[Stinky Pete]

Did some searching but didn't come up with what I needed. The closest I came up with was this: http://www.jockeyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=47568&highlight=fork+disassembly

Ok - so I'm down to trying to remove the bottom bolt that holds the damper in-place, which in-turn holds the fork tube to the lower. The dampener is just spinning in the tube. The manual states that earlier models have a slot for a flat head screwdriver, and a year later has a hex provision to hold the dampener. It doesn't describe anything for mine - I guess you have to have some juju to keep them from spinning.

I don't have access to air tools atm and turning up the speed on my electric tools isn't getting it done either.

Is there some affordance to hold the dampener and I'm missing it? How can I get these bolts out?

Also - is it best to pull the fork seals after the tubes are out. I just seem to be making a big fricking mess of things trying to take them out. I'm afraid of gouging things.

Thanks.

 

[thefrog]

Putting the springs under pressure should help, like tying the triple trees to the front wheel.
I also remember there is a tool you can make that goes in from the top, its a round bar thats slotted at the end.
Dont know the right sizes tough.

Good luck!

 

[selectedgrub]

Yeah it's a pain in the ass.
Shock impact is an option that's worked for me.
The hammer blow type with a cut down allen key for reach.
You should be able to see up there to determine the bolt type.

 

[Nottso]

I've had good luck with an electric impact. It'll still spin, but each blow of the impact does some good until it finally pops loose.

 

[Stinky Pete]

Yeah it's a 6mm hex. I could try hammer-driven impact, but I might try to beg up some air tools before I do that.

 

[selectedgrub]

You might wanna check that because the difference between ¼ and 6mm maybe enough to strip it if you went impact. I thought it would be imperial?
Dunno.

 

[hogster]

and I would wait till its apart to remove seals

 

[Santa2]

It should be metric.Most likely Showa.
I use a piece of broom handle, tapered on the end, similar to a sharpened pencil, so it can put down the tube and jammed into the top of the slider.
I have found best success with a 1/4 drive metric allen socket attached to an electric impact wrench.

 

[FeHd]

I got mine out like described, compressed the springs and used a impact.

 

[EaglesInFlight]

I always use an air butterfly, speed x impact is the trick, if it strips out you could always use a drill bit slightly larger than 1/4" & when the head pops off it will be free & the slider will release, you shouldn't worry about drilling too far because there is a copper washer beneith the socket head fastner, this should prevent drill engagement with the slider...I suppose you could always just drill it out to begin with, remove slider & you will see there is approx 1/4" of threaded bolt left in the damper tube, easily removed once unloaded.
As far as the seal goes it is recommended to use a "slide hammer" type action once bottom bolt is removed & lockring is removed from above the seal...with a few slide actions it should pop apart for you no problem.

hope this gives you another idea.

 

[Bukowski]

Pretty sure you have Showa forks on there. If so you need to hold the damper tube, #16 in the pix. Get a section of 5/16" or so rod and flatten one end like a scew driver. Then grind it to a point. You want to center it in the damper hole and give it a couple of good wackes to bite into the brass damper. Then hold the rod with vice grips and loosen the retaining bolt.

 

[Stinky Pete]

Yep - they are the showa forks above. I'm not sure why the bottom screws are metric, when the rest aren't...although I'd wager if you tore into the starter motors you'd find some metric as well.

Thanks for the ideas guys. I might try using the 5/16" rod/broom stick idea. I'll let you know what I come up with.

Anyone know if I can throw a set of earlier model dampeners that have the slot in, after I take these out?

 

[Shacknasty]

I have had to cobble together some different tools to hold the dampener rod: a square steel rod, a sharpened dowel, etc. Sounds like ya got some good advice on that front.

When yer putting it back together ya might wanna use Leakproof brand fork seals. They can be installed with yer fingers (no tool needed!) and have a lifetime warrranty.

 

[moparkevin]

I'm having the same issues.. I can't get them f'n fork seals out..! do you thing heat will work?

 

[Stinky Pete]

I ended up using air to remove the lower bolts. I'll probably end up using air to put them back in.

For fork seals - use a seal puller.

 

[Dr. Benway]

I'm having the same issues.. I can't get them f'n fork seals out..! do you thing heat will work?

If you don't have a puller, a little heat can help loosen up all the solidified schmutz holding the seals in. Use a rag around your prybar or whatever so you don't ding up your slider in the process.
Don't use too much muscle, you can break of the lip on the slider...ask me how I know.

 

[moparkevin]

thank you I just got them out