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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone,
From looking through the threads it seem many of the people on here like picture threads so ill do my best. I am fairly new to harleys so tearing into this project blindfolded was out of the question for me.... so i did what anyone would do in my position... i go my work to buy me an ipad ;) and i have basically taken pictures of everything during the tear down (so i remember where everything is supposed to go)... and will continue to do so for reassembly. I have not even opened a manual for a shovel head yet and by my steller use of common knowledge and leverage i got the bike down to a bare frame in a matter of about 6 solid hours. I didnt run into any issues at all in this process. I am not OCD by any means but i use nitrate gloves when i work... and basically i would take a picture of my progress once a pair of the gloves were beyond the point of use lol...

Anywhoo ill shut up and start posting a bunch of pics

this is the bike as i got it... 1980 fxe wide glide... +4 over stock yuck... had some godawful apes on it too so those got remedied..



i broke down and got some 19-3/4" fork tubes and slapped em on there to ease the pain (knowing it was all coming apart anyway)



i figured the biggest bitch would be the primary so i started there



the only special tool i needed to buy for this whole tear down was a 1-1/2" socket 1/2" drive... autozone ftw at 7.99 its hard to beat... buzzed off the normal thread compensator bolt via BD electronic impact gun



The scariest looking thing in the primary was the clutch pack/ basket with all the springs... turned out to be easy as hell to take apart.



This bike sounded like Shit when trying to electric start... i figured this explains that funky noise...



got the spring retainer plate off and pulled the throwout push-rod out of the trans... now it was just a matter of pulling the plates and friction disks out...


It was now time to loosen the basket nut (reverse thread) some may frown or call me an idiot for doing this but i used the barbarian way of removing the basket... and honestly it was much less invasive than i thought.. essentially i got the biggest flat head i had, set it to slightly pry the back of the basket against the inner primary back wall while i tapped on the loosened center nut with a mini sledge... (very light taps were all i needed to do) and it came right off zing..



I treated myself to a beer



the bolts to take the inner primary cover off were fairly simple, the P.O. must of had some mechanic wire tie the front bolts (assuming this is common?) so ill plan on doing that again on the reassemble...



and the inner primary is off


Ill post more tomorrow... tired as f' and i might have jury duty tomorrow so im pissy
 
G

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Re: 1980 80ci softail build (boatload of pics)

It looks like the front, top mounting ear on the inner is cracked. Is it?
Sure is busted....:eek:

Most of the time when this happens, the reason is....

Flywheels has shifted, mega runout on the shafts....causing it to be a shaker...Not only the primary is in harms way...But the rear fender will also take a woopin, gas tank mounts, all motor mounts ect.....Very hard to keep the screws tight in the Sunglasses too.

Welded one up just awhile back that seen the same problem....



After welding went down and the dressing up of the weld...Had it powder coated...





Being the flywheels needed service anyways, went with new and a bit more stroke and a Big Bore Kit...93" when all was said and done.



Perfect motor size for long life...

===================================================================

Being you have pulled your motor down this far already.
Sure would be a good idea to pull the crank for a check on runout....

===================================================================

the inner bolts are ment to be tie wired together
The job that was done with the safety wire was a bit on the weak side....

If you wanted to do away with this type of locking the bolts from backing out...V-Twin make a lock tab plate for doing this job...

PN 15-0223



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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Re: 1980 80ci softail build (boatload of pics)

noted, thanks - like i said new to harleys so i dont know shit lol

plans is to rebuild the thing and make it look as un factory like as possible (in budget) .. i saw a few swingarm style bikes on here that i liked. I want to black out as much as possible as i am not really a big chrome guy. Thanks again

Love seeing projects, just so you know its not a softail its a swing arm bike. What's the plans for the rebuild?
 

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Re: 1980 80ci softail build (boatload of pics)

It could be broken from mis-alingment ot the engine and trans. I've seen where guys just reef the bolts in without doing any kind of alingment check. It could also be from what Dradstews said. It needs looked into in any case.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Re: 1980 80ci softail build (boatload of pics)

It could be broken from mis-alingment ot the engine and trans. I've seen where guys just reef the bolts in without doing any kind of alingment check. It could also be from what Dradstews said. It needs looked into in any case.
What is the standard way of checking the flywheel bearings? Just dial gauge the play on the connecting rods? When this thing ran it ran like a bat out of hell... it shook but i just figured that just goes with being a shovelhead lol.. The local shop around here did most of the maintenance on it and they said it was a solid motor that had no issues because it was basically stock & un messed around with. Bike had about 20k on the odo. Either way i was planning on having it torn down to at least the bottom end anyway.

Thanks again guys for the info!
 
G

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Re: 1980 80ci softail build (boatload of pics)

The only few tests you can do with the lower end still being altogether is...

Rod shake and endplay on the Timken bearing...One other can be done once the cam cover has been pulled for ware on the pinion bearings...

