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not quite true, you did think that by shimming the magneto up and out of the mag drive mounting hole was the way to fine time it, until it was so far out & with so few teeth engaging that it all jammed, up causing lots of damage inside the timing chest, all because 'Daddy knew better' & you wouldnt listen to anyone who told you not to do it that way !.... hahahahaha
You referring to the joe hunt which seized? The shaft seized in the base, nothing to do with shimming it. The mag I replced it with has been in my UL and my knuck, but I appreciate the effort.
 
...I have Triumph, but the fixed magneto kicks galore and is very difficult to starts the engine so I bought the Morris kit to retard the points; still waiting after about 2 months. I finally bought it from another shop cause the guy at Morris did not liked to answer any of my emails; not this time nor couple of years ago when I tried to buy points...; almost bad service like Hunt; that is worst no doubt.
 
I set all my adjustable magnetos to be at full advance with lever or throttle closed, and the return spring keeps them at full advance whatever my wrist or finger think where full advance should be....

Open said lever or throttle a bit to start the engine and release afterwards to always return to full advance via spring, unaided.
...
Cause unless you're climbing huge gradients up the Rockies or the Himalayas, you don't need to retard timing ANYWHERE on the road...
i guess it really comes down to wether you're using an old style left side internal throttle which has the "reversed" turning direction and a solid wire
or a newer style setup with a flexible bowden wire instead.
on the old setup like on my WL you do not need to do anything with your wrist since there is no load on the grip.
the mag tends to rotate towards retarded timing when the bike runs at speed, so you could add a light spring,
but i just set my boot down on the inside of the foot board and so my leg keeps it from going anywhere.

to set everything up with a bowden cable requires a different approach and you have to use a spring to keep it set where you want it to be.

with a 3-speed trans i used the timing retad a lot in city traffic to control the speed of the bike when running with the throttle closed.
say you are in second gear and the bike rides too fast for the traffic situation although you have the throttle all the way closed, i just retard the timing and speed decreases.
also, on stop lights, i retard the timing all the way to keep rpms down.
now with the 4-speed conversion i don't have to move the mag around as much as before, but i still like to retard it at full stop.

the timing is set at full advance (mark on the flywheel) so that the points are just beginning to open. i never had to use a special timing tool for that.
using the special condensers with .26 mF for kickstarting and setting my points to .018" helps a lot with kick starting the bikes, in my experience.
i kick start the bike with the mag set to around 50% timing and found that is the best way for my bike to start, but every engine is different and likes different things...
 
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