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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I apologize in advance because I have no real idea what I am doing. I am working on my 71 and trying to redo the wiring. I have searched these threads, found every diagram out there, got all the manuals, and took copious notes when I tore the bike down. To follow is a diagram of the wiring, based on my interpretation of the information. I need a second, third, fourth, and fifth set of eyeballs to make sure my thoughts are straight. Never made a diagram before, let alone wire a bike, so forgive me for the randomness. I have no known direction of travel for the wires. Those that are marked L and R are just directional for my reference. There are no indicator lights, signals, speedo, tach; nothing but headlight, taillight and electrical system. Seen talk of fuses, let me know if there are critical ones that need to be added in. Assuming 10 gage wire throughout so let me know what needs to be beefed up. Thanks in advance and go easy on me, learning on the fly.
 

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You might want two separate breaker/fuse circuits; one on the starter/ignition, and one on lights/accessories. That way a short in a light won't take whole system down.
Also, 10 gauge throughout?? You can use much smaller gauge on on the lighting side...
 

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I agree with Dr. Benway that you should separate your circuits but i would take it one step further. Try to think of it a three separate systems. I.E. Starting, Ignition and Lights. Try drawing each one without thinking about the others. To your credit you have a good portion of it correct but transferring actual symbols from components to your drawing will help you sort things out.

I will watch this thread so post up a corrected drawing of say... just the lighting and include a battery, ground and switches. We can go from there.

Electricity can make your head spin.... especially when you ground yourself to the wrong wire..... Here to help.

Wheelman
 

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Sent you a email, this is to let you know who I am.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Thanks guys. I will revisit this over the weekend and try and seperate out the two systems. Heard some advice for fuses which I am going to try and add into each. Apparently I can bring the wiring down to 12 or 14 for the most part.

Can I get a brief education on purpose and flow? Specific questions:

1. Coil... in one side and out the other? Does it matter which?
2. Ignition/Key- I? L? B? Those are the simbols on the back. Assuming they represent something specific. B=battery, L= lights and I=ignition? If I click over to "B", whats happening? Appears to be you turn to "L" and get juice into system (lights). Then to "I" and you can fire it up. Saw a diagram without a key and just a starter button and am trying to differentiate whats happening through the turns.
3. Starter relay. Again, in one side and out the other? Coming in from the top S appears to make a connection and allow it to flow through. Is that correct?
4. Starter Solenoid- Same, same? Charge in from the top from the starter relay connects the circuit and allows the juice to flow from the battery straight to the starter?
5. Regulator- Ground is obvious. How does the rest of it work. D= into the generator, DF out and B+ to power the system? Clueless here. Not really sure how a generator as every car I ever owned had an alternator so its a foreign concept.

6. Is a special question. I was mounting the electronics in an old army first aide kit under the seat. Its metal. generator appears to be rubber mounted. No contact there? The starer relay was going to be mounted inside directly to the can. Acceptable?

I will post again over the weekend and would appreciate it if you can take some time to chime in again on the revisions. Thanks again guys for the help.
 

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On your coil, Unless your electronic ignition somehow requires battery power, there is no reason to connect it to the coil twice. And, yes it matters which side. Switched power to the + side, and the - side to the electronic trigger (or points.)

If your coil is not marked, there's an old fashioned way to tell if your polarity is correct. The bike will run either way, but if the coil is hooked up backwards the spark will jump from the grounding electrode to the center electrode. Makes the plugs wear faster.

Once the bike is running, skin the boot back on a plug wire (or use another wire without a boot. Start the motor and hold the bare terminal about 1/4" from the plug. Insert the tip of a sharp #2 pencil in the middle of the jumping spark. A shower of sparks from the pencil to the plug means it's right. If the shower goes from the pencil to the wire, you should reverse the leads on the coil.
 

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1) your coil doesnt ground, a coil works by grounding through the plugs, thats what creates your spark, one wire is a constant power and the other switches back and forth from on/off (from your points) thats what creates your intermitent spark is the on/open and off/close of the circuit

2)ignition, lights, battery- battery is your hot lead into the switch, the other is power out to the others, you shouldnt be able to click over to it? youll either have a simple on/off 2 position switch, a 3 position which would be off/acc/on or like i use a key switch that has a start option (electric start) such as a marine switch (napa part# 18-1802) you would run your lead from the battery to the B, your lights and ignition would both connect to the I and from S youd run a wire to the starter solenoid/relay so youd have on/off/start

3) a starter relay is really just a fancy switch, you could probably get away without one but yes essentially it is hot in hot out, with a trigger wire and i assume a ground? how many terminals is it?

4)starter solenoid is a heavy duty switch youll have a hot lead from your battery to one big post, the wire from your starter button/switch to the small terminal on the side and than a large wire from the solenoid to the starter

5) a voltage regulator just keeps your charging system in check allowing it to only deliver 14v to back to your battery

6) becareful not to touch anything that is energized/hot to the can as it will be grounded to the frame, the body of anything shouldnt be hot so as long as you have things mounted securely you should be fine

hope this helps a little
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks again guys. As for the starter relay tattoo, its only three terminals. FOund out we are doing some camping this weekend instead so it will be another week before I revisit. Don't give up on me because I will undoubtedly have more questions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Made some changes to the diagram. Need some additional input. Built a house instead of a bike so I been busy elsewhere. Trying to remind myself what I was doing so I certainly need some more second opinions.

Left the coil connected to both lines from the electronic ignition. Seems it went in on one side and came out of the other when I tore it down, thats at least how the wires are marked. Does it make sense that the electronic ignition is connected to both sides of the coil?

I almost removed the starter relay. With a breaker and based on Tattoos input, I think I could dump it in the interest of simplicity. Acceptable? Do I have to go Ignition Switch to Starter Button to Starter Relay and then to Starter Solenoid? Am I hitting the ignition button to connect the relay which will in turn connect the solenoid or can I just use the button to connect solenoid directly.

Regardless of the above, I dont know where to put a fuse/breaker in the starter loop. Ignition to button? Button to relay? Relay to solenoid? Solenoid to starter? Battery? Clueless.

I also moved the lights entirely from ST on the ignition to IG. I thought there was constant power to the headlight and tailight from the ST and that IG only operated the brake light switches to brighten the taillight when breaking. Is it okay that IG sends power to the lights normally and will then connect through the brake light switches as well? Again, where do I put the fuse on this group.

See a need for fuses other than starting and lights?

Well, I split things up; charging system, starting system, ignition and lights. let me know if this looks like a functional set up.

I am going to once again miss the good weather for riding but hopefully I can take the time to get it running finally. Thanks in advance for the input.
 

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