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#1 |
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Christchurch, UK
Posts: 17
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I think this is a topic possible flogged to death, so its not a question. I am in the midst of customising my 05 Triumph Scrambler into something the closer resembles a 'Desert Sled' I sent the frame away to be painted by AiryArts a painter who claims to be the Premier Painter in the area....Im no longer sure.
This is what happened to the paint the FIRST time..... bolts not even tightend up. Ok paint can take a beating in these areas but this was happen in other area tht had recieved a slight knock Second Time it was painted, same result Looks like its Powdercoat next time, as getting a good painter seems to be getting diffucult! Sorry for the large pics
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: mokena IL
Posts: 197
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Looks to me if your scratching that stuff off with your fingernail for one its not cured and two it never stuck to the metal or primer. Don't know what he is using on the frame for paint but would like to know. Have the painter fix it again
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Cocoa Florida USA
Posts: 2,485
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Paint is only as good as the materials and efforts of the prep man. Expensive paint, put on a unsuitable piece, will never stick. Cheap paint, put on a properly prepared piece, will not last. So the combination of both are required. Powder coat, on the other hand, can do the same thing, if not properly processed. So it is a crap shoot, at best. I prefer paint, but then I also do all my paint and prep work. Powdercoat is not in my line of work, unless a customer wants it. I would take back to the painter, and raise hell, until he makes good or gives the money spent, back. Remember, even painters have a bad day, or the prep boy was high on crack that day. So, maybe he will make good, and your problem will be cured, at only a small labor cost to you for the disassembly and delivery to his door. If he refuses, you have lost little, because you will probably do the same to take to someone else, or the powdercoat shop. We live, we learn.
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#4 |
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Mankato MN
Posts: 500
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take it back to him and CALMLY discuss your disapointment. If he has a good rep he will want to keep it and keep you happy.
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#5 |
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Christchurch, UK
Posts: 17
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This has been back once to the painter who I have emailed but yet to re receive a reply.
And yes the paint is coming off with my fingernail. I don't feel I will be third time lucky so it's either get another Painter or opt for powdercoat.
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#6 |
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Doylestown, Ohio
Posts: 298
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Agree with others above... looks like crappy prep. Should sand-blast or bead-blast, 2-part primer or self-etching primer, quality paint and proper cure.
Something went wrong somewhere in the prep and/or execution. www.flamethrowercustoms.com Last edited by FlameThrower; 12-26-2011 at 12:51 PM. |
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#7 |
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Netherlands below sea level
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Crappy prep.
I had about that same result with powdercoat. At bolt holes I cut away the paint with a razor blade, paint between important joints like motor mounts or brakes can be bad news. For the joint and for the paint around it. |
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#8 |
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Southern Maryland
Posts: 247
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Prep prep prep.And make sure its all cured 100 % before wrenhin.
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#9 |
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Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Cut N Shoot, Texas
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looks like lousy or little to no prep at all.
powder is the same way, it needs proper prep for adhesion.
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#10 |
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Phoenix
Posts: 748
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so how long did you wait to bolt stuff down after it was painted...this time of year slows the curing down a LOT.
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#11 |
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Christchurch, UK
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The paint was left for over a month, two to three weeks in front of a radiator in my house it's now been over two months and the pictures I posted are from this morning and it will come off using a fingernail. Looking at the paint I don't thing it's drying time as the paint is cracking and flaking just not sticking. The painter the second time it was painted had it blasted of all paint so whatever was on there previously is not the problem.. As you are saying, just shit prep.
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#12 |
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Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Phoenix
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well there goes my theory haha...it does look like some oxidation under the primer in a couple pics. good luck on getting it solved.
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#13 |
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 1,128
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Maybe if you posted bigger pics I could get a better look
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#14 |
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Christchurch, UK
Posts: 17
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Maybe I should post some more detailed images Sweatmachine just in case.
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#15 |
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Location: mokena IL
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what kind of primer was used on the bare steel epoxy or self etch primer. What was the frame sandblasted with. That and there might have not been enough time in between coats. What temperature was the metal when he started to paint. There is alot of things that can go wrong its all in the prep work. Everything has to have enough time in between coats has to be properly cleaned and have to have a good sand scratch for stuff to stick.
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#16 |
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Chicago
Posts: 87
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that happens all the time around bolts with paint. its just something i live with now. i've tried 2 painters. both times did the same thing. the worse area is by the chain adjusters. paint never holds up there.
but frames i've had coated never do that ever. now i just use washers on painter areas that are visible. at least the washer just makes a round imprint and it doesnt chip badly. i'll powder coat on everything i can now. things i cant i'll have painted and deal with things like that. in your case it lools like poor prep. that looks terrible chipping off like that. |
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#17 |
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Join Date: Mar 2011
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why not just learn how to use a rattle can youreself then touch-up's are easy,surface prep appears to be reason for you're failure.but remember a frame is the hardest part to paint because of all the irregular surfaces.if you do get it powdered and it chips .as it likely will...how ya gonna feel.. thats why I suggest rattle can's at least on the frame.
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#18 |
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Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: USA
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Guys, You can't Powder Coat on Bondo so in the Case of a Molded Up Frame Or Tank, Paint will be the way to go
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#19 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Christchurch, UK
Posts: 17
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I doubt when...if ever this bike is finished it is unlikely to see any more than 500 miles a year. So paint would really be the better option as I dont need the durability of powder, but it seems getting a painter to paint the frame so it will survive the rebuild let alone being ridden is harder than expected.
But perhaps powder will allow me to bolt things to the frame or drop a small bolt onto it without doing so much damage.
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#20 |
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Join Date: May 2008
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My paint work dont do that and I use plastic washers under alot of washers unless its a critical area..That is down right poor work there for sure...Epoxy primer sealers ,and 2 stage paints are the way to go...Frames have to be hand sanded most importantly after sandblasting or anytype of blasting materials..looks like they just went over what was blasted with no prep work....Hogster you know better how long u hang around my place and havent learned yet..hehehe..most touch up on frames are done with small paint guns or airbrushes and blended into the existing,thats why I like paint .Alittle wetsand ,then color match then clear blend and hand buff.Mint every time.
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