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114 Posts
I know nothing about the hub of which you speak. Pics would help.
I’m assuming it uses free balls and not press in ball bearings.
Mounted point grinding wheels in a milling machine spindle won’t have the required speed (SFM) or bearing rigidity. A bearing race with chatter is worse than a bearing with pits. Are you using an auxiliary high speed spindle, mounted to the quill ?
What kind of dresser will you use to generate the radius on the point and do you have an optical comparator to check your result Or a good enough CMM ?
Will you mount the hub to a rotary table or are you using a CNC mill ? If you have access to a mill…do you also have access to a good lathe and tool post grinder ?
Will you use oversized balls and where will you source them ?
Bearings are magic and have JuJu. They don’t allow compromises. At least for very long.
I’ve been machining stuff for 55 years. You’re asking questions. I’m asking some too.
Together, maybe we can figure this out without ruining anything or putting your life in peril.
As for the drum, remember it needs to be laced up and trued when you’re resurfacing and then you want to radius your shoes to match the result.
Way back in ‘79 I tried re-facing my single side ‘54KHK front hub. Chucked it up in a lathe with a tool post grinder. Got it dial indicated concentric with the axle. Blued the inner drum surface and just cleaned it up to perfection. Got a brand new set of Buchanan spokes and laced it up to a 21” rim. On the truing stand you could see the warps and ripples in the freshly ground drum as the truing process torsioned the drum out of round/true. I still have those spokes.
The road to Hell is paved with good intentions.
I salute your intention to save this part and keep it original.
I’m assuming it uses free balls and not press in ball bearings.
Mounted point grinding wheels in a milling machine spindle won’t have the required speed (SFM) or bearing rigidity. A bearing race with chatter is worse than a bearing with pits. Are you using an auxiliary high speed spindle, mounted to the quill ?
What kind of dresser will you use to generate the radius on the point and do you have an optical comparator to check your result Or a good enough CMM ?
Will you mount the hub to a rotary table or are you using a CNC mill ? If you have access to a mill…do you also have access to a good lathe and tool post grinder ?
Will you use oversized balls and where will you source them ?
Bearings are magic and have JuJu. They don’t allow compromises. At least for very long.
I’ve been machining stuff for 55 years. You’re asking questions. I’m asking some too.
Together, maybe we can figure this out without ruining anything or putting your life in peril.
As for the drum, remember it needs to be laced up and trued when you’re resurfacing and then you want to radius your shoes to match the result.
Way back in ‘79 I tried re-facing my single side ‘54KHK front hub. Chucked it up in a lathe with a tool post grinder. Got it dial indicated concentric with the axle. Blued the inner drum surface and just cleaned it up to perfection. Got a brand new set of Buchanan spokes and laced it up to a 21” rim. On the truing stand you could see the warps and ripples in the freshly ground drum as the truing process torsioned the drum out of round/true. I still have those spokes.
The road to Hell is paved with good intentions.
I salute your intention to save this part and keep it original.
