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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,

I read around on the forum and found advice on a thread that the 45" to 74" neck cup conversion kit from V-Twin will allow a brother to put a 7/8" stem front end in a 1" neck.

Here's the part:
http://www.vtwinmfg.com/webapp/wcs/..._10102_3315709_-1_142247_142864_142900_142901

I bought this from V-Twin and put the neck cups in my '54 Panhead frame. When I slid the 45 springer front end in there it was all sorts of sloppy... you know the hotdog down a hallway analogy right?

Anyway, is it most likely that V-Twin sent me something incorrectly packaged (As incredibly, outstandingly unlikely as that seems)?

I would imagine that it should slide in there with virtually no play and then the ball bearings should do the rest.

Thanks much!
 

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I have had no luck with ANYTHING from V-Twin Mfg !!!...to the point I will never waste money on anything they make anymore.....nothing ever fits,holes out of alignement,parts the wrong shape, tolerances miles out.....a lot of good firms out there but they ain't one of them in my opinion!!....
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I have had no luck with ANYTHING from V-Twin Mfg !!!...to the point I will never waste money on anything they make anymore.....nothing ever fits,holes out of alignement,parts the wrong shape, tolerances miles out.....a lot of good firms out there but they ain't one of them in my opinion!!....
Man, I hear you! In this case though I can see that I can buy the same part from both J&P and a few other places, but I'm sure it comes out of the same plant where it's being made by the same blind, Indonesian kid. I guess I should probably throw a caliper on the ID of the cups and if it's 1" I'll know they just packaged it like fools... that'd be the blind, Chinese kid in shipping or whatever.
 

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Factory springer cups for big twins and 45s do not fit close to the stem. They rely on the centering rings and inner races to locate them. I have not used the adapter kits, however if you believe the frame cups have anything to do with centering the stem other than holding the bearings you are mistaken.
Robbie
 

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I've used that same kit with excellent results mating a pan frame to a early 45 front end. BUT, the kit was two ball-bearings shy of what was required. Instead of mixing and matching the balls, I just swapped out the whole set with some other new ones from my stash. If you have everything assembled properly, they might have sent you the wrong parts or mis-labled them. That blows, but its happened before :(.
 

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I have used this kit many times and it always works, but you have to have the bearings, races and crown nut installed for it to center up. Prior to this kit, I used triumph handlebar shims to shim the big twin races to the 45 stem.
 

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Listen to what Robbie said before bashing a specific company. There are only very few places that make the parts everybody sells.
 

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Sure would be nice to be able to run Timken's instead of the balls...

Think with a little "Think Tank" going on, the 78 to 81 Sporty bearings could go into play..
Why couldn't you make a 7/8 to 1 inch sleeve (like the handlebar adaptors above) and use stock bearings for a big twin. Top one could be shouldered. Paughco makes a crown nut without the centering cone that would probably work.

I haven't checked, but there could be a Timken style bearing that has a 7/8 id and uses the big twin style race.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I appreciate the responses and help, but there isn't a lot of continuity to this thread. I have people telling me to pay my respects to V-Twin and use supposed shims, etc... and others telling me it should bolt right up.

Are these sleeves readily available somewhere?

Thanks again,
 

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I appreciate the responses and help, but there isn't a lot of continuity to this thread. I have people telling me to pay my respects to V-Twin and use supposed shims, etc... and others telling me it should bolt right up.

Are these sleeves readily available somewhere?

Thanks again,
Yea, we've kind of drifted off topic. Back to your original problem using ball bearings.

As Rubone mentioned above, is there a centering cone on the bottom of your stem on top of the lower tree?

Pictures might help.
 

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Assuming that you have the V-Twin kit installed correctly you need a stiff grease to hold the balls in place in the lower race. The springer stem fits loosely inside the neck. The locating of springer versus frame neck is done by the balls that fit inside the groove of your races. You push the springer through the neck making sure not to lose any balls.On the top there is a nut that when screwed down will apply pressure on the races thereby forcing the balls in to the groove and allowing the springer to rotate smoothly. As you srew the nut down tighter it will get harder and harder to turn the springer. Back off until the movement is smooth.
On a stock setup the nut is tall with the top race at the bottom and a sprocket on top. You now install the top tree and another nut goes on the stem. The sprocket part has to be kept in position as you tighten the top nut. There is a hole in the triple clamp that a pin goes through to keep the sprocket from turning.
Hope this helps
 

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Why couldn't you make a 7/8 to 1 inch sleeve (like the handlebar adaptors above) and use stock bearings for a big twin. Top one could be shouldered. Paughco makes a crown nut without the centering cone that would probably work.

I haven't checked, but there could be a Timken style bearing that has a 7/8 id and uses the big twin style race.
There are a few ways to skin that cat....



Here's one that I cut down and welded back...making it work on the Timken.

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I'm running Timkens, a 7/8ths Stem, 1 inch bearings and big twin rockers... All just takes a bit of thinking and machining.
 
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