Bastard Speed Twin build

[Lester]

Hey Guys,

I haven't been here for a while since I have been tinkering with my Jap-bobber and chopper plus all kinds of other projects I side track into.

So what is re recommended way of posting pictures nowadays??

THE BUILD:
My wonderful wife surprised the hell out of me this past X-mas and gave me a 52 Speed Twin. At least that is what the papers say, its a complete bastard project and rough but I'm as happy as a pig in shit.
As soon as I find out how to post pictures I'll get on with this thread... and all the questions I'll be having..... first Brit bike build of my own.

[wadeschields]

That wife is a keeper ... and that sounds like a great project... Ill let someone else explain the picture loading to you since I see people here do it differently then I do.

[Goldy]

I used to use photobucket...then they got greedy. Now I just use the "go advanced" button and upload photos that way.

[HD48FL]

If you're using a photo hosting site, then click on the Insert Image and enter the URL of your image. Use the Preview Post option to see if the photo(s) appear.

You can also upload by using the Attachments tab. Click on the Attachments tab, the one pictured below, the one with the drop down arrow.



This window will appear:



Upload your photos, close that window, then hit the Attachments tab, select your photo(s). They will not be images in your post, use the Preview Post option and then you'll see them.

I do not know about large size photos, so give it a try.

[Lester]

Hey Guys,
Good to see you still here Goldie!
Yea I used photobuck to post picture here before but as Goldie mentions they got greedy and that was really detrimental to a lot of great and informative threads. Anyways I will find a photo hosting site and cross my fingers.
On the note of pictutres... Wade the pictures on your web site were very impressive!

L

[Lester]

Went in advanced mode to see how that works....

Here is what I stated with.... but different tank... original SpeedTwin.

[Lester]

I decided to start with the motor and tranny to get that cost out of the way.
The transmission cases were a bit rough, needing some welding and machining. I had a good friend do the welding as I only have a DC TIG welder. All bearings and worn bits are replaced ect. now to get this thing back together.

[richbob]

Nice
You do the contoured repairs by hand?

[Lester]

Originally Posted by richbob

Nice
You do the contoured repairs by hand?

Hey Rich,
Thanks
Yes, filing, sanding and a light polish...but it will never match the chrome either way. Good enough for this project.

L

[Ratso]

If memory serves, the '52 I rode (50 years ago) had a non-synchronized transmission. Is that amenable to upgrading without a great deal of work?

'Course, I'm not even sure that memory *does* serve.

Thanks for the schoolings.

[Lester]

Hello Ratso,

Good to see you still here as well.
To tell you the truth I do not know what yr the gearbox is... no numbers to check either as it has been chromed at some point. All I know is that it is for a rigid frame as they have slightly different mounting lugs on the cases ect.

L

[Lester]

Here is where I am now....
I have had it apart and together a few times.... I'm pretty sure I have got it right.... time to button her up. I indexed it to 1st gear and seems to be OK. Any good way of checking operation while in the bench vice?

L

[Lester]

Alright guys, I getting ready to button up the tranny, I need some help.....
What is the proper orientation of the kicker shaft return spring???. Anybody have one laying around they can take a picture of and post here? Just trying to avoid the ol' time consuming trial and error method.

Also.......... What is the correct preload of this spring.... 1 turn???

[joe49]

I can't help with first hand knowledge of or pictures of your bike. But like any return spring, the eye of the spring goes in the direction of the gear moving to the parked position. The spring should be around or more than 1 turn tight.
More pic's and including gear in place on park stop. Also right hand side kicker or left?

[Lester]

Thanks Joe.... I'm good with spring direction and so on... just need to know the orientation to hook the spring on to the kicker shaft.
Its a right side kicker....
I'll figure it out... too bad the manual doesn't mention anything about this.

L

[joe49]

As it is in your picture, for right side, and around one turn tight.

[Lester]

OK,

I got it figured out good enough... it seems like
there are different springs available for the kicker shaft... one with 5 windings and another with 6 windings.... here is a picture for future reference if any body is in the same situation.




all buttoned up....

[Motocrash]

Damn... when it comes to motorcycles, the only thing I ever get from my wife is grief.

[Lester]

Originally Posted by Motocrash

Damn... when it comes to motorcycles, the only thing I ever get from my wife is grief.

ha ha... yea I still get that too

[Lester]

Time to dig into the motor...
don't look too bad




BUT.....


don't know how necessary these internal tabs are.... one was broken off and cleaned up some time in the past... the other I discovered broken now. should I chop off the one tab left so it doesn't brake off and make a mess of my cases?


This bike was run with a primary belt.... 30mm not leaving much crankshaft for the stator to be inserted on which is probably the cause of the key way tear.... I will have to tend to this before anything else... any tips.
Is there a different charging set up out there.... slimmer maybe... other than that the crank is good. The cylinders are 40 over and need to be bored. I may go with a 750 kit so leaving that alone for now.

