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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This project for the wife is very close to completion, however if I hear "It doesn't do me any good if I can't pull the clutch!" just one more time I'll probably kill her. Anyway, like a good little newb I did extensive searches on several different forums boards and saw all kinds of neat "doo-dads" for assistance in this area. I am a little green as far as motorcycle go but I am very mechanically inclined. The cable has been removed, and thoroughly cleaned and oiled to insure free movement, it is not "routed" on the bike in any way, just kinda out in one big arch from the bars down to the case and it is still very hard. I do notice that when you try to put it into gear it wants to grind, or bang into gear. Is this simply an out of adjustment thing, or do you guys think that properly adjusted it will still be a hard pull? Thanks in advance for any input!
 

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The clunking sound can be caused by too high an idle speed, or a clutch that has been badly adjusted. There are three springs holding the clutch pressure plate down. The nuts holding the springs down have to be adjusted so the pressure plate comes off perfectly even. A little bit of a wobble will cause the clunking.

The hardness can be caused by overtightning of these three spring nuts. Nuts should be tightened until until a few threads are showing past nut. Then adjust them till pressure plate comes off evenly.

I have two trumps and both have a very easy pull, with no clutch slippage.
 

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Some ideas: Do the clutch cable adjustment by the book. See how far in the three spring nuts are threaded, often they are run in more than needed. I start with nut flush with end of stud, usually this is good. Try another cable.....you need a spare anyway. See if you can find one with nylon lined conduit. None of that works, you could check out the 7 plate Norman Hyde conversion- supposed to be pretty slick.
 

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I had this same problem with a '59 Triumph I bought for my wife. It was so hard to pull that I couldnt even pull it in. I changed the springs and rod, but it ended up being the cable itself. It looked to be in good condition, too. I reccomend pulling the lever off and put it on a different set of bars (or use the installed bars) and get the cable as straight as possible, then try to activate the clutch. Good luck.
 

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Buy a new cable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Wow, quick (and big) response. Thanks a million guys. I think I am gonna pull the case and look at the clutch. The cable has been pulled off of the bike already, it moved freely (off the bike) so I lubed it and reinstalled it. I have it installed now as straight as possible, one large arch from the lever out and down to the case. After I check out the clutch itself, if I still have problems I'll probably buy the hydraulic clutch kit I found, just didn't reall have the money at present for it. $300 is a pretty good chunk in the winter time for a construction worker. Thanks again.
 

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All good points to check out ^^^ Ever consider the lever dimensions? The fulcrum and cable slug on some can be 1/8" further apart than on others, making for a harder clutch pull. I like to use the 7/8" ones vice the 1"...more leverage = less force.
 
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