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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Salem, MA
Posts: 1,052
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Check the Tech Section of my website - there is a PDF file posted there with a TON of wiring diagrams for various models.
Here is the direct link: http://www.knucklebusterinc.com/tech.html
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hard wrenchin' knuckle draggin' guerilla warfare motorcycle mayhem
news. pics. video. builds. tech. Updated daily! www.knucklebusterinc.com |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Syracuse, NY
Posts: 767
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I drew up a schematic for '03 Sportsters a few years ago. It's good for back to at least '99 maybe a little further? You can get it in PDF form here:
http://home.roadrunner.com/~embedded/ Gazza . |
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Walnut Creek, CA
Posts: 61
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As for switches, I just use a toggle. The only key I use when riding the '69 Triumph is for my beefy lock. The switch is down where the passenger pegs would mount on a stock bike, on the rh side. I can get to it with my toe before kicking and with the heel when I wanna shut down. Note that I found it necessary to insulate it with a rubber washer b/c it would break from vibes before.
Accel dual coil, MityMax, Lucas Rita, no battery, LED tail lite. No turns. Dimmer for the headlite. I keep hearing about needing a battery with electronic ign. but this has worked for me for many years. I sometimes wonder if the PO put in a high output stator. The HL dims at idle, but thats the only thing. Starts on first or second kick. Anyway, the simpler the setup the better. Less can be more. Hatch, I like where you're going with the wiring. +1 on the meter. Helps diagnose problems twice as fast. |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Los Angeles Calif.
Posts: 349
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: south orange county
Posts: 144
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my question is when you elimiate the battery say on a 73 ironhead setup thats kickstart only and only needs power to headlight and tail/brake light, how long does a capacitator last?
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: woosta, MA
Posts: 2,570
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need to know how much juice is flowing from your regulator? set your meter to the DCV setting (DC volts). put the red terminal on the hot (positive, red) lead from the regulator, and the black one on the ground (black). you will see the voltage displayed.
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i'm an asshole, you probably shouldn't listen to me. |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: San Jose CA
Posts: 1,122
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Hatch,
Your recipe is pretty similar to mine for brit bikes. * if the timing weight assembly is not total garbage and I want run without a battery, I keep points and use a condensor. New rotor (stronger magnets) almost always to support batteryless operation. * if the weight assembly is trashed (and most of them I've dealt with are), I use a Boyer and a battery with a NEW three-phase charging system. More bucks up-front, but ZERO bullshit down the road. And as anyone who actually leaves their zipcode on an old motorcycle knows, the bullshit route costs more in the end anyway. * If I'm keeping stock Lucas, or other questionable switches and gear I generally put them on a branch circuit using a $12 auto relay. That way the main wiring harness stays very simple and secure but you can keep the stock look. Stock switches seem to be prone to shorting, particularly the old ones. It's not too involved really, I usually put the horn, tri/duo switch, and the ignition cylinder (if stock and sloppy) on this circuit all behind one relay. * I've used the same wiring color scheme forever on all my bikes so I don't have to remember down the road. . . - RED for unswitched hot - BLK for grounds - BLU for lighting - GRN for ignition (and anything that makes it "go") - BRN for brake switch(es) and lamp - Other, depending on what I have around, for all accessories * changing batteries in and out is a hassle when you've got more than one or two leads to the terminals. I either use a central terminal row under the seat for all connections (one spot for each of the colors above) or make a plug-in style pigtail for the battery so I can unplug it by hand to remove/install. * I know many are in favor of multilple circuits with as many fuses. I'm not of that school. I've done just fine with one main fuse that is easily accessible. This works fine if you've done the wiring from scratch and don't have a bunch of wires and shady connections. If you have some expensive electronic bit you'd like to protect, by all means use another inline fuse to that part. * Put everything you MIGHT need to get to on the road where you can ACTUALLY get to it easily. * Put parts that are heat sensitive in areas that get airflow and aren't likely to run hot. * Rubber or foam mount vibration sensitive parts That's about all that comes to mind. Jason Last edited by JasonMcElroy; 08-21-2008 at 09:04 AM. |
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 62
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+1 on the simpler the better. Running Boyer CDI with dual 3ohm coils, tiny 12v battery. Toggle switch on/off and toggle lights. Sticking with positive "earth."
My best advice to anyone doing a 650 unit rebuild or custom is to completely remove the wiring harness and start from scratch. Only leave the two leads from the points cavity and the two coming from the alternator side. Use common colors for wire replacement, like red, black and white. I like to maintain the color theme coming from the points case and alternator case, but since I can't find green/white or green/yellow, I just use green or yellow. I also like to have the ability to plug and unplug stuff for troubleshooting purposes and use quality automotive connectors for the task. Don't be cheap and use crimp on connectors, solder and use heat shrink tubing wherever possible. Having a number of plugs allows you to not only isolate different parts of the system, but to also easily test voltage, resistance and such at the plug. Other than soldered joints, I do my best to use plastic armor to protect exposed wiring, especially coming from the points cavity to the battery box. On wiring runs inside the frame, I make it a point to use a rubber grommet or piece of tubing over the wire to protect it from abrading on the edge of the hole. |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: flint michigan area
Posts: 154
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For what its worth..when I wire up a triumph unit twin....(using a batt)
I use a two wire (actually three wire, one wire is the "charging" wire) harley shovelhead regulator, A dual harley coil..and set my points at about .020, instead of the stock points gap to keep from over saturating the dual harley coil.. seams the stock points gap, "sometimes" tends to over saturate the coil, and cause it to cut out.. biker |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Brunswick, Ohio
Posts: 1,743
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A timely discussion... I was working on wiring my '67 BSA A65L last night till about 12:30..
