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always have to make sure that keyway is sitting right amd doesnt ride up.

Me personally I go for torque wrench on everything , Im paranoid . manual talks of nylon rope in thru the spark plug hole = no thanks
I wrap rope around studs intertwined and tie to frame so theres some give until the T wrench clicks.

if youve got impact then its your choice
 

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I believe it's 35ft/lbs.

If you want to be particular about it. . . paint the taper on the shaft with layout dye, install the key/hub/nut and tighten to spec. Remove and inspect the shaft. You should see contact all the way around the shaft. More often than not, replacement keys are too tall and prevent the hub from seating on the shaft properly. This will let the hub wobble or be prone to coming loose.

If too tall, grind the key down (on the outermost flat part, not the part that engages the shaft) until it fits right. Plenty of leeway there. The key is only for positioning. It's the taper itself that holds the hub and takes the load.

Magic marker work if you don't have layout dye.

This is real world info, not internet esoterics. I have solved many reported clutch hub issues this way.

Jason
 

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As was said, make sure the key is in place before tightning. When you put the hub in place, look along the shaft and you should be able to see the end of the key in place. Put the lock tab on and put hub nut on, finger tight to hold it in place till ya get your wrench.
Don't forget it's left hand thread.
 

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I took a old clutch disc and welded on a a 'bout a 2 foot long piece of rod,slip the disc over the studs and the rod sits on the table[or floor] holds everything in place,great for take'n the hub off too and as stated,left hand thread,put the shaft at 12 o clock,dab of grease to hold the key,hope that helps,
GBM
 

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As stated previously always fit the key to the keyway and ensure clearance (light emitting) between the top of the key and the hub. Never hammer or otherwise force the fitment of the key in the slot. No offense regarding the grease as a holding medium for the key, but I personally do not want the chance of any "foreign matter" interfering with the hub/shaft interface.

Jerry
 

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you might want to punch it up to 50 on the nut and 80+ on the front sprocket if youve got compensator on front.
I did this a week ago replaced primo 1 1/2 back to chain.

10 years ago it left me on the side of road , no quick fix when a belt goes ping.
shovel primary is a good set up , total upgrade from pan
 

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Theres a lot of pro's and con's on this, I was told that your not to use an impact wrench,as Greenwrench said an old clutch disk and a breaker bar to take it apart and a torque wrench to put it togeather.
And the same goes for the engine crank nut.
 

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I've seen hubs that were put on with an impact crush the shaft enough that the clutch rod hung up inside them (more than once). I'm not saying it happens everytime, but it can happen.
Larry T
 
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