[Thunderbird]

personally i wouldn't sweat the broken tab, i never use those internal case screws and once the barrels are bolted on they hold everything firm.
as for the ' bruised ' crank, hard to see how far its gone, could build up and have re machined?. is that an early or late crank?.
depending how you intend to use the bike you could go for a total loss battery system and forego the alternator, that's what i did, adhering to the old Joe Lucas adage "a gentleman doesn't motor about after dark".

[Ducbsa]

I've had one of these in my other Britbike for 20 years and am happy:

https://www.alton-france.com/generators/

[Lester]

Originally Posted by Thunderbird

personally i wouldn't sweat the broken tab, i never use those internal case screws and once the barrels are bolted on they hold everything firm.
as for the ' bruised ' crank, hard to see how far its gone, could build up and have re machined?. is that an early or late crank?.
depending how you intend to use the bike you could go for a total loss battery system and forego the alternator, that's what i did, adhering to the old Joe Lucas adage "a gentleman doesn't motor about after dark".

Yes, I will probably give it a go with welding and machining a new key way. Its totally f¤%ked now. I have the old type of crank... bolted. I will just be zipping around here and there.... not a race bike so I think I will be OK with it.
I am not a big fan of the total lose battery system.. I would like to avoid a battery all together to be honest.
As we say here in Norway.... Joe Lucas, the inventor of darkness.

Originally Posted by Ducbsa

I've had one of these in my other Britbike for 20 years and am happy:

https://www.alton-france.com/generators/

Thanks Ducbsa That's is a nice looking product, looks costly.... I would need a new timing cover anything else? The bike would be cleaner with the charging tucked away in the primary thou.... BUT this is a good alternative I need to consider.

L

l

[joe49]

Instead of chancing welding on the crank, clean up the OD then cut a new keyway in another place.

[Ducbsa]

Originally Posted by Lester

I would need a new timing cover, anything else?
l

From this listing in Sweden, I looks like it is a complete, bolt-in item>

https://www.jwcmotorcycles.com/alton...opiera-kopiera

[Lester]

Originally Posted by Ducbsa

From this listing in Sweden, I looks like it is a complete, bolt-in item>

https://www.jwcmotorcycles.com/alton...opiera-kopiera

Thanks!

[Lester]

I had a go at the crank this weekend... I decided to build up the old key way and remachine but I also decided to extend the crank with an extra 10mm (bout 3/8"). This will give the stator alittle more shaft and key way, hopefully this will keep it from happening again. It worked out well.... welded alittle at a time and keep the heat controlled. Its true within 0.02mm.... good enough for me. I'm happy about the results.

[Stormin]

Yep, looks good! Great idea with the extension, a little extra should help.

[Lester]

Originally Posted by Stormin

Yep, looks good! Great idea with the extension, a little extra should help.

Thanks Stormin, fingers crossed.

L

[Lester]

So this look right?
....same picture just zoomed in and marked the factory marking better for you guys.





L

[Thunderbird]

instead of factory timing had you considered setting the timing from actual valve lift with dial gauge?.

[Lester]

Originally Posted by Thunderbird

instead of factory timing had you considered setting the timing from actual valve lift with dial gauge?.

Hello Thunderbird,
I am open for any thing. where can I find info on the procedure? It would be nice to at least do a check since this bike is a mix of parts.

L

[Thunderbird]

was it Stan Stephens 'Triumph Tuning'?. II'll see if I have a copy and scan.
Thought it was something Four Aces Wes would have done a video on. it would have complemented his Triumph build DVD's.

[Lester]

Cheers Thunderbird I appreciate it. I do have the Wes DVDs and they are great, another on the Cam Timing would have been great. I have had no luck finding anything on YouTube so far.

L

[Tri bsa uk]

This might help ?..

http://www.webcamshafts.com/pages_misc/degreeing.html

[Thunderbird]

Better late than never, think you have the info' but here specifically for Triumph , - All the best

[Lester]

Originally Posted by Tri bsa uk

This might help ?..

http://www.webcamshafts.com/pages_misc/degreeing.html

Thanks Tri BSA, that was a good write up, I enjoyed it
I do get the picture but I an thinking this method applies more to the guys with adjustable cam wheels... where they can make small adjustments to wished degree. With us it pretty much one tooth more or less to the factory markings we are taking about.

Anybody got any Triumph specific info on this?


L

[Lester]

Originally Posted by Thunderbird

Better late than never, think you have the info' but here specifically for Triumph , - All the best

Thunderbird.... I somehow missed this... Thanks, I'll Have a read and try to get my monkey brain to understand it.

L

[Lester]

Hey Thunderbird,

That was a great article! I am eager to read the rest as it mentions the E3134 cam profile I have in the engine... Could you please....

And of course the cam wheels are "adjustable" wth the help of the two other mystery key ways I chuffed at like a fool.

learning every day...

L

[Thunderbird]

tried to PM you with file but too big to be attached. ( sure it could be zipped, condensed or whatever but i just don't do this tip tappity thing ). PM me your email address and i'll attach the cam timing and top end section; ps article was by Stan Shenton, Stan Stephens was a 2 str*ke tuner, if i start talking about 'stink wheels' i think that can get you banned from JJ 8D

[Lester]

Thunderbird,

Thank you.... Check PM

Cheers
L