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Old 03-23-2019, 11:20 AM   #1
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Default Building a pan

The onset, a chopped 56 frame going original.

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Old 03-23-2019, 11:21 AM   #2
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Frame welded and painted, side car mounts, original rake and some other things.

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Old 03-23-2019, 11:23 AM   #3
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On the jack in the garage with wheels, brakes and gear box.

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Old 03-23-2019, 11:31 AM   #4
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Outside with oil tank and head light. The lower triple tree is flipped as some used to do back then when I was a boy, hence the compressed gaiters.[IMG][/IMG]

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Old 03-23-2019, 11:35 AM   #5
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Other side

Next, onto the motor...
My buddy needs to find free time in the machine shop.

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Old 03-23-2019, 12:00 PM   #6
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Tuned in. Looking damn clean
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Old 03-23-2019, 12:27 PM   #7
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Came out swinging. I like it.
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Old 03-23-2019, 12:54 PM   #8
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Yeah, nothing like a quick build. Keep going.
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Old 03-23-2019, 01:36 PM   #9
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This will be good
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Old 03-23-2019, 03:07 PM   #10
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Swinging is an understatement Liam! looks good dude waiting to see more!
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Old 03-26-2019, 02:42 PM   #11
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Pictures from my mates machine shop where he helps me with the engine




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Old 03-26-2019, 02:45 PM   #12
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Old 03-26-2019, 02:58 PM   #13
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Looks like new!!
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Old 03-26-2019, 07:05 PM   #14
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What does flipping the triple tree do?
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Old 03-27-2019, 12:12 AM   #15
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What does flipping the triple tree do?

It was a "custom trick" from easyriders mag vol.1 no.1 if I remember right. Because the underside of the triple tree is smooth and nice looking and the topside has that 3/4" ridge around that is hard to polish it was suggested to remove the stem and flip it over and then weld the stem back in. Maybe looks better on a 16"over glide but does not do anything for me in a stock type arrangement. This is the first time I have seen a bike with such a tree since that tech story 48 years ago.
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Old 03-27-2019, 10:55 AM   #16
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Hello,
I believe the idea behind flipping was to gain stability when running a long fork by decreasing the free length of the fork tubes and also to gain a cleaner look. My opinion is that the increased stability is marginal and the cleaner look really is the thing. Nevertheless, I used to run a chopper, and I liked the modified yoke because it made me nostalgic, so I kept it.
Now when I am buildinga new bike, reuse of old parts laying on the shelf is a way to save cost, and also I prefer old parts and I like this one especially. It is not a stability thing, it is, I do not know what, just the way it came out for now.
If it looks bad, maybe I should buy a stock one then, we will see. Building a bike is much about trying and testing.

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Old 03-27-2019, 04:02 PM   #17
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You must show and tell on this new bike.... please.
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Old 03-28-2019, 02:46 AM   #18
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Right now the engineis under restoration. There are some tricky things to solve, I will try to make a write up when we are done. What is shown in the pictures are: Honing of the a new cylinder, the old ones was -0.60 and finished, honing of a connecting rod. Work with the oil trap which was faulty, block half with a new main bearing and lapped sealing surface. The oil return channel is plugged and also parts after cleaning.
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Old 03-28-2019, 09:51 PM   #19
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I wasn't knocking your bike. It's part of your history and will be a talking point from now on. I look forward to the tank and exhaust choice.
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Old 04-01-2019, 12:10 AM   #20
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Wow, missed the inverted triple tree, but it's a cool story. I learn things on JJ every time I'm on here.
Have'ta watch this build.
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Old 04-02-2019, 03:47 AM   #21
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Default Re: Building a pan

Looking good and good write up with pictures.
Russ would have liked this thread.

I'd like to see more photos of that flipped tree if possible?
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Old 04-04-2019, 07:43 AM   #22
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Nice project

[/QUOTE]

What year is the engine? I see Timken left side so it's 55 and newer. I see an inner cam bushing so it's 57 and older. OK so it's most likely a 55-57 and you did say the frame was 56 so...

