your oil again and your done until the next time you let it set for too long.

I guess that if your breather tube is tied into your air cleaner you're gonna have to reroute it under the bike (like it should be to start with) until you pump the oil back to the tank or out in the pan.

I'm gonna bet that half the Harleys ever built will wet sump if you let them set long enough. For me, it's a chararacteristic of the bikes. I've learned to live with it.
Larry T
 

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My bike does this, it's not uncommon when an EVO has sat for a while (check valves leak) , and Roach hipped me to how to deal with it easily. Don't try to start it, you'll just foul the plugs. Pull the spark plugs (so you don't burn out your starter), pull the oil cap, and crank it over to refill the oil bag.
 

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I'd be willing to bet the breather valve is okay and it just bled through the check ball. What I do is go get TWO new check balls from the H-D dealer as Jesse (dragstews) says. First, I take the one that's in the bike and throw it away. Then I put a new one in and using a drift and a small hammer I give it a moderate smack to re-form the seat. Then I throw that ball away as well. Last, I put the second new ball in place and live happily ever after. I've done it a bunch. It's never failed me yet.
I call this the field expedient method and it works about 80% of the time. That said, just because it wet sumped doesn't automatically mean that there is anything wrong that needs to be "fixed" It is a characteristic of a dry sump system. It might never do it again...
 
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Think I have an idea with what he is saying.....

By pulling the plugs will let the starter spin the motor over fast and will allow the return gears in the pump to pull out what oil has leak into the camchest..

The problem with that thinking is.....
The camchest is flooded with super amount of oil....If the motor is a bottom breather (Pre-93) the oil/air cavity that does the air/oil separator will also be full....Hence even when cranking over at starter speed....Oil still has no choice but to be expelled out of the crank-case vent....The downward push of the pistons will pressurize the cam chest and the cavity....

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I agree with the checkball and the wetsumping solutions. But reading the exact verbage of your question leads me to another and overlooked problem. You said that it pumps ALL the oil out through the crankcase vent. If that's really what's happening, it could be the woodruff key on the return side of the pump has been sheard. If that's the case, oil gets pumped into your engine but because it can't be pumped back out, it accumulates in the bottom end to be pushed via crankcase pressure through the vent line.

Usually, wetsumping due to sitting for awhile will clear out after the bike's spit out a cup or so of oil. Depending on how long it's sat. But the point it, it will quit and once has cleared out shouldn't continue to puke oil. My recommendation is to make sure oil is returning to the tank. if it is, then it's the check ball as mentioned by others, if not, it's the return side of the pump, or possible breather problems.

Good Luck and report back! I had a similar problem when I was a punk kid an a shovel/pan and it drove me nuts until I discovered the solution which was a result of a mistake I made when I put the pump on...
 

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Think I have an idea with what he is saying.....

By pulling the plugs will let the starter spin the motor over fast and will allow the return gears in the pump to pull out what oil has leak into the camchest..
Correct.

The problem with that thinking is.....
The camchest is flooded with super amount of oil....If the motor is a bottom breather (Pre-93) the oil/air cavity that does the air/oil separator will also be full....Hence even when cranking over at starter speed....Oil still has no choice but to be expelled out of the crank-case vent....The downward push of the pistons will pressurize the cam chest and the cavity....
I didn't know this was different on pre-93 models. Maybe he can plug his breather line and try it? Least resistance again then isn't it? Took about 4 or 5 10 second crank overs to refill my bag this way.
 

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Fatty,

My '91 would do the same thing after sitting all winter. I would start it until the motor was warm, shut it down, start it back up. Would not leak for the rest of the season. Not uncommon for those years. If I remember correctly, eventually changed the check ball and spring.
 
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