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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,

I have a 1977 FLH with an 84" strikers. It has an A grind andrews cam, dyna s ignition, and a butterfly style keihin Carb. I recently swapped from a 1 3/4" true dual setup to a paugcho 1 3/4" 2-1 headpipe. I've also recently done a front rockerbox gasket and all pushrod tube and tappet block gaskets. The bike has adjustable pushrods and sifton hyraulic lifters. My problem is that pretty much from day one of the new headpipe, the front cylinder started to turn all sorts of colors. This led me to believe it was lean, but i checked the plugs and they looked good. Also, you can smell the fuel when it idles. It is even a little boggy at lower RPMs. Just the other night, it was running on choke to warm up and after about a minute, i noticed the front pipe was literally glowing red. I tried to bring the idke mixture a little bit leaner which has only resulted in coughing through the carb while the front cyl still glows after only a short time on choke. i have a million theories in my head, but none fomulated from experience as this is my first shovel. anyone have any suggestions / experience with this?
 

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Stop running the motor before you melt that thing (if you haven't already).
Read up about that carb & baseline it; stop trying to make it leaner (that is, making things worse).

Sound like your ignition timing could be out to lunch. Don't worry about pipe color, you've got bigger issues to deal with.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I was also thinking ignition timing, as in potentially firing into the exhaust. However this thing runs real good. Starts with 2 prime kicks and a fire kick when cold, and first kick when hot. If the ignition was out of whack, wouldnt it be real hard to kickstart?
 

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Check your timming. If it's retarded it will glow red, and it will also be easier to start if it's retarded.

I'd start with the timming first. Do one thing at a time. Don't screw with the timming AND the carb at the same time, you'll fight yourself.


Sixball
 

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timing could be 180 degrees off....someone static timed it on the wrong lobe. Just for kicks.....

Put some flyweights and points plate set up in it, static time it to the skinny lobe [ front cylinder], front intake just starting to close, then go to other side bring timing mark up in hole, turn the breaker plate until points open enough to release [ celophane from cigarette pack] or test light lights up, then lock it down. you are now correctly static timed.

I bought a panhead cheap once because of this problem! thing was slow with a glow! corrected it ran cool and was twice as fast! LOL

often it is something that simple and stupid! LOL
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
So heres the thing. I forgot to mention that I put stock shovelhead Ngk plugs in it around the same time this all started. I have them gapped around .030". Should I be running different plugs with the dyna s ignition that has 2 coils? Could this problem be caused by something as simple as the wrong plugs? The reason i am kind of lost on this is because it ran really well with very moderate blueing on the pipes when I got the bike. the things I have changed are as follows:

~installed new NGK BPR5ES-11 plugs gapped at .030"

~installed paugcho 2-1 stock style head pipe with unbaffled fishtail

~replaced carb to spacer and spaced to manifold gaskets.

~replaced pushrod tube o-rings and tappet block gaskets

~replaced rocker box gasket on front cyl.

~replaced all ring terminals @ coils and installed heatshrink for weather tight connection.

~removed fuel filter element.

~cleaned carburetor.


i am not sure how much of this is relevant to my problem, but i figure in order to give me theories, you guys need all the info you can get. I have not opened the timing cover, nor did i adjust those pushrods any different than the others. The bike has a very strong fuel smell in the exhaust at idle. i mean so much so that it burns your nose and eyes. I am going to check my timing, intake leaks, and spark plug condition so far. I am really frustrated. the bike is boggy down low in the rpms, smokes black under accel, smells like fuel in the exhaust, yet the plugs look okay. my head is spinning.
 

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Shell V-power is the only fuel left chocked full of good aditives. the other lower octain fuels, work good in modern fuel injected engines. although if you use it in carburated engines you will suffer corrosion problems in your carburator.

idle circuit- transition to mains? yea you cleaned it, but how good? did you put it back together wrong? is your float functioning properly? is fuel running past a defective seat causing this eye watering problem, black smoke and bog?

How many of you have taken the bowl off your lawnmower, motorcycle and found white powder that looks like cocain? I had a needle and seat froze up in my tractor carb, had to soak it for days to get it free! this modern fuel is not good for old fuel systems!

Good luck finding your problem, one thing at a time, spray around your intake installation with starting fluid, see if rpm,s change. don't burn your shop down. best Russ
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
When I got home from work today, I decided to shoot everything i could with the infrared temp gun. As far as i could tell, both front and rear cylinders were running around the same temperature. Everything from the pipes to several spots on the heads and fins was within 15degrees. This was right after i pulled off the highway. I checked the gap on the sparkplugs that were in it when i got it they were around .040". I did want to mention that the boggyness seems to be worse when the bike is hot. Right after the rocker boxes become warm to the touch is when it runs the best. As it gets progressively hotter, the throttle response becomes more lagged. If my automotive knowledge translates, this would also point to retarded timing. Any help you guys can provide is really useful and greatly appreciated.

Thankyou,

O-skl
 

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When I got home from work today, I decided to shoot everything i could with the infrared temp gun. As far as i could tell, both front and rear cylinders were running around the same temperature. Everything from the pipes to several spots on the heads and fins was within 15degrees. This was right after i pulled off the highway. I checked the gap on the sparkplugs that were in it when i got it they were around .040". I did want to mention that the boggyness seems to be worse when the bike is hot. Right after the rocker boxes become warm to the touch is when it runs the best. As it gets progressively hotter, the throttle response becomes more lagged. If my automotive knowledge translates, this would also point to retarded timing. Any help you guys can provide is really useful and greatly appreciated.

Thankyou,

O-skl
I'll try this again..........

Your timing seems to be retarded. Check your timing.

I wouldn't continue to ride a bike with the front pipe glowing.

Sixball
 

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As stated before, your timing is off &your pushrods are adjusted to tight, front exhaust especially. As your motor warms, they expand even more, not allowing your exhaust valve to close completely. But dont continue to ride it like this, it will cost you a motor.
 
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