Pan Primary chain replacement step by step wanted

[curtisvitoria]

I managed to get the trans far enough forward to slip the chain around the clutch basket. My chain is pretty old and crusty, and probably stretched a fair bit also.
Anybody pull off the reverse method with a new chain?

Looked for a step by step for this procedure and nothing .

Thanks

[S.T.P.]

Buy a service manual. Everyone else has spent the money and took the time to read it why should anyone just hand it to you. Are you special!?!

[CarlLaFong]

Today's "Dickheaded Answer of the Day" award winner
Congratulations

[curtisvitoria]

Yeah thanks STP!
I do have a Panhead service manual, I was looking for some hands on experience answers HERE. (tricks,tips etc....)
There is nothing in the manual saying that I could slip my old primary chain without removing the basket or front sprocket.....but I did.
On a side note, I was planning on going PAPER FREE this year.

[little d]

I can't say I've heard of anyone getting a chain off with out takin the basket off with it, let alone a new one on so you may be teaching us all a new trick here.

[S.T.P.]

Hey. Your welcome. The trick to getting it off is to pull the clutch hub with the correct puller. Then the engine sprocket comes off. After you've done those steps you loosen the 4 nuts under the trans, slide it forward (if needed). Now put the chain on the front sprocket and the clutch basket. Install the basket and sprocket at the same time. Snug up the nuts that hold both on. Now slide your trans back to adjust the chain. Tighten the 4 nuts under the trans. Now use your jam bar in between the engine sprocket and the clutch basket, tighten the clutch hub nut to the proper torque along with the engine sprocket.
Now I bet if you read the manual it will say something real similar.
It's a 30 min job if you drink 3 beers while installing it.

[croucho]

Thats a sweet looking ride you got there..

[M.O.Ther]

S.T.P.'s methodology is sound and pretty much what's in the manual. Except in the manual they use a special tool to hold the clutch hub and tighten it before you slip the basket on. It's just an old clutch plate with a bar welded or bolted to it, slipped over the clutch hub studs and braced against the ground or bench. If you have an early Panhead or a Knucklehead you need to take care to line up the key on the motor shaft while you're slipping the chain/basket/sprocket "assembly" on.

Chain "stretch" is a misnomer. The metal doesn't stretch. It's just the combined wear on all the pins and bushings. The initial "stretch" is just everything bedding in. After that, it's the chain wearing out, which happens a lot slower if it stays lubricated.

If you were able to slip your old chain around the clutch basket, it's junk. Back in the day, we'd fit some kind of a buckle and use the old primary chains as a belt. It only works on jeans that are tight enough to not need a belt in the first place, 'cause they're pretty heavy. But it did make for a handy weapon you wouldn't get jammed up for carrying. And eventually, someone started selling chromed primary chain belts in the catalogs.

[curtisvitoria]

Thanks for the info!
Little D, I did manage to slip the chain off over the basket with the clutch still together.
I guess it was that stretched and Fakked.

Well I guess I will wait for my order to arrive and put it back together.

Thanks again!

[little d]

As STP mentioned, the rollers and pins will seat it after running for a short time so be ready to readjust.

When I built my 80FLT, I wanted to step up the motor sprocket to drop the rpm at cruse speed, the twincam motor sprocket is taller so I got one and tried it. I had to run the new chain for a few hundred miles to seat it until it would fit but, after it worked great, dropped a coupla hundred rpm. The point is, don't be afraid to experiment to "dial" it in to where ya want.

[S.T.P.]

I forgot about the clutch hub tool. Mine is a a worn out fiber plate welded to a warped steel plate. This locks the hub and basket together then you can use your handy jam bar for tightening both nuts.

[Dave B]

If you leave old clutch plates outside evetually the fiber part will separate and you can weld a handle to the steel center , making this tool. Don' t breath any asbestos if you mechanically remove the fiber part.

[johnflorida]

My hub tool is a piece of scrap plywood with holes drilled in it

[curtisvitoria]

Is this the caveman method?

[little d]

LOL, call it what ya will but, it works and has for years, kinda like adjusting the ignition cam lobe with a hammer, a little rough but, gets the job done.

[curtisvitoria]

Ok new primary chain on, replaced with new 82 link diamond, old was a stretched 82 link diamond. Counted both several times.
With tranny all the way forward, I barely got the new chain on. Really tight!!!!
Started bike thinking things would fall into place and chain would loosen off.
Still really tight, like guitar string tight. No slack, I'm lost.
Info please.

[TDWZ28]

How many teeth on the motor sprocket? May be bigger than stock.

[curtisvitoria]

24 tooth on motor sprocket

[TDWZ28]

If the trans is as far forward as it will go, meaning it is almost touching the seat post, I can't think of anything other than sprocket size that would cause the problem. I don't remember if a 23 or 24 is stock, for that matter, I don't know what you have for a drive-line. Do a little digging around and find out if the 24 is too big. It sounds like it is.

[S.T.P.]

http://www.hydra-glide.com/panhead_facts.php
This has the sprocket sizes go 49-54