some of you may have seen this before, some maybe not. i am a back yard builder and don't run a shop of any kind. i do want to do all i can at home and do it with the simple tools i have. i do hd flywheels so that's what i gathered tooling for. an S&S master balance kit is costly but so is having many sets balanced by some one else. i got the kit and it has paid for it's self in a few ways, each balance job i do the cost goes down and for me the key was i learned a new trick.
basic tools needed...
a balance kit that works with the flywheels you will be working with.
scales that will weigh in tenths of grams up to around 2000 grams.
a level surface plate is nice but any flat, hard level surface will work.
a drill press that can be run slow and bore up to half inch diameter in hard steel.
an old lathe is handy but is not a must have.
past that, it takes nothing more than time and simple math.
i start by making sure all parts to be used fit. you don't want to weigh, balance and then find out the replacement connecting rods crash into the flywheels. test fit every thing for the needed clearances first.
on this set of 68 FLH flywheels i used S&S replacement rods. the rods have larger beams and contacted the drive side flywheel. i mounted the drive side flywheel on a junk shaft and clamped it in a 4 jaw chuck and trued how it spun. with a light shave on the inside of the wheel i had the needed clearance (0.060" is as good as a mile)
shaving the wheel on an old south bend...
i did use the tail stock and center to steady the wheel while cutting, just slid it back for the pic. if you don't have a lathe, an angle grinder could work with much skill.
next is to weigh all that slips and slides. i start with the pistons. well i forgot to take a pic of pistons but well... next is to weigh each ring set, you did check the ring gaps in the bores first right?...
next is rods, rollers, roller cages, crank pin, nuts...
lots more to come...
basic tools needed...
a balance kit that works with the flywheels you will be working with.
scales that will weigh in tenths of grams up to around 2000 grams.
a level surface plate is nice but any flat, hard level surface will work.
a drill press that can be run slow and bore up to half inch diameter in hard steel.
an old lathe is handy but is not a must have.
past that, it takes nothing more than time and simple math.
i start by making sure all parts to be used fit. you don't want to weigh, balance and then find out the replacement connecting rods crash into the flywheels. test fit every thing for the needed clearances first.
on this set of 68 FLH flywheels i used S&S replacement rods. the rods have larger beams and contacted the drive side flywheel. i mounted the drive side flywheel on a junk shaft and clamped it in a 4 jaw chuck and trued how it spun. with a light shave on the inside of the wheel i had the needed clearance (0.060" is as good as a mile)
shaving the wheel on an old south bend...
i did use the tail stock and center to steady the wheel while cutting, just slid it back for the pic. if you don't have a lathe, an angle grinder could work with much skill.
next is to weigh all that slips and slides. i start with the pistons. well i forgot to take a pic of pistons but well... next is to weigh each ring set, you did check the ring gaps in the bores first right?...
next is rods, rollers, roller cages, crank pin, nuts...
lots more to come...