None of these tests will tell you about flywheel runout...But for the test at the end of the pinion shaft...
By setting up a test indicator on the end of the shaft and seeing the sweep of the needle being over 0.002 would be a good clue on "IF" your in fact dealing with shifted wheels....

Question...??

Have you seen any more parts that shows cracks or are broken....
Cracks in the rear fender or top motor mount...Broken ears on the gas tanks...Tail light shook to shit....Stuff like that...??

The motor that cracked the primary was petty bad off on the run-out....
Even did damage with pipe dance....

Needed a bit of TLC on the exhaust ports....





Like I said in the other post...Your down this far already....Might as well go all the way with a good look-see at all motor parts....

BTW.....The Black Power Coated motor is also an 80 year model ..FXWG..

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Re: 1980 80ci softail build (boatload of pics)

few bolts 5 wires and a couple oil lines later ...and no shit... there i was standing in front of my moter-less carcass of a harley



Doing this a bit ass backwards being i had this thing on a little atv stand..it was in the garage and handy ...dont judge me ;) The bike took off into a wheelie being the back wheel & swingarm were still attached, this was about the highest point of the tear down humor..

The oily road grime was so bad...my limited ammount of rags would have been in jeopardy... so i just planned on bringing it to the car wash & make thier oil separators deal with it..



Heres the heart of the beast, yes it looks like shit... perhaps the P.O. took a rattle can to the cases, but it will look much better when its going back in



I didnt take many pics of removing the oil tank & battery box... deal with it.

to change it up & give my hands a break i decided to get the WG tripple trees removed. Up to this point the only tree's i removed aside from the ones in fields... were off jap bikes, so i was expecting ball bearings to fall all over the place (rook move right) And to my amazement harley put some nice tapered bearings in there!



Poped that funky chrome nipple thing off and boom another 1-1/2" nut... The duralast socket to the rescue again!



The dirtyness was starting to scare me, i knew that some knarly grease was lurking



Sure as shit the grease under that cap was baby shit green/ brown - i would say 1980 vintage



Back to the shit that matters - the trans, Pulled the wiring off the starter relay box to get it ready to take out.



Drive side



Had fun not knowing to unbolt the plate... or the trans from the plate... so that wasted about 10 mins of head scratching and beer drinking. Just look at that rattle can job on the transmission... good lord



Boom shits out..



Short story short, the wiring came off super easy along with the dash, swingarm, controls & kick stand. this is what was left. It was an oily mess so i proceeded to use my roomates hidden stash of engine degreaser and brake cleaner. I applied 4 coats of that crap, along with 2 bottles of honda engine brite, and 1 bottle of simple green.



I figured it was about time to get my parts under control & organized, i tossed the frame in the back of the truck and headed to target to grab some storage bins. Now im sure everyone has thier own way of keeping all the crap organized...



While i was out in town i shot the frame at the car wash for about 10 min's. It got it fairly clean to my supprise... I also shot the engine belly guard, and the transmission mounting plate (these were just fucking disgusting)



Yes... a roller in a sense.. ;)



This is where it sits as of now. I got this stainless cart from costco a while back for when we did epic bbq's i figured this was a more worthy calling. I will say that it is AT CAPACITY!

Anyways,
Next on my list is to fab a simple motor stand (any suggestions?) I saw a few guys just bolt some C channel under it...

After that ill tear the heads down to nothing, then tear the jugs off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Re: 1980 80ci softail build (boatload of pics)

The only few tests you can do with the lower end still being altogether is...

Rod shake and endplay on the Timken bearing...One other can be done once the cam cover has been pulled for ware on the pinion bearings...

None of these tests will tell you about flywheel runout...But for the test at the end of the pinion shaft...
By setting up a test indicator on the end of the shaft and seeing the sweep of the needle being over 0.002 would be a good clue on "IF" your in fact dealing with shifted wheels....

Question...??

Have you seen any more parts that shows cracks or are broken....
Cracks in the rear fender or top motor mount...Broken ears on the gas tanks...Tail light shook to shit....Stuff like that...??

The motor that cracked the primary was petty bad off on the run-out....
Even did damage with pipe dance....

Needed a bit of TLC on the exhaust ports....

Like I said in the other post...Your down this far already....Might as well go all the way with a good look-see at all motor parts....

BTW.....The Black Power Coated motor is also an 80 year model ..FXWG..
Lets see... First time i rode it the throttle cable jammed... and i basically fingered the bitch all the way TO and FROM the destination (about 8 miles each way) Talk about some bullshit on the hands.. The rear spoked wheel was so out of true that it was shaking like crazy, and shook the rear taillight off completely (if the motor helped this process so be it... the wheel was F'd) One of my riding bud's gave me his extra mag wheel off a 97 fatboy, bolted that up and it was smooooooth sailing after that. There was a broken tab on the tank, but half the bolts on the tank had no lock-tite or lock nuts. So either way these problems are aming down the road of f'd flywheel/ rod bearings.... :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Re: 1980 80ci softail build (boatload of pics)

Also i wanted to pick your guy's brains on ping testing the frame? Someone i know mentioned it - Is this something i should spend the $$ on. All the welds look fine.
 
