Yep, here is another "drama-free" supercrouton build thread , on a 1959 T120, that is destined for a client in <ST1<?xml:namespace prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com
</st1:country-region>Australia</ST1. As such, it had to have a front mud guard, chain guard, Aussie-size license plate bracket, and a front brake. This bike is typical of the sort I build; short front, +6 rear, vertical oil tank, and a CF gas tank. Most members here will recognize the familiar stance, and as such, this thread will be more focused on the fabrication details. Enjoy!<O</O Here is what I had to start with, this time around.
<O</O After the build was spoke for, I rounded up a suitable frame
<O</O Then chopped/smoothed it to an appropriate level
<O</O The rear section is from The Factory Metal Works. Lucas made this up custom for me, he has been super to deal with, and the section went together perfect!
Thanks, sandergecko, Dan Boy, selectedgrub, buk, and La Dolce! Actually, I am about to be done with this bike, and thought I would try waiting to start this, so I could post a more condensed photo-documentation without all the waiting around. We'll see how that goes, right? Anyhow, back to the pics...
Next was to tig up a 10-gauge Aussie-sized license plate/ tail light bracket with a pair of brass Tit-mouse units.
Joe, at Chopped Triumphs, supplied the custom front motor mounts. He is a super guy to deal with, and he has a ton of innovative products for triumphs in the works.
<O</O Next was the chain tensioner. This item was due for a bit of updating, so I put a "lightened" gusset across the top.
Haven't been on the board in a while and I'm glad I decided to log on at the start of this! Your other builds are awesome and I can't wait to see this on come along!
This build gets a shock on the springer front end, which required moving the headlight. I like the headlight to be nice and low, so I made up a 10 gauge bracket to go around the shock to keep the light low. The bracket allows the headlight to be adjusted for vertical aiming too.
<O</O One of the issued I continue to run into with pre units, is when previous owners use improper inner primary spacers, or leave them out altogether. The result is, when they crank down the foot-rest nuts, the inner and outer primary covers get cracked, distorted, or broken out altogether. This inner primary had the footrest stud boss broken off completely, and the outer cover was puckered, with radial cracks. I tig'd up and smoothed out the outer cover. On the inner cover, I welded in a boss that went all the way from where the outer cover seats, to the inner motor mounts. The boss I put in there is also much wider than stock, to give better leverage to keep everything straight and true when the full weight of a rider is on the pegs. There is no way, now, to get the spacing wrong either.
This is just a post to show you the type of client I have here. This chap is pure class. He visited a distillery in Bundaberg, Australia, and he went to the trouble to buy me a bottle of their rum as well as having a couple of classes engraved, then shipped the lot to me. Just so you know, this rum is super smooth, definately the best rum I've ever had. If you have the oportunity to try Bundaberg rum, you should.
Now, back to the bike stuff. Since I used a BNR belt drive (that will not fit under the stock cover) I made a ÂĽ" aluminum spacer to go between the inner and outer primary cover. It's another one of those things that loks like it was born there, and no one will probably ever notice.
Since this bike is a "generator" model, I used an Alton Alternator, which requires a decent size battery. So here is the 10 gauge battery box.
This pic shows the mount tab for the fuse holder, and the two studs will hold a quick-connect so a battery tender with the corresponding plug can be quickly/easily connected if the bike sits for any amount of time.
This is how the chain guard turned out. To meet Aussie specs it has a length requirement that has to comply with.
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