[berub9a2]

Hello all,

Ive been trying to diagnose if it is my stator or regulator that is causing my bike not to charge.

Here is what i have tested so far, I've been trying to read the manual but electrics have never been my thing.

With the bike running i unplug the stator to regulator connector and put my multimeter on AC into the stator connector terminals, with the bike at idle i get around 15 volts and upwards of 40 when i rev her up.

The part i am confused with is the test where they say to switch over to ohms and place the leads on the stator terminal. With my multi-meter on the 200 ohms setting i get 3.3. The manual says it should read .2-.4, did i have my meter on the wrong setting or is my stator bad?

Also if it is the stator do i need the clutch tool to do this job?

 

[berub9a2]

Additional info:

I took off the wire from the regulator to the breaker, started the engine, then with the multi on dc and one stick on the neg battery terminal and the other on the wire from the regulator it was reading around 1.2-1.5 volts.

 

[Guest]

Your meter should be on the RX1 scale for checking the stator resistance...when measured across the stator pins...

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[berub9a2]

hmmmm RX1....

This is the unit i am working with, am i blind or i shouldda coughed up the extra few dollars for the unit with more button???

 

[Guest]

Well.....Think I will share my opinion on the late 84-90 charging system..
Bare with me for a moment on this...

Being the rotor is in the clutch basket, it turns at a slower speed then the crank does...
In 91 when the 5-speed motor came about it was moved to the motor sprocket shaft an in the same design of the 70-up Big Twins...

Here is the problem with that design.....The air-gap...With the walk that comes into the basket from a weak bearing that Harley installed, makes for the amp output to be low...This occurs with high mileage on stockers

There is an up-grade that can be machined into the stock clutch basket...A bigger bearing can be in place to keep the walk out.

To see max amp output (About 23.0 amps) The air-gap needs to be close but not digging on the pull side....

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[Friday]

does that digital meter buzz when on 200 ohm ,when the 2 probes are touching ? that lets you know theres a short contact between the 2 so if you measure the stator and it buzzez then the coil is sweet.

IF ..you touch 1 end of the stator touch the motor case and theres a buzz that tells you theres a conductive path thru the stator to motor , to the other probe...that tells you the stator is stuffed.

IF you measure stator on 20k, 200k ,2M and theres a high number that means its open ..broken circuit.=stuffed.

measure volts on 20 v not 2 v . thats got a 10 amp fuse and the leads have to be swapped when ever current is measured. theyre fast acting fuses and they are toast is a micro second.

 

[DarkGoat]

Good AC output and the stator not grounded means....bad regulator. When the MOCO says .2 to .4 ohms what they mean is that there must be continuity. Every meter has some oddness to it. If you understand what you are checking conceptually you can overcome the unfamiliarity with your meter. Incidentally, the big problem with those rotors was the magnets coming loose, and when you find that a new rotor costs 400+ dollars a guy might try and experiment with some glue. Back to your meter, when checking for continuity you should use the lowest ohm setting the meter provides. It looks like on your unit that it would be "200" Test this out by touching the leads together and it should read close to zero. 3.3 ohms in this situation I would call good. All you need to do is check from one stator lead to ground and see if you get continuity. Yes means bad stator no means bad regulator(or wiring) DO NOT FORGET battery cables.

 

[dillweed]

i have a 90 sporty and i had the same problem. the rotor magnets ground up in stator. soo dont be surprised if you pull the cover off and theirs magnet shaving everywhere....

 

[Guest]

Incidentally, the big problem with those rotors was the magnets coming loose, and when you find that a new rotor costs 400+ dollars a guy might try and experiment with some glue.

The aftermarket has been making the 84-90 clutch basket and rotor with encased magnets (Held in place by a stainless steel non-magnetic insert)...These are well made, but do still have the smaller bearing which being new will work well for a long time until wear does take it's toll...

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[berub9a2]

All you need to do is check from one stator lead to ground and see if you get continuity. Yes means bad stator no means bad regulator(or wiring) DO NOT FORGET battery cables.

Thank you, I will try this out in a few minutes.

I did see that the regulator appears to have been replaced.

When i pulled it off to clean the units grounding upon the frame i see it has an Accel lifetime warranty tag on it.

Up[email protected]@@@@

Upon testing for continuity between each stator connector and ground the meter didn't change. So it appears it is not grounded.

The stators AC output is correct while running.
But testing ohms between both stator connectors results in a reading way out of spec. I get 3.3 where manual states .2-.4 ohms.

I guess I will try a replacement regulator first.

Most likely the P.O. knew it wast charging and just tried the cheapest fix... Now i know to test the charging system if i ever buy another used bike.

How big a deal is it to replace the stator? Can this be done with without any special tools?

 

[azironhead]

You have to pull the primary off and the clutch out. I'm not sure if you'll need a tool to compress the clutch or not. Other than that just hand tools and snap rings if I remember correctly. Shouldn't be to bad.

 

[Destralo Roach]

You need the spring clutch tool to compreas the spring, other wise, yeah, get the seald basket........

....Roach.

 

[dillweed]

and its only snap rings to take off the rotor. the clutch stays nice in there and you just pull it out.

(i can send you a manual over the intra-net if you want)

 

[DarkGoat]

Check one last thing...regulator must have a good ground to work.

 

[berub9a2]

Check one last thing...regulator must have a good ground to work.

I removed the regulator and scrubbed the back with a steel brush to clean it up, and re-installed it.

After I checked to see if it would grounded properly, with on probe on the regulator and one on the neg battery terminal, i got a reading of about .01 or .1.

Is that properly grounded?

Looking around it appears its pretty simple to remove the clutch basket to get to the stator. Is it really as simple as remove the snap ring at the clutch basket, install a "door hinge" or something to lock the sprockets up and remove the engine bolt?

My clymer manual doesn't tell me if its righty tighty or righty loosey for the engine bolt, anyone know?

Ill prob pull it apart this weekend and hope the basket isn't eff'd and replace the stator and regulator together, parts don't seem to expensive.

 

[DarkGoat]

That's a good ground...sprocket shaft is right handed. Sounds like a bad regulator. You probably don't need to go in the primary.

 

[aygraha]

Just wondering how you made out. Ive got the same problem on a 98 xl now .Battery is not charging and only reading 11 v.

 

[berub9a2]

Here is an update.

The tests the I preformed showd that the stator was good but had high resistance when tested between both pins. Since it wasn't frounded and the ac output good I got a new regulator.

Picked up a good deal on NOS unit on the bay. Just installed it this afternoon, but of course the battery was too dead to turn her over. After giving her a quick charge she fired up and appeared to be charging normally. High 12's at idle and 14's when reved.


Thanks everyone for your help.