Jockey Journal Forum banner
1 - 20 of 42 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi I have started breaking down a 75 ironhead and have found some things I have questions on. The first is a hole that is plugged with JB weld and I don't know why it was done and if it is ok. The motor was running but the clutch had broken bolts and would not engage. The second is the sprocket in the transmission the seal is covered in permatex which is really not a big surprise since the whole bike seems to have been put back together using the old gaskets and permatex. I am planing on pulling the cylinders and heads and sandblasting the rust and flaking paint off them so they can be repainted. Any tips or things to check or look for would be great.

Thanks, Nick
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
317 Posts
The hole in the primary that is filled used to be the oil transfer valve that someone blocked off. This is common since the valve is prone to stick and allow oil to flow from the engine into the primary. I know of many including myself who run it blocked with no problems.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,698 Posts
With everything you've shown in the pics so far, the last owner was a butcher. The valve being plastered over, Permatex and old gaskets, the chain tensioner looks like the plastic foot is gone and it's been riding on steel for quite a while and the last guy couldn't even take the time to get the correct length bolts for the tensioner.

I'd tear the engine completely down and plan on a full rebuild because who knows what could be hiding under the blue glue and JB Weld.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks I was hoping that would be the case. I am going to build a new exhaust when I get the motor back into the frame. The frame is also getting redone since the welds did not look very good. There was a bunch of carbon build up in the heads and on the pistons but the cylinders looked good I will try to get more pictures the one thing that has be stumped is the threads going into the cylinders have a gap on the rear before the threads start and on the front they run all the way to the top. Also the bolts on the front don't thread into the cylinder as far as the rear and he used spacers to get it to tighten because the bolts are both the same length. I will try to get some more pictures of these since it is hard to explain. <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:eek:ffice" /><o:p></o:p>
<o:p> </o:p>
Thanks, Nick<o:p></o:p>
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The top end is coming off for sure Kickstart but I am hoping to not have to get into the lower end if possible. He was a butcher I think this was a basket case that was thrown together and he was trying to sell it I am glad I broke it open I know parts are going to start adding up but at least I will know it's good when done. I will get some pictures of the pistons and the open gear case so I can get some feedback. I appreciate the help and opinions getting away from my evo sportser has me kind of nervous. <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:eek:ffice" /><o:p></o:p>
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,698 Posts
You're going to have to do something with the transfer valve that's plastered over. Remove the old one and replace it or weld the hole up. That means splitting the cases. After seeing the blob of JB Weld, you'll have to do something about it. Who says the transfer valve was even bad. Could have been plenty of blow-by and the pressure forced engine oil through the sprocket seal.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ok looks like I am going to have to figure out what is needed to split the cases. If I am breaking it down this far is there any upgardes or parts that would be worth replacing? Thanks again for all the help.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
884 Posts
does it look like there's any permatex on the case halves?you need a few specialty tools plus the know how to get cases apart and most people won't go that far. not even tweakers so you might be safe there.look at your oil filter to see if there's any metal in it. if not go ahead and pull the top end and inspect the rods. if it was me i'd look at everything and if it looked good i'd do the top end and fix the other stuff and run it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,128 Posts
Ohhhh there are parts, but you have to ask what you want to do in the long run iwth the motor ... race, cruise, whatever just need to figure out how you are gonig to ride it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,903 Posts
I know jb welding the valve isn't the right way but, imo not the end of the world. Before I'd split the cases I'd check the crank end play/ runout, front/rear rod play, up and down, side to side. Like jbfrmca said, most ppl don't get their fingers in that deep, so chances are your good there. When ya get to that point, take a straight edge and check all of your surfaces for straightness. If everything is good and flat, get a good service manual and take your time and reasemble it the way it should have been done and you should be good to go.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I have a good manual and the case gaskets look good. I will check out the cranks and rods and keep my fingers crossed. As far what I want to do with the motor, I just want a cruiser that is reliable and fun to ride. If my budget does not get rocked by motor issues I am hoping to get a hydraulic clutch release and a kick start. The kick start is not needed but I think they look cool and are fun to have.

Thanks, Nick<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:eek:ffice" /><o:p></o:p>
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,128 Posts
there are people that still limp from kicking an Ironhead years after the fact. I am putting some nice pistons in mine and converting to a kickstart with my finger aka pushbutton starter.

Yeah your budget will get rocked hard unless you have a rebuilt motor with just tranny issues. the JB weld does not bode well for the overall quality of the previous owners method. I would have to say that if you are possibly looking at the same cost to rebuild that motor as a bigtwin, depending on your path, so if you want a shovel or evo and this is just a hold over spot .... the best solution might be to sell or part out and finance that bigtwin project or next flip
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,903 Posts
Gotta tell ya this story.
A friend brought over his shovle, damn near in tears, "I put in a quart of oil and a quart and a half runs out!" He was right, that thing leaked oil where it shouldent have.
Told him I wouldent do it but would help him disasemble and reasemble it the way it should be. While we were taking it apart he told me that a half dozen different guys had "worked" on it.
How this thing didn't plug up and starve for oil is beyond me, every gasket and serface had sylicone and or dope on it and most of the threads had been bugered up.
It took a week to pull it apart and clean everything up and another week to have the holes welded up, drilled and retapped.
Once everything was cleaned and tapped, we checked everything for straightness, play and reasembled it. The only serface we used dope on was the case halfs (yamabond), and to this day, that shovel hasent leaked a drop of oil anywhere.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I have been following your thread on there and have learned alot from it. I still have a couple issues that have me worried and I will try to get some photos up. The 4 threaded holes in the cylinders are different. At first I figured they had been drilled and taped but the front cylinders threads go all the way to the top and the rear has a gap with no threads. The bolts are all the same but on the front he used lug nuts to space it (I laughed a little just typing that). I am planning to do the motor work myself the cylinders are in spec I have to check the lower end when I get time to mess with it. My 99 sportster had the rear bearing go bad so I am pulling that and replacing the worn out cables right now so I am down a bike. <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:eek:ffice" /><o:p></o:p>
 
1 - 20 of 42 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top