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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Wrapping up my latest, and keep running into this issue.

As I am lifting my foot off of the clutch, and starting to twist the throttle, there is no "ease" into 1st gear. It's time to hang on, cause she's takin off. Cant get this thing to ease into motion at all. Any ideas will be greatly appreciated.

- pan/shovel stock
- 4-speed ratchet top trans
- Jockey shift/ foot clutch
- Belt drive/clutch setup

I have played with the clutch adjustment all over the place to know avail. A friend recommended a RamJett Retainer. Said this would cure it, but everything I am reading, seems to refer to the RamJett being used for a totally different issue. I have a little slack in my belt, could it still be too tight?

Thanks
 

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How much throw do you have in the engagement? How far off of the pivot point is the rod/cable attached? What kind of clutch is it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
BDL basket with 5 finger oem clutch
1.5" belt
Foot clutch, so no cable.
About 1/4" - 3/8" travel on clutch plate, from clutch pedal engaged and released
 

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BDL basket with 5 finger oem clutch
1.5" belt
Foot clutch, so no cable.
About 1/4" - 3/8" travel on clutch plate, from clutch pedal engaged and released
yeah, but what BigDawg is referring to is how far do you have to move the clutch pedal to enguage and disenguage the clutch. It sounds like your clutch linkage needs tobe repositioned closer to the pivot point of your clutch pedal. pics of your setup would help confirm this.
 

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You can have a cable AND a foot clutch. I ride one all of the time.

Now how far out from the pivot point does the clutch rod attach? The further away it is, the less amount of travel you'll have. That will cause an on/off clutch feel if you have the clutch rod attached too far away from the center of the pivot point.
 

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Your engine and transmission are not aligned properly. When you disengage the clutch the basket is walking out and making your clutch plates drag. The ramjett will make it better but the real fix is to align the motor output shaft and the transmission input shaft. This is often a problem wig belt drive primaries.

-Craig
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
BigDawg- Im following you. Thought I might have mislead you. I have full engagement. A good 2-3" of travel on the pedal. No issues with drag, or inching forward when in gear with the clutch pedal pushed down. It's as if im not engaging/disengaging until the last 1/8" of travel of the clutch pedal being released. As I am slowly releasing the clutch pedal there is no easing forward as if to roll out of the clutch; instead it is nothing....nothing...nothing...and then wham, better hold on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Okay, I have heard of this theory of engine to tranny alignment being the culprit of the "dragging" of the clutch. Stupid question: considering this is an early wishbone frame, stock motormounts, with transmission plate bolted directly to frame; what is the best way to achieve perfect allignment?

New to this older stuff, bear with my ignorance.
 

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I use an alignment bracket that attaches to the front trans mount and allows you to push individually on the front mounting studs. The alignment process is a bit of trial and error. Watch how the clutch basket moves with the motor running and the clutch disengaged.

-Craig

 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Here is a shot of the drive side of my bike. Hopefully this will shed light on my setup.



So does that adjuster make up for a big difference? My trans fits really tight in the square guides in between the 4 mounting holes on the trans plate. I dont know that it would have that much affect, but I may be wrong.
 

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If you're running an inner primary (even though it's tin), it's probably aligned fine. I still think its in the attachment point as long ad you feel like you've adjusted it properly, although the first thing I would do is mess with the clutch adjustment and see if it changes anything. Try loosening it up a little and see if it gives you a little better pedal feel. I have tightened one too much before and it was on/off hold on to your shit once you let it out.
 

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You have the right plate ? for ridged .Stay away from the cheap ajuster in the picture use the stock screw or put out the extra cash and get good ajustable plate,But make sure you have the right plate.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Yeah, BigDawg that's my first order of business tomorrow after work; is to loosen things up a bit and see how it affects things. Someone mentioned 3/4" of play/slack/deflection in the drive belt, and I know I dont have near that much.

iigii - The adjuster I am using is the oem single point at the rear of the mounting plate. I am pretty sure I have the correct plate, unless there was some one-year only exclusives, then Im confident its correct.

I will follow up with any improvements or steps backward. Thanks.
 

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Another Gizmo that aids a better clutch release ....

Spring Collar Assembly....V-Twin #20-0300 for the three finger and # 20-0454 for the five finger.

What it does.....
Eliminates wobbly pressure plate, give a balanced spring load, providing a smooth positive clutch operation with a minimum number of adjustments.

The nuts go through the spring collar which strengthen and stabilize it....

By the time all this shi...stuff is loaded onto the clutch...Should be able to spin the clutch hub by hand with the help of someone holding the peddle down....

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Englishman- No recognizable squeal from the clutch.

Gonna try a few things tonight, I will relay the results. Thanks for all your help guys!
 

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yeah, but what BigDawg is referring to is how far do you have to move the clutch pedal to enguage and disenguage the clutch. It sounds like your clutch linkage needs tobe repositioned closer to the pivot point of your clutch pedal. pics of your setup would help confirm this.
Yup. That attachment point is high high high...if you could somehow move that closer to the pivot point, and you'll have some range in your friction area.
 
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