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just from experiance & the pursuit of comfort, I'd stick to the other bars for long distance runs, the Z bars will give you a work out for sure..........
 

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Discussion Starter · #182 ·
yeh, I'll have a better feeling once I have the seat on. but might be a case of apes for the runs to europe and zed bars for in the country rides.
 

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I am one for changing bars as often as i change me socks,
one mistake I did on my 45 magnum was to use an internal Throttle,
It worked real well, but made it a real pain to swap bars over so I never did,
the throttle was the pain, a regular throttle makes bar changes real easy.....just need a few spare cables
 

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Discussion Starter · #185 ·
Finished the fender bottom mount today.
that's it.
then had a thought about how to mount the oil tank rear support. still don't know... don't want to mount to the fender.
so that leaves me either a bracket to the seat cross bar or a mount to the gearbox mounting plate. meh. indecisive!



 

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Is the frame bracket for the lower fender mount stout enough to support both?
 

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Discussion Starter · #187 · (Edited)
Is the frame bracket for the lower fender mount stout enough to support both?
Yes its pretty strong, but too far back from the oil tank. a bracket from there would be going at an angle. I'd prefer to do something a bit more 'straight'





on my shovel I welded a tab to cross bar, 2 holes on it, then an L shape plate from there to the bottom of the oil tank, I think this is the most discreet option and less clutter behind the gearbox.
I could do it in stainless, then polish it up and would just look like the back of the oil tank - but now thinking about it, said L bracket would have to go in between the tank and the support plate.. so that might be a problem there


 

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Discussion Starter · #188 ·
Right.... I'm going to mount it off the cross bar, looks like the less cluttered option.

Question though..
I'm using 1/8 flat stainless bar - leftovers from the sissy bar fender support - and then 1/8 flat mild for the tab that will be welded to the cross bar.

Would 1 strip be enough? - I'd weld some gussets, again with 1/8, to the flat bar now drilled and bolted to the oil tank.
or better go 2 strips?
these strips would then have a hole at the top to bolt to the cross bar tab.
What do you reckon?





Meanwhile... a photo with pretty colors.

 

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ANY lateral movement by the tank will be eliminated with 2 fasteners on the crossbar
 

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Discussion Starter · #190 ·
yeh good point.
2 straps it is.
it does make sense, even some of the repop tanks have to tabs at the top so they can be bolted to 2 tabs from the cross bar. unfortunately my tank dont have those and I don't really want to weld new ones to the tank.
 

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the 2 tabs on the top of other oil tanks are for the 58-64 type tanks for mounting the battery lid flags to.
you really should secure the oil tank with 2 straps tied together or 1 wide strap to prevent lateral movement & subsequent damage.
another option is to fab a mount that goes down to the transmission sub mounting plate. picture a z shaped piece of sheet metal that mounts under the rear passenger peg mount.
 

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Discussion Starter · #192 ·
Not much been happening.
I done the oil tank mount, but havent welded it to a tab on the frame yet.

meanwhile got a friend to try replicate the fender curve and rib on sheet metal so I could do the k&q seat.. but the dies on his bead roller are not deep enough to clear the rib. sh!t.
and I dont want to use fibreglass.
so...might ditch the k&q seat, losing too much time on it, and just go with the normal seat and p pad.



 

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A simple set of torch cut dies will get you to the desired bead. Lay out the profile you need on a piece of plate 1/2'' or larger. Cut out with a torch or plasma, grind and dress your cut. Adjust and clamp your dies you made for a even clearance were the areas outside the bead are just touching and clamp them to a bench or another plate. Once your happy with the fit bend a rod square or round into a U shape long enough to clear the work piece edge, weld that to your dies. When cooled clamp one side of the dies in a vise or make a stand. A practise piece or two will be a good idea. Since you have that piece started I would just use it. Put it in between your dies and just start hammering and working your way along the bead to change it to your new profile. You don't need to hammer hard. Just work up and down the bead till it is shaped. Watch your radius and keep it tuned up, if you don't I'll have to do a lot more writing to get you threw fixing that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #194 ·
I hear you joe, if I had the tools I could do this and make it fit.
But as you say, if I start hammering and the radius opens up, which more than likely will, and is not even right as it is now, I'd need an english wheel to get it back to shape... which I don't have...

A simpler way I thought about doing this, was to get to pieces of flat steel, easy to bend, and do the fender radius, lay them on either side of the rib.
then, get, I'd say 1" thin wall tube (or bigger diammeter, enough to clear that rib), cute the tube in half lengthways, then slot it all the way along, making it look like a spine? (that's the word), then would be easy to bend it to the fender radius, lay it on top, over the fender rib, onto the 2 flat metal sheets either side...and then weld..weld..weld...

But I have too many ideas for seats right now!
I want to have the option of single seat on springs and P pad. at the same way I want to have the option of king and queen. could do it with a seat pan with 2 holes cut where the solo seat springs go.... but will the seat padding be enough that I dont feel those 2 protrusions on my butt?? maybe...
I know I could forget the whole solo seat springs to avoid protrusions up by butt cheeks and go with a Le Pera style seat and is flush to the frame and has a kick pad that goes a bit up the fender...
but I do like the solo seat with springs.

hahaha, as you can imagine there's a lot of thoughts going through my head.

I'll do my own seats, foam shaping and trimming/upholstery
 

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Actually the radius will increase as you begin than decrease as you hammer the bead in, as it will streach and raise the bead. The simlpe die should be wider than the bead and as wide as your work. While welding pieces together would be a option it will be more work to control the radius.
 

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Too add tightening the gap in the area of the bead in the die will decrease the radius as it will stretch the bead area more.
 
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