New points, condenser, dual lead 12v coil, capacitor, podtronics... Also installed a new rotor, my old one was beat. I am actually about to run up the road to Interstate battery and talk to them about a small 12v battery I can run inline as well. Should run fine w/o a battery, once I wire it back up and get it running, I need to test the voltage coming from the rectifier, should be 13.8 - 14v. With that voltage no problem w/o a battery, if it is less than I need to check out my stator. I say this because I had it running when I wired it up quick and dirty but it wouldn't start w/o a battery. It very well could have been the quick connections and a sketchy ground, so I will test it out and see with the nice finish wiring I am doing now. I may switch to a Pazon electronic ignition down the road, the startup voltage is only 8v on a Pazon, while it is something like 11.8v on a Boyer. So even with a weak battery or not as much juice coming from the stator you can start the bike.. Tyler
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Some articles you might enjoy from the Lowbrow Blog: History: What is a Frisco Style Chopper? VIDEO: Comparison & Review of Chopper Oil Tanks How-To: Deciphering Harley-Davidson Model Designations VIDEO: Triumph 650 Engine Disassembly & Rebuild Part 1 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Fort Collins, CO
Posts: 845
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Have inline fuses for the ignition and main power, much better to pop a fuse than having a fire. Someone on here was running push-button reset breakers, another nifty idea. Also, cut those fucking plastic "insulators" off the wire terminals and do it right: solder it and shrink wrap it.
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Banned
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: NOT HERE!!!
Posts: 1,355
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I ended up trimming off all the stuff from the stock harness on my KZ and kept the stuff I needed. I also used in-line blade fuses where I needed them.
Oh yea, the previoius owner had a CB and a regular radio mounted on the bike too. Here's most of the stuff that I cut out: ![]() |
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: York, PA
Posts: 936
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A good thing to use a multimeter for is to test amp draw as well. It'll help you find shorts or problem areas. It'll also help in that, the one thing you should strive for in a electrical system is to draw as little amperage as possible. Your system can only create and filter so much electrical energy. The closer you are to that limit the more problems you will have. That was one of the down falls of the Lucas system. Other than Rude Goldberg circuit design at times, the materials used in the connectors cased the system to draw more energy to cross them, thus causing it to draw more amps. As more amps would draw, BOOM blown rectifier from taxing the system. Two other things heat is your enemy, and use a fuse block or fuse sytem some in there.
One thing I've done is run my entire electrical through a key switch except ignition, which had a separate kill switch. This was a sans battery system, so i had to be conservative with power draw. Hit the kill switch to start. Get her started and warmed up. Then turn the key. One thing I've found with Mity Maxes - wait 5 minutes after you kick it to turn anything but ignition on. Anything before seems to kill it. Don't have that problem with tympaniums and caps. (which I recommend running two of in parallel).
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Vintage and Classic repairs, customs, and restorations. Machine service and piecework design and fabrication as well. |
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Banned
Join Date: May 2005
Location: lost in the sixties....
Posts: 2,857
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TR6's diagram is a good layout. It would work in many applications with only minor changes for different bikes....for instance, on an HD, you would have a single coil, and negative ground. I also switch my triumphs to negative ground...doesn't seem to make any difference, but easier on my brain.
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: San Jose CA
Posts: 1,122
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Here's a simple wiring diagram (possibly the simplest that would still actually work) I did a few years ago for my sporty.
Applicable to any seriously stripped down bike. For AC generator rather than DC, replace the word "generator" with "alternator" if it makes you happy and add "/rectifier" to the word "regulator". It's all the same, really. For three-phase, add one wire between gen/alt and regulator/rectifier. http://www.jasonmcelroy.com/pics/sw_wirediagram.jpg jason |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: T-Town, WA
Posts: 1,603
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This thread couldn't have come at a better time. I'm going to tackle my wiring today using TR6's wiring diagram as a guide. Thanks for all the good input and advice from you guys. I'm pretty good at wiring, but it's always good to have great resources like these.
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 207
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Amen, I wired my bike the weekend after this post. Between this and Wes' cloth wire thread, definitely helped out. I'll get some pictures up soon. I'm pretty happy with the result. However, I wish I could have burned myself less.
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Upstate Fla.
Posts: 7,257
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Here's a real basic one for alternator, magneto, batteryless - ![]() And for generator, points, battery - ![]() And for alternator, points, battery - ![]() . Never pay again for live sex! | Hot girls doing naughty stuff for free! | Chat for free! |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Upstate Fla.
Posts: 7,257
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Two more for British bikes (from the Horse along with the last two above).
Note - a Tympanium or PODtronics regulator/rectifier can be used in place of the MityMax or MiniMite, along with a battery or capacitor. ![]() ![]() . Never pay again for live sex! | Hot girls doing naughty stuff for free! | Chat for free! |
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Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Bartlesville, OK
Posts: 34
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Another trick I use if I need additional wire colors is to take the wire and tie one end to something so I can pull it tight and then take a black sharpie marker and use my finger as a guide using the side of the marker tip and make a stripe on the wire. Works great and doesn't look half bad either.
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Houston Texas
Posts: 179
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On my quest to determine why the brake light on my 73 Bonneville remains on at all times, I ran across a very helpful guide to Troubleshooting Lucas Motorcycle Electrical Systems. So if you are in need take a look at this:
http://www.gabma.us/elec/lucas_ts.pdf |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Upstate Fla.
Posts: 7,257
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Here's a bunch of stock diagrams -
http://smokeriders.com/diagrams/index.php?frames=none Never pay again for live sex! | Hot girls doing naughty stuff for free! | Chat for free! |
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