Jockey Journal Forum banner
41 - 60 of 62 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,703 Posts
An earlier flatty bottom/ohv top. Three valves per cylinder, looks like.
Are my eyes deceiving me, Or do I see to zorts per head? 2 zorts 1 intake 3V?

That engine is just fucken cool! rear brake on the bars too?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,804 Posts
Govmule, I dunno; it's as likely, I suppose, to be two exh ports diverging from one valvehole. But three-valve singles were top English sports bikes in the thirties, so maybe Koslow took a page from Rudge, Velo, et al.?

I also don't recall whether those singles had individual actuators for their dual exh valves or just one between them, and I am too idle to go find out.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,804 Posts
Gettin' far afield. Sorry I initiated the detour.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
933 Posts
Discussion Starter · #45 · (Edited)
I HAVE A REQUEST FOR THE FORUM:
1) If anyone has some stroker shovelhead or Ironhead manifolds on hand, please give me an ID and measurement across back of the manifold spigots. (See last pic)

Finally some real progress. Admittedly I'm far behind the schedule I originally set, but I got distracted with a more stockish 45U, So I'm dividing my time.

-The cases needed new bearing races, and that was a first for me and terrifying for fear of cracking the cases. then lapping to fit new bearings is an insanely time-consuming process. I ended up with standard rollers on the pinion, and plus .0004" in rollers on the sprocket shaft

-I finished knocking out the baffles in the cases to allow for the piston travel

-I've had to do a final check on clearances for everything from the cams in the case, everything on the crank, generator gear lash, and cam end play.

-I finished the tappet block drain holes through the cases. And I also found that the generator strap screw hole went all the way through to the cylinder stud hole, so I epoxy that shut to keep oil out. Something that makes me now wonder about mysterious oil leaks on all the early motors I've had

-still lots of work to do, but next I have to degree the new cams, and I may make some breather modifications at the same time.

I did run into a significant hiccup, but I made the decision to gamble on whether it will work. I failed to notice initially that the deck height on the side valve cases is significantly higher than the OHV cases, So my stock oil return hole in the shovelhead cylinder from the heads actually crosses into the path (but not above) of the oil rings on the piston. Without any significant design change, there's no easy way to resolve that. So after consulting other engine builders and manufacturers, I'm going to run it as is and see if the oil will simply drain through the stock slots in the piston.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
422 Posts
good to see progress.

I have no manifolds on hand but guess making one will be easier than finding one that fits. Looks like yours is iron, the same can be found in aluminum that is easier to cut and weld on.

Oil ring passes into the cylinders top end drain opening, that is going to be a problem. Stroker pans and shovels and even stock stroke engines with KB hypereutectic cast pistons will place the oil rings into the drains and the oil smoke show begins. It's an easy fix on shovels or pans, but yours, not so easy. I would consider the option of outside top end oil drains starting at the heads.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
933 Posts
Discussion Starter · #47 · (Edited)
Oil ring passes into the cylinders top end drain opening, that is going to be a problem.
Dan- I get the reasoning behind why it could be problematic, but I also can understand why it might be OK since the cylinder drain hole doesn't actually extend to the top oil ring. If it did, I wouldn't even think about it.

Have you actually seen a motor run in this configuration? I'm inclined to give it a go, since I haven't found anyone that's said they've seen a motor run in this scenario.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
933 Posts
Discussion Starter · #48 · (Edited)
cam timing night. I'll be honest this math twists my head. I used a printed online application that adjusts everything based on the specs you enter=lifesaver. I printed it and glued it to some foam backing board that I could easily affix to the pulley. My tappet studs are cupped for pushrods, so I used a razor blade on top avoid deflection of the dial indicator in the cup. I'll send the cams back to the manufacturer for final adjustment and welding (I know my limits).
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
933 Posts
Discussion Starter · #50 ·
Cams officially timed and welded by the great folks at Zippers performance who graciously agreed to work with me on this endeavor (redshift cams. highly recommend them and their products. If you don't know, look them up).

Scavenger pump cover fitting angled to clear the frame for Cala's Performance kit. He has a great video about the process, if you google it. I ran into a snag and the casting broke, so I chose to braze it all together, instead of buying/breaking another, and still worrying about how it would seal.

I'm waiting on thicker cam shims and an oil pump gasket before buttoning up the lower end.

I still have to do a manifold, oil feed line, pushrods, covers, and weld the rocker boxes to fit them. And then do the endplay on the rockers. After that, motor goes in the frame.
 

Attachments

·
Moderator
Joined
·
4,039 Posts
Man, I woulda been sweating (see what I did there?) the oil pump break. Good save.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
933 Posts
Discussion Starter · #52 · (Edited)
IT'S RUNNING! Video here.

