Disk Brake Conversion on Wishbone Frame

[Ratso]

That's a kindly offer. You guys knock me out.

Fredo, I momentarily forget where I saw it, but I've seen a nice-looking old (springer era) stock H-D brake that was converted to twin leading shoe. Given that the stock drum size is only, what, 7"?, and given that a big twin weighs, what, 4 tons?, I wouldn't expect it to ever be a great brake. But a TLS conversion might make a real big improvement, along with looking cool as hell to people who understand what they're looking at. Would something like that appeal to you?

I agree that a big ol' disc and a stockish springer combine to make a pretty homely spectacle. And come to think of it, don't many of you knowledgeable guys have doubts about whether the springer is stout enough to cope with a lot of front brake? ... I think I ought to shut up now.

[dbkp]

how's this

[Ratso]

Pretty! I wonder how it works.

[hammerweight]

Originally Posted by Ratso

Maybe I am wrong and should be shot for it, but a quick reread doesn't show me that your mention of the (characteristicall, I guess?) horrible front brake went anywhere in terms of attracting advice. Here I am to save the day.

You probly don't need me to tell you that on a bike with two functional brakes, the front handles, like, 85% of the stopping. A good back brake is only as effective as traction allows. You can lock up your hind wheel easy, but then it'll just skate along helplessly. (I'm overstating this, but not by much.) Rear-to-front redistribution of the bike's weight takes place when it slows down abruptly, by whatever means (engine braking, back brake, t-boning a school bus). If you're using a front brake, that weight transfer is good; using the back brake, it makes matters worse.

If your bike was mine, which, I should be so lucky, I'd fix the rear brake enough so it doesn't break when used; but I'd put my effort and money into a real good, or even a pretty good, front disc.

I know a disc is an anachronism on a Pan, and yeah there are aesthetic arguments for running a spool front or an incompetent period-correct front brake, but you're already talking about running a disc, so why not put it where it'll help you the most?

End of sermon.

Choir here....
I agree, and have the anachronistic rotor on my Pan.
However, I am consoled when riding among the great unwashed that I can actually stop.
Hallelujah!

[hammerweight]

Wonder if you could hide a cable controlled master to run the juiced up front drum??
...or same for a later rear juice drum, using the cross shaft etc.?
Just some thoughts I’ve had considering my repop knuckle project (maybe!)...haha.

[govmule84]

Fredo, do you have any interest in making that mechanical rear work correctly? 'Cause to me, that's the easiest and cheapest.

And they work fine if they're not all fucked up.

[Ratso]

One last squeak from the Peanut Gallery:

http://victorylibrary.com/tech/harley-2LS-c.htm

[richbob]

I had a BMW R100s (1982?)it was cable to a remote cylinder under the tank and had twin shoes up front.

[[JP]]

Originally Posted by hammerweight

Wonder if you could hide a cable controlled master to run the juiced up front drum??
...or same for a later rear juice drum, using the cross shaft etc.?
Just some thoughts I’ve had considering my repop knuckle project (maybe!)...haha.

yep, fab kevin used to make a kit like that years ago.
disc brake, master hidden under the tank, pretty simple setup, can be done using a sports bike rear master.

https://www.fabkevin.com/shop/parts/...ster-cylinder/

[VonWegener]

Just for Ratso's amusement W&W makes a hydraulic front drum brake for knucklehead springers.

[govmule84]

Originally Posted by VonWegener

Just for Ratso's amusement W&W makes a hydraulic front drum brake for knucklehead springers.

You know what works real fuckin' good on a Harley chopper?

A drum brake.

If the olds won't be the hard-line traditionalists, then I'll step up and take that on these broad shoulders. Fredo, let's make your drum work right.

[rhysmort]

Originally Posted by govmule84

You know what works real fuckin' good on a Harley chopper?

A drum brake.

If the olds won't be the hard-line traditionalists, then I'll step up and take that on these broad shoulders. Fredo, let's make your drum work right.

Agreed, Liam. My mech drum brakes have worked and work better than the juice I had on my pan. They also have a much nicer progressive feel. They work well, something is up with Fredo's alignment/spacing and/or frame. If it's snapping linkages and rattling, something aint running true!

