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Old 02-01-2012, 08:04 PM   #41
Frank D
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Default Re: Build Thread: 1967 Triumph

Question: a local motorcycle shop has a set of hepolite pistons complete with rings, wrist pins, circlips for $350. Is this too much money? I am aware that hepolites are preferred over Taiwanese pistons and rings but $350 seems like a a lot of money to spend.. Thoughts?
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Old 03-04-2012, 09:04 PM   #42
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Did some polishing today. A true test of patience....
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Old 03-04-2012, 09:07 PM   #43
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And the rockers...
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Old 03-04-2012, 10:19 PM   #44
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Default Re: Build Thread: 1967 Triumph

nice work. what ever happened with the lacing of that rear?
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Old 03-05-2012, 02:47 AM   #45
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Default Re: Build Thread: 1967 Triumph

Im curious about the valves once they sit on those seats...looks like the plug or the other valve may have a bit of possible contact? What size are the valves?
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Old 03-05-2012, 04:14 AM   #46
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Default Re: Build Thread: 1967 Triumph

The valve seats look very sunken to me,to the point where they didn't just cut the seats,but started to cut into the aluminium chamber.

It would have been better to fit new seat inserts,instead of cutting away the chamber.It's easy to cut off,but not so easy to put back.

I think you'll be needing more than 1/16" shim under the valve springs'to get any reasonable spring load.
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Old 03-05-2012, 06:06 AM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by godspeedbrokenpress View Post
nice work. what ever happened with the lacing of that rear?
It relaced the wheel again and it seems to be right now. The spoke angles look correct and the nipples also have a uniform bite on the spokes. I started truing the wheel and the rim itself seems to be so out of wack that I was was having trouble so Im going to have someone who knows what they are doing take a look at it for me.
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Old 03-05-2012, 09:02 AM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Pete View Post
The valve seats look very sunken to me,to the point where they didn't just cut the seats,but started to cut into the aluminium chamber.

It would have been better to fit new seat inserts,instead of cutting away the chamber.It's easy to cut off,but not so easy to put back.

I think you'll be needing more than 1/16" shim under the valve springs'to get any reasonable spring load.
I may be wrong here because I'm not too knowledgeable in regard to head work; however when this was done I was there and asked that he show me how to do this type of work. The cutter had a rather dynamic (curved) design to it so a lot of the cutting you see falls behind where the valve makes contact with the inside if the cylinder head.

If I do infact have trouble with the valves sitting too low how could I fix this? Can the seats be TIG welded to provide fresh metal and then remachined?
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Old 03-10-2014, 08:54 PM   #49
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Make sure you preheat the metal if you plan on doing any welding on your frame with that 110v. They just arnt made for anything more than sheet metal.
I haven't built a bike yet so loffer may know something I don't. But ive done lots of welding with that exact welder and your 140 should more than handle welding your frame.
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Old 03-10-2014, 09:07 PM   #50
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Wow nothing like commenting on a post THEN realizing its two years old. :|
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Old 03-10-2014, 10:05 PM   #51
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Smile Re: Build Thread: 1967 Triumph

LMAO...bring em back bro..
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Old 03-10-2014, 11:26 PM   #52
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Lol i was looking forward to the end results wonder if he ever finished it.
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Old 03-11-2014, 01:37 AM   #53
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Default Re: Build Thread: 1967 Triumph

Mr Pete was here at my shed a few months back to work on a 68 head which had been machined/skimmed to the fins, also had sunken seats.
There was not much squish band left so Pete relieved the meat around the previous valve CUT using a hand tool he'd made only taking material from the top half, proud of the CUT.
The guy who machined Franks has relieved material ALL the way around and removed the squish band. I wouldn't be too keen on work like that but the guys who get worn heads done would know more than me, I'd sure be interested to hear more comments.

Last edited by Daddy Boy; 03-11-2014 at 01:45 AM.
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