Building a pan

[[JP]]

Looking good and good write up with pictures.
Russ would have liked this thread.

I'd like to see more photos of that flipped tree if possible?

[dan r]

Nice project

[/QUOTE]

What year is the engine? I see Timken left side so it's 55 and newer. I see an inner cam bushing so it's 57 and older. OK so it's most likely a 55-57 and you did say the frame was 56 so...

Then I look at this pic and wonder. Harley big twins in general are great for mix and match but there are also times that it don't work out so good.

What has me wondering is... Those look to be newer flywheels but I cold be wrong. Note the large diameter sprocket shaft hole in the left side flywheel that was first used on 73 shovelheads. (the lower one in this pic). Then I see a set of spline type pinion shaft gears that were last used in 1953.


Was this a complete engine or are you simply gathering parts to put it together? You may be setting yourself up with miss matched collection of parts there. Pinion shafts, pinion bearings and races, pinion gears and even cam covers and their bushings did a lot of changes during the 50's making interchange a bit tricky. Then to get a pre electric start length sprocket shaft that will fit the larger diameter taper of 73 and newer might be also a bit hard.

[joe49]

Bigger taper was in 1972.

[tgb3040]

I am not much of a fabricator. But i manufactured a seat post seat stay (or what it might be called...).
The flapping disc is my friend.

[IMG]


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[tgb3040]

As requested, some pictures of the flipped triple tree.

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[tgb3040]

[tgb3040]

And about the engine. The right block half is from the fifties (just now, I do not remember exactly what year, I think 54 or maybe 57, not 56), the left is after market probably eighties. Everything is written down on paper as the engine is restored. But the engine and the notes are at my friends machine shop and I don not remember the details at this moment. I will do a write up when the engine s done.
I bought the engine as is, more or less finished but running. And yes, it is an old concoction and I like it.
When I started riding bikes thirty-five years ago, I could not afford a Harley. I had to settle for Triumphs, which were cheap at the time. I looked up to the Harley guys, they flipped fork yokes and modified their Panheads with large diameter sprocket shafts... This makes me very nostalgic, and I like modifications from back then or even earlier when I was a boy..

[tgb3040]

Dilemma...
I like the custom tank itself very much, i also like the gap since i am not going to run a speedo. It is unpainted so I need to choose color which is kind of fun.
But I do not like the way it sits...

Also, i like old paint with patina better than new which speaks for the old tank. And in fact, I am not totally discontent with the speedo-gap, i makes the bike look "home made" and not factory. I like a home crafted look better than factory, sort of the way it was. Nostalgia again

[Ratso]

With the engine out of the frame, it's hard to see how the tank will look. But it is a bit odd in back; can you modify the tank mounts so that it sits a little lower at the rear, like 25-35mm?

Really good-looking bike you have there. The no-nonsense handlebars are mighty fine.

When you've finished -- er, "finished" -- it and put some miles/km on it, please post about the front brake's performance, or lack of same. The rotor looks a bit small to deal with the weight it has to slow down. I'd be happy to learn that it works well, or fairly well. Sure looks good.

[KCgran]

Ratso is correct but the front needs to go down also. If you look at those two pics you can see that the first set sits much lower than the second set.

[tgb3040]

I finally found the time to test fit the crank case in the frame. The case was bolted down in the aft motor mount. A big gap then showed itself in the front
Not good.
We took measurements and now need to machine the mount surface for better fitment

.

[joe49]

NO! That space is shimmed. If the gap is different on each side your frame is bent. Get a factory manual so you can avoid most of the well meaning mistakes.

[Ratso]

Just noticed the evil gnome scuttling out of the shrubbery to vandalize your primary side.

[tgb3040]

Originally Posted by joe49

NO! That space is shimmed. If the gap is different on each side your frame is bent. Get a factory manual so you can avoid most of the well meaning mistakes.

Sorry, I didn’t tell the whole story. The thing is that the left crank case is aftermarket (California products) and the engine mount surface is not level, there is a step.
I want to machine this level.
The engine is taken from a donor bike and has been run like this. I am surprised that the crank case didn't crack, I have seen that before.
It will be shimmed in the end.
Most of the machining execpt this is done, so soon the assembling of the engine will start. Just need to measure the crank case/frame gap ones again when the surface is done.

[tgb3040]

Originally Posted by Ratso

Just noticed the evil gnome scuttling out of the shrubbery to vandalize your primary side.

Haha, the evil gnome is very nice I reality. It is not me, I am even more gnome-like.
His name is Hans and I dare to say he is one of the most knowledgeable Harley restorers in my country and he is measuring the gap with a feeler gauge.

[joe49]

Milling is in order for the bottom of the case mounts if they are not even and parallel. There should be a gap to be shimmed to the frame under the front mount. Back mount gets bolted down then front mount gets measured and shimmed.

[tgb3040]

Hello,

Some info about the engine.

Crank case:
Right case:1957 original H-D.
Left:California Products aftermarket.
Crank: -72 to-81 H-D
Rods: Harley original
Generator cover: -55 to -57 H-D.
Oil pump: -50 till -52 H-D.
Tappethousing: H-D Shovelhead.

Cylinders, heads and ”distributor" are after market..

The right casing is marked ”5-5”, so the casting is done may 1955. The bearing race is-54 and the right pinion is -54 or earlier. The case has been chromed and de-chromed.

Left case is California products after market. Remember ads in old easy rider magazines
The bearing is the type that came -69. The pinion is custom, the big cone in order to fit the fly wheel from -72 but with the length as a -55 to -64.
The fly wheels are cone shovel, 1200 stroke. It is the pinion is without key. It is checked with marking ink so it should work well hopefully. The crank is balanced with a 60% factor.

The oilpump is Harley cast iron.
The tappet guides are shovel head. The tappets are hydraulic ones from the start but made rigid.


More pictures to come.


Best

[joe49]

If you are assembling this, motor sprocket shaft must be torqued to 400 ft lbs. Use red Locktite on the nut, don't use any on the taper. Taper must be clean and dry. Do not use the lock on the nut.

[tgb3040]

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[tgb3040]