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Old 07-28-2015, 01:31 AM   #1
curtisvitoria
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Default Making a checklist turning pan/shov back to PAN

General checklist please add/remove Thanks!!!

1. Panheads-Have
2. D-rings, Hardware & gaskets- on order
3. Panhead Cylinders and Pistons- Have back, need front
3. Solid Pushrods & Tubes- Need Tubes
4. Intake- on order
5. Pipes and Clamps-need

Anything Else? thanks again!
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Old 07-28-2015, 06:22 AM   #2
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Default Re: Making a checklist turning pan/shov back to PAN

Doesn't something have to get blocked off on your cam cover? And I think the tappet blocks might need swapped, too.

I haven't done this myself, but I also was thinking the cam might be an issue, too. If you have some wild-ass cam, well... the rocker arm ratios are different, I believe.
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Old 07-28-2015, 06:38 AM   #3
curtisvitoria
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Don't know about the blocks, can someone confirm?
Cylinders yes still in need of front.
As for cam, I still have stock.
Question on pistons, what compression should I get? I see there are numerous options in terms of compression.
My cylinders will be .020 over.
Thanks
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Old 07-28-2015, 02:01 PM   #4
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Default Re: Making a checklist turning pan/shov back to PAN

Curtis,
The regular old generic 8.5 to 1 pistons are a good choice if you are using a stock cam as you've said. They are a bit higher compression than the original pistons, but still low enough compression to run most any type of "gas" you can buy without encountering problems. Easy starting too. My choice for a regular street and hi-way Pan. As far as I know, it doesn't matter too much who you buy them from, they all come from the same factory. The last set I bought came in a box labeled "Superior". Buy your pistons first, and give them to your machinist so he can measure them and and then accurately bore and hone your cylinders to fit. On your lifter blocks - I assume that they are the same ones you've been running in the motor, so its more of a matter of making sure that your tappets and pushrods are compatible.

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Last edited by old.wrench; 07-28-2015 at 02:11 PM. Reason: added some mo
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Old 07-28-2015, 06:31 PM   #5
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Default Re: Making a checklist turning pan/shov back to PAN

A linkert carb maybe?
Wish mine had one anyway
What you doing with lube to the heads?

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Old 07-29-2015, 01:47 AM   #6
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Default Re: Making a checklist turning pan/shov back to PAN

Thanks old wrench!
Lester I will be running my Super E I've been using, maybe a linker one day.
Currently I am running outside oilers on my Shovelheads.
Best option outside oilers on pan?

Thanks
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Old 07-29-2015, 03:56 AM   #7
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Default Re: Making a checklist turning pan/shov back to PAN

Yes I would recommend outside oilers, you'll have to take a look at you heads to see if you need some mods to accept this. no big deal.

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Old 07-29-2015, 10:40 AM   #8
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Default Re: Making a checklist turning pan/shov back to PAN

If your panheads are not already outside oilers, there is a bit of machine work needed to make them work that way. You'll need to find someone who has the jig the drill through the head at the correct angle to meet the existing oil feed galley. And on my heads, I also welded up the feed hole in the head gasket surface. You'll need to machine away the fins in the area where you drilled the new outside oiler galley.

-Craig

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Old 07-29-2015, 01:34 PM   #9
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Default Re: Making a checklist turning pan/shov back to PAN

A seasoned machinist will not need a jig to do this.... but if he has one its a big help.
May find someone on here that will do it for you. Anyways... what does your heads look like.... may already be done. Outside oiling is the best way to go at the stage you are at right now.


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Old 07-29-2015, 03:35 PM   #10
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Default Re: Making a checklist turning pan/shov back to PAN

I wouldn't waste the time or effort on the outside oiling mod to the heads if your running a basically stock motor.

I own both types of panhead motors, internal oiling and external oiling and there is absolutely no difference in how they run or perform.
I under the external oiling might be more efficient, but its certainly not a necessity, and definitely not a necessity at the price some machining places will charge you to do the modification.
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Old 07-29-2015, 03:37 PM   #11
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You guys figure outside oilers are a must?
I have a couple buddies running them without, and have no issues.
Please explain.
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Old 07-29-2015, 03:42 PM   #12
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Default Re: Making a checklist turning pan/shov back to PAN

Quote:
Originally Posted by curtisvitoria View Post
You guys figure outside oilers are a must?
I have a couple buddies running them without, and have no issues.
Please explain.
Consider that the factory made non outside oilers from 1948-1963 (I might be off a year or 2 here) I would say they are in no way shape or form a must

Like I said above I have several non outside oiler panhead motors on the road that see a lot of abuse and don't skip a beat
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Old 07-29-2015, 04:01 PM   #13
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Default Re: Making a checklist turning pan/shov back to PAN

You don't really need new pushrod tubes, just the upper clips. The Panhead ones are shorter. Or if money is really tight, I'm sure you could get a measurement here and shorten the ones you have.
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Old 07-29-2015, 04:33 PM   #14
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Default Re: Making a checklist turning pan/shov back to PAN

Thanks Ralphie & M.O.

Yeah Ralphie I would rather not dig into these old heads if I don't have to.
I would consider it if it were crucial for better oiling, from what I have read it states the oiling is cooler with external, but nothing beyond that???

I think I will get my barrels machined and just run them with new pistons.
Are the solid pushrods good enough or should I run something else.

Also do you guys prefer the thread or clamp on the intake?
I have one threaded nipple that turns, and will have to get it sorted.

I will be running a s&s plumber with a super E for now.
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Old 07-29-2015, 05:03 PM   #15
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Default Re: Making a checklist turning pan/shov back to PAN

Outside oilers is not a "must" in my book unless you dual plug the heads. When you dual plug the heads, the second plug goes right through the oil supply galley. You have to find some other way to feed oil to the rockers. That's the reason I added outside oil fittings to my heads.

-Craig
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Old 07-29-2015, 05:38 PM   #16
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Default Re: Making a checklist turning pan/shov back to PAN

Curtis,
Solid pushrods are fine, but you need to make sure that the pushrod ends are correct for the Panhead rocker arms. That is why I said that your existing lifter blocks should be O.K., but you needed to make sure about the tappets being compatible with the pushrod ends. If I'm not mistaken, Shovel pushrod ends and Pan pushrod ends are different .

I''m also "cool" with running my rocker oil up through the cylinders; running outside oil might drop the oil temp a few degrees, but my old motor has seen a lot of miles with the old original through-the-cylinder oiling.

Either the plumber or the O-ring manifold are fine, especially since we now have the PEEK seals for the plumber manifolds. If you run a plumber manifold you'll need to get an adapter for your S&S carb - no big deal.
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Last edited by old.wrench; 07-29-2015 at 05:43 PM. Reason: add mo
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Old 07-29-2015, 05:56 PM   #17
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Default Re: Making a checklist turning pan/shov back to PAN

No not a must but it was done as an improvement to the design and carried on to the shovel. I've heard horror storkes about too hot oil not being able to do it job in the heads.
Cool oil = better

Got a set of beautiful origianl heads don't tuch em.
Got a narly welded beated set... Why not?
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