Then I look at this pic and wonder. Harley big twins in general are great for mix and match but there are also times that it don't work out so good.

What has me wondering is... Those look to be newer flywheels but I cold be wrong. Note the large diameter sprocket shaft hole in the left side flywheel that was first used on 73 shovelheads. (the lower one in this pic). Then I see a set of spline type pinion shaft gears that were last used in 1953.


Was this a complete engine or are you simply gathering parts to put it together? You may be setting yourself up with miss matched collection of parts there. Pinion shafts, pinion bearings and races, pinion gears and even cam covers and their bushings did a lot of changes during the 50's making interchange a bit tricky. Then to get a pre electric start length sprocket shaft that will fit the larger diameter taper of 73 and newer might be also a bit hard.
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Old 04-04-2019, 10:34 AM   #23
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Bigger taper was in 1972.
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Old 04-06-2019, 04:26 AM   #24
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I am not much of a fabricator. But i manufactured a seat post seat stay (or what it might be called...).
The flapping disc is my friend.

[IMG]


[/IMG]

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Old 04-06-2019, 04:31 AM   #25
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As requested, some pictures of the flipped triple tree.

[IMG][IMG][/IMG][/IMG]
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Old 04-06-2019, 04:32 AM   #26
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Old 04-06-2019, 04:39 AM   #27
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And about the engine. The right block half is from the fifties (just now, I do not remember exactly what year, I think 54 or maybe 57, not 56), the left is after market probably eighties. Everything is written down on paper as the engine is restored. But the engine and the notes are at my friends machine shop and I don not remember the details at this moment. I will do a write up when the engine s done.
I bought the engine as is, more or less finished but running. And yes, it is an old concoction and I like it.
When I started riding bikes thirty-five years ago, I could not afford a Harley. I had to settle for Triumphs, which were cheap at the time. I looked up to the Harley guys, they flipped fork yokes and modified their Panheads with large diameter sprocket shafts... This makes me very nostalgic, and I like modifications from back then or even earlier when I was a boy..

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Old 04-19-2019, 05:41 AM   #28
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Dilemma...
I like the custom tank itself very much, i also like the gap since i am not going to run a speedo. It is unpainted so I need to choose color which is kind of fun.
But I do not like the way it sits...

Also, i like old paint with patina better than new which speaks for the old tank. And in fact, I am not totally discontent with the speedo-gap, i makes the bike look "home made" and not factory. I like a home crafted look better than factory, sort of the way it was. Nostalgia again



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Old 04-19-2019, 10:55 AM   #29
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With the engine out of the frame, it's hard to see how the tank will look. But it is a bit odd in back; can you modify the tank mounts so that it sits a little lower at the rear, like 25-35mm?

Really good-looking bike you have there. The no-nonsense handlebars are mighty fine.

When you've finished -- er, "finished" -- it and put some miles/km on it, please post about the front brake's performance, or lack of same. The rotor looks a bit small to deal with the weight it has to slow down. I'd be happy to learn that it works well, or fairly well. Sure looks good.
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Old 04-19-2019, 05:47 PM   #30
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Ratso is correct but the front needs to go down also. If you look at those two pics you can see that the first set sits much lower than the second set.
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Old 05-27-2019, 02:55 PM   #31
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I finally found the time to test fit the crank case in the frame. The case was bolted down in the aft motor mount. A big gap then showed itself in the front
Not good.
We took measurements and now need to machine the mount surface for better fitment

.

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Old 05-27-2019, 04:03 PM   #32
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NO! That space is shimmed. If the gap is different on each side your frame is bent. Get a factory manual so you can avoid most of the well meaning mistakes.
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Old 05-27-2019, 05:49 PM   #33
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Just noticed the evil gnome scuttling out of the shrubbery to vandalize your primary side.
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Old 05-28-2019, 09:29 AM   #34
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NO! That space is shimmed. If the gap is different on each side your frame is bent. Get a factory manual so you can avoid most of the well meaning mistakes.
Sorry, I didn’t tell the whole story. The thing is that the left crank case is aftermarket (California products) and the engine mount surface is not level, there is a step.
I want to machine this level.
The engine is taken from a donor bike and has been run like this. I am surprised that the crank case didn't crack, I have seen that before.
It will be shimmed in the end.
Most of the machining execpt this is done, so soon the assembling of the engine will start. Just need to measure the crank case/frame gap ones again when the surface is done.

