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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Working on a WL that 3 other people worked on. They could not get it started. I timed it and sent the intake to Tom Cotton for rework and peak seals. (no more leaks)
So I got it started and the oil light stays on/ Primed it and it still stays on. Sent (oil pump) it out to a dealer in Wisconsin to get a second opinion on it's condition. That was 2 months ago.(did not send it back) So I ordered a new replica oil pump.
Installed it.primed it. Still has oil light on. Switched out oil pressure switch to a one i have that is good. Light still on.
Big puddle of sumped oil under the bike the next day.
Any ideas?
 

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Check your pressure relief valve: if set too low, it will bypass all the pumped oil in the timing chest and the oil pressure switch will stay on... This would also explain your puddle from too much oil in the chest and dumped via the breather...
In the end, Harleys run rollers, balls and bushes and don't really need oil pressure, just oil circulation.
In doubt, go for a spin and check oil temperature on side of tank with your hand. If hot, oil is circulating, whatever your oil switch says. If cold, no circulation = investigate further.
If no oil is circulating, with what oil's held in the crankcases, you can run 10 miles without fresh oil from the pump before engine will run too hot and tighten...

Patrick
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Now after sitting a couple of hour's I have oil on the cycle lift. I did run it about 5 minutes.
Crank case full of oil and leaking.(thinking the oil feed pump is working) Now I'm thinking the scavenger pump isn't working.
Is it the flow from the scavenger pump that triggers the oil flow switch?
 

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2 things...
Scavenge drive pin could be broken hence no drive...
Or
Breather on the scavenge tower drive is badly timed which prevents oil being transferred from crank case to timing case by pistons' descent hence oil stays in crank case...
Patrick
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
2 things...
Scavenge drive pin could be broken hence no drive...
Or
Breather on the scavenge tower drive is badly timed which prevents oil being transferred from crank case to timing case by pistons' descent hence oil stays in crank case...
Patrick
Just about to go in the shop and remove the scavenger pump to see what's going on. Thank you for your help.
 

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From memory, about 25 years I've been inside a WL, the pump scavenge gear is held by a key, not by a pin, hence unlikely to break... If it's OK, you need to open your timing chest and check the breather timing as follows:



That's for a Sportster, but very similar to the WL...

Rotate the crank until all the cam marks align as shown and stop there.

In that position, the circle on the oil pump drive tower should be in the middle of the slot on top of the pump body.
If not, pull the cam drive gear and the oil pump drive gear and reposition pump drive until circle is in middle of slot to time the breather properly.

Patrick
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Yes. I lined up the marks on the cam gears and the hole in the scavenge pump gear. It appears to be scavenging the oil from the crank case. But I still have an oil light that won't go away. Wondering about the pressure relief valve adjustment on the oil feed pump.
 

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Hi Frankenstein,

Long time since I've parted with my 45 manuals, BUT,

The K and KH are timed the same as WL, ie front cylinder timing slash on crank at 30 BTDC and funnilly enough, the cams align their marks at this point and same for breather timing...

For the early Sportster, yes, the front cylinder timing slash moves to 45 deg BTDC and is then not aligned with the cams marks by 15 degrees.

I suppose cams marks from R/W to X did not change for ease of machining/teeth spacings on gears (ie the teeth spacing/marking was calculated right from the start on the 1929 R model and stayed right until the KH)

Patrick
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Problem solved. Received my OEM feed pump in the mail today. Installed it. Have oil flow and light goes out. The aftermarket oil pump does not work period. No oil flow and oil just sumps into the crank case. (I should know better than to think an aftermarket part is going to work). Now to move on to the boogered M41 Carb. Thank you all for the help.
 
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