For the non-social media folks, the moment that we've all been waiting for. First time running for this first ever 80-in Magnum motor (of this specific configuration anyways). It sounds amazing: crisp, and smooth. It was however a bitch to start, but think that's a carb problem. And the clutch and trans are turning out to be more trouble than they are worth. So for now they are just hooked up enough so I could start the motor, but I may just swap everything out for a 4-speed. Unfortunately I blew out my leg kicking it, so it may be a little bit before I get to start it and check more stuff.
As a reminder, Custom @zippersperformance cams, 80" Evo style truett flywheels cut down to flathead size, modified shovelhead 80" top end, @calashighperformance oil pumps, and TONS of my own planning and labor.
  1. Oil pressure looked good at the top end.
  2. Oil didn't pour out of the custom pushrod tube seals, but I won't know if they really work until more run time
  3. Breather dumped some oil, but I think that was just oil I filled the dry cam chest with, per the manual.
  4. Custom oil lines dont seem to be leaking, but time will tell.
  5. Belt alignment is miraculously not bad.
  6. No crashing\clanking, so that's good.
  7. No oil squirting out from places it shouldn't, also good.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,804 Posts
Arga warga! Congratulations and a gold star for craziness!

When you have nothing better to do, could I/we see some still pics of the finished engine please? Never mind, I see they're linked in your post #1!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
933 Posts
Discussion Starter · #54 ·
Here's some pics of the:
  • Oil pumps
  • Generator with cycle electric regulator added, 1/4"-24 helicoils, fresh seals+bearing, and cleaned up commutator
  • TIG welding and remachining pushrod seals in the rocker boxes
  • Heads needed spring collars for the lift in the cams
  • S&s 222 length manifold.
  • I had to come up with a way to not only hold the pushrod tubes in the tappets blocks, but also to seal. And I didn't want to modify the originals. I came up with a design that someone put in CAD for me, then I had them 3D printed. Fingers crossed....
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
933 Posts
Discussion Starter · #55 · (Edited)
  1. I made an oil feed line for the rockers. I didn't want rubber or a bunch fittings. I also moved the feed holes to the understand of each intake rocker.
  2. Built my own pushrods with a chromoly cut to length kit from Zippers Performance
  3. Breather timing. Right or wrong, I applied the specs from the s&s manual for breather timing on XL models, and then used @vardhalla/victory library method for slotting the gear rather than the S&S method of using shims on the pinion shaft to adjust opening, and then grinding the housing closing side. Fingers crossed.
  4. Made exhaust from a paughco side by side kit, and a flathead squish pipe from Gas box. And hidden mounts using the toolbox mount.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
933 Posts
Discussion Starter · #56 · (Edited)
stock S&S air cleaners are so boring to me (no offense to anyone running one), and I always run an air cleaner, so I had to come up with something.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
933 Posts
Discussion Starter · #57 · (Edited)
The 6 speed was too shiny and modern. YES I know the lack of a bearing support is not ideal, but this whole bike is experimental, and I'm willing to live with premature issues
  1. Added kicker.
  2. Rear sprocket was 1/2" offset PBI (I think), which lined up well with the drum brake.
  3. Trimmed the e-start side of the trans case down to look more like a 4 speed. then blasted/scuffed everything to blend it in.
  4. Bent the kicker arm so it was closer to the bike.
  5. Replaced the 5th mount stud with a bolt, so you can slide the trans in under the oil tank. That required helicoiling the 7/16" hole down to 3/8".
  6. Using Paughco's trans plate, but I had to add a hole to fit the narrow 36-57 trans mount.
  7. The frame\Oil tank boss also required a little relieving to move the transmission far enough forward for the belt drive.
And I made a little stainless shifter.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
933 Posts
Discussion Starter · #58 · (Edited)
Tanks: I could find anything that I liked and wasn't willing to cut the frame tabs. I always like the option of a pogo seat. I also wanted tanks large enough to run the stripes on.

I ended up doing alot of modifications to lowbrow WX tanks, including stripe and emblem mounts. Out of the box, they just sit way too high in the back for my liking (I understand why they have to be that way though). Ideally, they'd sell the tanks with the brackets un-welded, then people could do whatever they want.
  1. I cut the mounts off and reattached them when I got the tank sitting how I like it.
  2. For the rear mounts, I welded on threaded bungs.
  3. The tanks are made with a wide overlap, so it was an easy job to trim the centers to allow for a pogo-seat T. The dash area is just aesthetic, but it would be cool to make a scaled down dash to fit that space.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
933 Posts
Discussion Starter · #59 · (Edited)
I didn't want rubber oil lines, and stock wouldn't fit. I modified a flaring tool to match the early HD flares, then used 3/8" aluminum tubing.

Had to do some cleanup and massaging of the aftermarket oil tank and tray.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
933 Posts
Discussion Starter · #60 · (Edited)
Seat mount, battery mounting and some wiring.
  1. I turned down some steel tubing to fit the seat post, an also threaded it to take an NPT plug, so it's a little stash tube as well. The top had a threaded hole, so you can bolt any seat bracket to it that you can make.
  2. Seat is an ugly aftermarket panhead seat pan that I trimmed down (but it's rececessed to fit stock 6V batteries and such), and New Church Moto did an amazing job upholstering it. It was supposed to go on my '48 Pan, but I ended up using a pogo, so it's been sitting on the shelf for 2 years.
  3. I like the little 5.5Amp AGM batteries. They're cheap and easy to get. But mounting them always requires a little creativity.
 

Attachments

41 - 60 of 62 Posts
Top