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Old 05-28-2019, 09:36 AM   #35
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Just noticed the evil gnome scuttling out of the shrubbery to vandalize your primary side.
Haha, the evil gnome is very nice I reality. It is not me, I am even more gnome-like.
His name is Hans and I dare to say he is one of the most knowledgeable Harley restorers in my country and he is measuring the gap with a feeler gauge.
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Old 05-28-2019, 10:13 AM   #36
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Milling is in order for the bottom of the case mounts if they are not even and parallel. There should be a gap to be shimmed to the frame under the front mount. Back mount gets bolted down then front mount gets measured and shimmed.
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Old 02-26-2020, 04:52 AM   #37
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Hello,

Some info about the engine.

Crank case:
Right case:1957 original H-D.
Left:California Products aftermarket.
Crank: -72 to-81 H-D
Rods: Harley original
Generator cover: -55 to -57 H-D.
Oil pump: -50 till -52 H-D.
Tappethousing: H-D Shovelhead.

Cylinders, heads and ”distributor" are after market..

The right casing is marked ”5-5”, so the casting is done may 1955. The bearing race is-54 and the right pinion is -54 or earlier. The case has been chromed and de-chromed.

Left case is California products after market. Remember ads in old easy rider magazines
The bearing is the type that came -69. The pinion is custom, the big cone in order to fit the fly wheel from -72 but with the length as a -55 to -64.
The fly wheels are cone shovel, 1200 stroke. It is the pinion is without key. It is checked with marking ink so it should work well hopefully. The crank is balanced with a 60% factor.

The oilpump is Harley cast iron.
The tappet guides are shovel head. The tappets are hydraulic ones from the start but made rigid.


More pictures to come.


Best
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Old 02-26-2020, 08:56 AM   #38
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If you are assembling this, motor sprocket shaft must be torqued to 400 ft lbs. Use red Locktite on the nut, don't use any on the taper. Taper must be clean and dry. Do not use the lock on the nut.
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Old 02-26-2020, 03:37 PM   #39
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[IMG][IMG][IMG][IMG][IMG][/IMG][/IMG][/IMG][/IMG][/IMG]
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Old 02-26-2020, 03:40 PM   #40
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Old 02-26-2020, 03:43 PM   #41
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Old 02-26-2020, 03:44 PM   #42
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Old 02-26-2020, 03:58 PM   #43
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Now at least it starts to look like a bike. Mostly lighting and electrics left to do. I also, just now realize, looking at the picture, I need to adress chain fender clearance/fender fitment. I've used an old fender I had laying around...


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Old 04-12-2020, 06:33 AM   #44
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First start and first ride. This feels great. The motor works just as good as i hoped. Took some time to figure out starting procedures, cold, medium hot and hot. But I think I've got it now, especially medium may be a pain with a Super E.
But, first rides are never problem free for me, I am not that meticulous. First the cable came lose from the points inside the distributor cover. I did not figure this out road side so it was the trailer home to the shop. Second ride, the hand shifter snapped, after market junk. Trailer home once again. Good thing my oldest son has his drivers license. But this is trivial. Also the clutch hits the cover when disengaged, I have not figured out yet how to fix this. Nevertheless, first rides are always a great feeling

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Old 04-12-2020, 06:35 AM   #45
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Old 04-12-2020, 06:43 AM   #46
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Turned out really good! looks great sir.
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Old 04-12-2020, 07:23 AM   #47
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Turned out really good! looks great sir.
Thank you, very much appreciated
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Old 04-12-2020, 11:17 AM   #48
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wireless remote shifter? Bike looks great.
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Old 04-13-2020, 08:23 AM   #49
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wireless remote shifter? Bike looks great.
Haha, yes but it didn't work that well, so I had to convert it back to old school again.
Also, thank you sir, means a lot.

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