79 ironhead oil pump question

6557 Views 17 Replies 9 Participants Last post by martyp, Jan 27, 2012

martyp

Discussion Starter · Jan 17, 2012

Hey guys

I took out the oil pump for inspection while my cylinders are away being rebored and all the oil is drained out. It looks to be working fine and i re-fitted it last night with a new gasket.

Is it necessary to run a bit of oil through the pump first by cranking the motor by hand before starting it up? Or can i just screw it back in, attach the hoses, fill the oil tank as usual and start her right up.

New pistons werent cheap and i dont want to do another top end rebuild too soon after this one. I know that 79 onwards iheads dont need the pump timed.

1 - 18 of 18 Posts

JohnnieA

· #2 · Jan 17, 2012

I remove the plugs, unscrew the sender from the front of the pump, put the tranny in 4th and spin the rear wheel until the oil comes out of the hole where the sender was. I think this is the method described in the manual. I've also done it by disconnecting the return hose at the oil tank. Either way, I think it's smart to do it.

ckunsman89

· #3 · Jan 17, 2012

I always disconnect the oil lines going to the rockers and spin the motor over with the spark plugs out until i get some oil from the lines.

DarkGoat

· #4 · Jan 17, 2012

You guys are smart to do that, as that pump is prone to cavitation.

G

· #5 · Jan 17, 2012 (Edited by Moderator)

It must be primed...

This can be done while the motor is running...
Loosen the oil pressure switch and allow about 3 oz. of oil to be forced out.

It's also called burping the pump...

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martyp

Discussion Starter · #6 · Jan 20, 2012

thanks guys. rockers/heads/jugs/pistons are out just now so when i get em all back ill put everything together and then prime it before startup

wombat

· #7 · Jan 20, 2012

Read your manuel about timing the oil pump, pop a rocker box nut and turn it over to see if you have oil at the top end. I screwed up my new top end the first time. i would be extra carefull here and arm yourself with info.

G

· #8 · Jan 20, 2012

Does a 77 and up oil pump need to be timed...???

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Bukowski

· #9 · Jan 20, 2012

Does a 77 and up oil pump need to be timed...???

Nope, slap it in, prime and go.

G

· #10 · Jan 20, 2012

2

An idea on a up-grade oil pump...If you was in mind of doing so.

This pump is kick-ass for the 77-up Sporty

Has two sets of return gears....One for the sump, and one for the cam chest.

On the stock case there is a drain hole from the cam chest to the flywheels
This would be blocked off...Less oil for the flywheels to contend with..

They also make a three stage (On the return) for let's go racing...

Stock works very well on a Street driven Bike.

I run the stock 77-up Sporty pump gears on my 52 Pan-Shovel...

A big time up-grade from the spur gears of 52.

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martyp

Discussion Starter · #11 · Jan 25, 2012

Ok so ive noticed a new problem here... When i re-install the oil pump back the way it was all nice and bolted up and attempt to crank the engine with it in neutral, the kicker will not budge. When i remove the pump the kicker works fine and the engine rotates?? I thought that you didnt need to time pumps on 79 models??

The rotating gear on the top of the pump turns by hand about 360 degrees before locking when i take it out and turn it by hand..is this normal??

G

· #12 · Jan 25, 2012

Check the assembly of the pump to make sure all parts are in correctly.
That pump does not need to be timed as in the 76 and back pumps.

Something is locking the motor...???

A service manual would come in as handy as Tits on a Milk Cow.

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shovithead

· #13 · Jan 25, 2012 (Edited)

Sounds like a key fell out of one of the gears, and is in the mesh, keeping it from rotating beyond 360. Those keys are very small, as you know, and they are easily pushed out when installing. Anytime you disassemble any oil pump, you have to spin it, to make sure it rotates fully. Plus, in your hand, you can prime partially, and finish burping when you get it running.

G

· #14 · Jan 26, 2012

Being the motor locked down at kick over speed....

There is a good chance that damage has been done to the pump...
It don't take very much to cause problems to precision fitting parts....

Hope that I'm wrong....

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CB550 Matt

· #15 · Jan 26, 2012

Hey drag does that oil pump come in one for a 75 sporty and does a 75 need to be timmed?

G

· #16 · Jan 26, 2012 (Edited by Moderator)

2

CB550 Matt said:
Hey drag does that oil pump come in one for a 75 sporty?

Not the one in the picture....That is for 77 and up Geo-Roto gear (Gear inside a gear) design.

For All Sportie's from the K's to 76...You can get a Billet pump...They have the larger pump gears as in the 72-76 OEM pumps...
Would be a good upgrade to do to the 71 and back bikes.

CB550 Matt said:
Does a 75 need to be timmed?

Yes, all from 76 and back needs to be timed...
With the 72-76 pumps, they have a longer breather window....With that pump being used on any 76 and back motors, You can do the XLR timing specks...(Degrees the window in to maximum breather timing, Really a good thing to do when adding a stroke to the Piglets)

S&S has detailed instructions on how to do this.

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CB550 Matt

· #17 · Jan 26, 2012

thanks man .. will send you a pm on some parts order questions.

matt

martyp

Discussion Starter · #18 · Jan 27, 2012

Dragstew - the kicker wasnt kicked down like normal, as mentioned im rebuilding the top end. I merely tried to press it with my hand and it wouldnt budge so i put a little bit of weight on it and it still wouldnt move. I didnt force-kick so hopefully there is minimum damage. It does seem like it may need investigated. Fucking ironheads

1 - 18 of 18 Posts

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