[richbob]

yea my nearly bone stock(really heavy)39 locks up fine
and i have the twin leading shoe conversion up front which is pretty useless.

[rhysmort]

Originally Posted by richbob

yea my nearly bone stock(really heavy)39 locks up fine
and i have the twin leading shoe conversion up front which is pretty useless.

Yeah the flatty was much bulkier than my knuck, stopped super well. I'm a strong advocate for mech drums!

[FredoTwoWheels]

I have the dual cam front brake drum on the springer from Cannonball. It barely holds me on a hill, bought it brand new. I'm not opposed to keeping the rear mechanical if it would be more reliable and not rattle the entire bike louder than my exhaust. I have already replaced the pads and had the drum turned at a racing brake shop in Costa Mesa. Paughco backing plate (my second one, both rattled) and I dont remember if it is a Paughco drum too. I have had the thought of bringing the bike to someone and just paying them to setup the brakes just to have a baseline and see if they noticed anything I didnt that is causing these to suck so much. But if anyone has any tips for what to look for, the bike is on the lift and I am all ears.

Paughco is out of the clevis at the end of the rod, and they dont know when they will do a run. My brake rod broke off inside of mine, and I will try to extract it but I'm not very good at welding yet, so idk if I can make the old trick work where I weld a nut ont the snapped off stud to extract. I dont want any V-Twin if I can avoid it, so I may run a grade 80 chain from the crossover shaft to the actuator lever on the backing plate for the time being, which would circumvent the clevis. Any strong objections to this?

[VonWegener]

Fredo, just because it is Paughco doesn't mean it's perfect. I have a brand new brake rod and clevis I will give you for free. Just don't ask where it was made. It's W&W but....
Regarding your backing plate. If the plate is loose you are missing spacers. It should be held inplace tight by the axle. If the swedged in adjuster are loose you have to throw it away The cam cannot rattle as there are two springs forcing it to sit in its bushing. The whole setup needs up close inspection by an expert.
I just thought are you running mids with the linkage in a push instead of pull environment?
It wasn't designed for that.

Please pm me your address so that I can mail out the rod and clevis

[rhysmort]

Originally Posted by VonWegener

Fredo, just because it is Paughco doesn't mean it's perfect. I have a brand new brake rod and clevis I will give you for free. Just don't ask where it was made. It's W&W but....
Regarding your backing plate. If the plate is loose you are missing spacers. It should be held inplace tight by the axle. If the swedged in adjuster are loose you have to throw it away The cam cannot rattle as there are two springs forcing it to sit in its bushing. The whole setup needs up close inspection by an expert.
I just thought are you running mids with the linkage in a push instead of pull environment?
It wasn't designed for that.

Please pm me your address so that I can mail out the rod and clevis

Really good of you Mike,

I run mine push as a have a Di jong pedal, but I had to upgrade to 1/2 inch stainless to make it work! lots of machine work and a lesson off the old man in threading a bar!

Fredo, as Mike has said you're missing a spacer. My Backing plate is SNUG SNUG. There shouldn't be any movement at all. When they're set right, there shouldn't be anything under huge tension. When you get new bits do yourself a favour, drill out the hole don't use a clevis and put a bolt and nylock nut on it. I have it on mine, works a treat.

[Speeding Big Twin]

Maybe this Shop Dope will help?








Do you have the wrong axle? Normally for 48–57 BTs the end is hex-headed. Yours looks 47-earlier? However, according to Palmer both are about 11-1/16” long. Palmer says the spacer is 2-1/4” long for 36 Knuckles and 37–57 BTs.
Eric

[rhysmort]

Originally Posted by Speeding Big Twin

Maybe this Shop Dope will help?








Do you have the wrong axle? Normally for 48–57 BTs the end is hex-headed. Yours looks 47-earlier? However, according to Palmer both are about 11-1/16” long. Palmer says the spacer is 2-1/4” long for 36 Knuckles and 37–57 BTs.
Eric

I'm fairly sure they're interchangeable Eric, great images though!

[VonWegener]

The axles are the same except for the head. I'm kinda partial to the earlier head just because it is so different antique looking.