Got a ratchet top with a bdl belt drive new steels and alto dry fibers its a 3 finger deal. What does this sound like, when taking off from a stop it does a hurkey jerky type of deal. Other then that it don't slip, creep or nada. What could it be improp adjusted pressure plate or what ?
4speed clutch quest
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497 Posts
check the studs for wear grooves,also the blocks on inside of clutch basket for grooves. all the studs and basket need to be smooth or that can cause that as the plates dont slide freely. sometimes a quick fix is to enlage the holes on the plates a size or two so they dont hang up on the studs.
G
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·Also make sure that the spring pressure plate is adjusted for an even release... If it's off to one side, being uneven, will do the jerk....
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7,101 Posts
Get the five finger, will help a lot!!!
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I like the 3 finger hubs. Have one on both the shovel and the pan.
Sounds like your fibers are sticking together. If they are new, they shouldnt. They should be fine from the box to the hub, dont put anything on them.. I use a clutch tammer. Make sure your pressure plate is lifting squarely off the fibers. If you are running the new style wafer throwout bearing, you shouldnt be able to pull your clutch pushrod out through the clutch hub nut. I like the old style cone throwout bearing. That set up will allow you to pull the rod to be moved out if you pull on it. Make sure your clutch hub nut has a good rubber seal for the clutchrod and does not weep oil onto your fibers. I really like the loose, long 52 roller bearings for the hub/basket. Alot more stable than the caged ball bearings. If your steels have " Out " stamped on them, make sure out is out. Make sure your steels are staggard when you install them. Make sure your clutch adjusting screw is in good shape with a straight and true contact surface.
Mish
Sounds like your fibers are sticking together. If they are new, they shouldnt. They should be fine from the box to the hub, dont put anything on them.. I use a clutch tammer. Make sure your pressure plate is lifting squarely off the fibers. If you are running the new style wafer throwout bearing, you shouldnt be able to pull your clutch pushrod out through the clutch hub nut. I like the old style cone throwout bearing. That set up will allow you to pull the rod to be moved out if you pull on it. Make sure your clutch hub nut has a good rubber seal for the clutchrod and does not weep oil onto your fibers. I really like the loose, long 52 roller bearings for the hub/basket. Alot more stable than the caged ball bearings. If your steels have " Out " stamped on them, make sure out is out. Make sure your steels are staggard when you install them. Make sure your clutch adjusting screw is in good shape with a straight and true contact surface.
Mish
G
Guest
·And if the clutch basket has alot of side walk when in the release mode...
A tammer may also be a good idea...
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A tammer may also be a good idea...
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497 Posts
make sure your belt drive is not to tight, seen that pull the hub when the clutch is disengaged. like was said above a tamer and big fix bearings.
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300 Posts
I'm trying to figure out the same thing at the moment. 3" BDL setup on a 5 finger hub, caged clutch bearing & retainer. Normal rattle when disengaged, no slip & shifts nice when rolling, but when moving off from a standstill it makes a horrible screechy-shuddery sound.
It hasn't always been like this, kind of crept up gradually, so I guess something's wearing/worn out. I can feel some very light wear on the fingers, not notchy but there. The dogs in the basket are fine. Mainshaft support bearing is good & fairly new plates, both frictions & steels.
I've done a bit of searching on various forums & the there are loads of different opinions regarding causes & fixes, most seem to involve throwing money at the problem, not an option for me these days. I know this setup can be good, it worked with no problems for at least 20000 miles, so if anybody can shed some light on which component is the most likely culprit I'd be very grateful.
It hasn't always been like this, kind of crept up gradually, so I guess something's wearing/worn out. I can feel some very light wear on the fingers, not notchy but there. The dogs in the basket are fine. Mainshaft support bearing is good & fairly new plates, both frictions & steels.
I've done a bit of searching on various forums & the there are loads of different opinions regarding causes & fixes, most seem to involve throwing money at the problem, not an option for me these days. I know this setup can be good, it worked with no problems for at least 20000 miles, so if anybody can shed some light on which component is the most likely culprit I'd be very grateful.
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212 Posts
I imagine you have new friction disc which have uneven surfaces, place a piece of sandpaper on a flat surface and lap (sand) each side of each disc enough so the all surface are even across. It will also help to oversize the clutch finger holes at least one size up.
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1,036 Posts
I've been down this road before. You can get it to work but there's a lot to be said about the new sealed bearing styles of the BDL and Rivera pro clutch especially when using a wide belt. Upgrade the clutch and you won't have to fuck with it again. The stock bearings allow the basket to walk outward just enough to cause issues.
G
Guest
·Got to have a little or the bearing won't go in.....
I have a wonder about the trans being up to snuff...
If there is mega play on the 4th gear to case bearings and mainshaft to 4th gear bushing....May be the cause....????
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I have a wonder about the trans being up to snuff...
If there is mega play on the 4th gear to case bearings and mainshaft to 4th gear bushing....May be the cause....????
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"supposed to be" and "there always will be" are two different things. I can't imagine any benefit to the basket floating in and out. As the basket floats outwards towards the hub the amount of space the clutch pack has to free up becomes smaller.
I'm no expert. Perhaps someone here can verify that for us.
I'm no expert. Perhaps someone here can verify that for us.
Not to sound dumb, but what bearing ? The trans as far as I know is fine. I have absolutely 0 play in the hub and shell between each other. Would it be worth it to try the tamer ? Where I could set the adjustment on it
G
Guest
·Is this the type Tammer you have...???
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Or the one that takes the shims....??
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Or the one that takes the shims....??
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G
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·http://www.zodiac.nl/instructions/291266.pdf
This has the clearance speck.....Should be the same for the "A" "B" "C" one too....
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This has the clearance speck.....Should be the same for the "A" "B" "C" one too....
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