G

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Re: 1980 80ci softail build (boatload of pics)

Yeah....;)....That is what I'm getting at.....:D

This would be my game plan....

Stroke it....If on a tight budget....Just do the wheels and "NO" Big Bore...

Keep the jugs you got and get the wheels and pistons for the stroke of your choice..
(All other parts for building the crank can be reused...Shafts, Rods if in good shape.)

S&S has pistons for doing a stroke with stock jugs in three strokes...

(1) 4-1/2
(2) 4-5/8
(3) 4-3/4

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Re: 1980 80ci softail build (boatload of pics)

The only few tests you can do with the lower end still being altogether is...

Rod shake and endplay on the Timken bearing...One other can be done once the cam cover has been pulled for ware on the pinion bearings...

None of these tests will tell you about flywheel runout...But for the test at the end of the pinion shaft...
By setting up a test indicator on the end of the shaft and seeing the sweep of the needle being over 0.002 would be a good clue on "IF" your in fact dealing with shifted wheels....

Question...??

Have you seen any more parts that shows cracks or are broken....
Cracks in the rear fender or top motor mount...Broken ears on the gas tanks...Tail light shook to shit....Stuff like that...??

The motor that cracked the primary was petty bad off on the run-out....
Even did damage with pipe dance....

Needed a bit of TLC on the exhaust ports....

Like I said in the other post...Your down this far already....Might as well go all the way with a good look-see at all motor parts....

BTW.....The Black Power Coated motor is also an 80 year model ..FXWG..
Good to know, I have to do some fixin' on my front exhaust port anyway..



This was caused but my stupidity and lack of knowledge of loading harley's onto trailers :( This is the main reason im tearing into this thing right now vs... in a few months when it starts getting cold as shit up here. I had a few guys in town look at it and said they can fix it easy, I just needed to strip the head down to nothing because they need to heat the head up to 500 deg's to weld it proper without distortion. I have the pics of tearing this head down & ill post em after work. :eek:

Back to answering your question again this could have been weakened by the motor and busted in this spot due to my stupidity... However the back exhaust looked perfectly fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Re: 1980 80ci softail build (boatload of pics)

Yeah....;)....That is what I'm getting at.....:D

This would be my game plan....

Stroke it....If on a tight budget....Just do the wheels and "NO" Big Bore...

Keep the jugs you got and get the wheels and pistons for the stroke of your choice..
(All other parts for building the crank can be reused...Shafts, Rods if in good shape.)

S&S has pistons for doing a stroke with stock jugs in three strokes...

(1) 4-1/2
(2) 4-5/8
(3) 4-3/4
When you say wheels, do you mean all new flywheels? Or just re-bearing the existing - I dont know the extent of the damage (Assuming there is damage) I know stroking the motor would be cool and i am open to all options. The jug on the front cyl (only one i can see) appear to be in decent shape, still have a nice hone on the walls, no deep scratches that i can see.

My budget will be pretty small as i still need to buy other stuff for the bike as well... fenders, possibly a tank, oil/ battery box, tires... ect, But i scour craigslist and usually find deals i cant pass up on the cheap. I want the motor to be rock solid reliable.
 
G

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Re: 1980 80ci softail build (boatload of pics)

The bearings should be replace as in a getting back to new specks...
That needs to be done anyway...with using the old wheels or new...

http://www.truettandosborn.com/flywheels.htm

What you have now may only need to be trued back up....
That would be the Low Dollar way of getting it back within running fit...
Could shave the left wheel in order to lighten the wheel to T&O and S&S specks....

Would be good to do for a light bike....faster rev's would be the results..
But still would be stock stroke of 4-1/4"....

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Re: 1980 80ci softail build (boatload of pics)

The bearings should be replace as in a getting back to new specks...
That needs to be done anyway...with using the old wheels or new...

http://www.truettandosborn.com/flywheels.htm

What you have now may only need to be trued back up....
That would be the Low Dollar way of getting it back within running fit...
Could shave the left wheel in order to lighten the wheel to T&O and S&S specks....

Would be good to do for a light bike....faster rev's would be the results..
But still would be stock stroke of 4-1/4"....
Right on thanks for the info. Now regardless of what i do bear in mind i am no speed junkie, especially on this bike... My garage is littered with go fast bikes... shit this last weekend i rode a friends zx14 and i didnt even break 6k rpms... lol

Now that huge torque flywheel looks spiffy.... that's what i love about these bikes - my last bike was a buell xb12s and even though i looked like a circus show on the thing... the torque killed all the sport bikes in the garage on the twisty roads they gawk about.

 
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