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Old 09-17-2016, 08:45 AM   #1
BackPorchChoppers
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Default Wiring Lights with a Joe Hunt

I've wired my light using the schematic from Lowbrow. Only thing I eleminated was the light switch. What I need to know is what kinda voltage is required between the stator to the rectifier? Then from the rectifier to my components? Thanks for any help in advance.
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Old 09-17-2016, 09:12 AM   #2
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1969 Triumph Bonneville.
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Old 09-17-2016, 09:29 AM   #3
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Default Re: Wiring Lights with a Joe Hunt

At rest you should get a voltage reading of about 12.5 Volts and running it should read about 13.5v to 14v across the Battery..
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Old 09-17-2016, 09:35 AM   #4
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No battery, Im running a magneto.
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Old 09-17-2016, 09:42 AM   #5
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Default Re: Wiring Lights with a Joe Hunt

use a Battery as well or ya lights will die at idle and your componants will not last as long....
batteryless systems just don't seem to work long term...
so many threads here by people having problems with theem....
if it worked well bike manufacturers would all sell bikes without battery's ...
.....just my $00.02
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Old 09-17-2016, 10:30 AM   #6
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Default Re: Wiring Lights with a Joe Hunt

Quote:
Originally Posted by BackPorchChoppers View Post
I've wired my light using the schematic from Lowbrow. Only thing I eleminated was the light switch. What I need to know is what kinda voltage is required between the stator to the rectifier? Then from the rectifier to my components? Thanks for any help in advance.
The voltage from the stator is AC. The rectifier converts it into DC. The real question is how much voltage is currently being produced from your rectifier (DC)? Low voltage on a battery-less triumph is a common, but fixable problem. Most Triumphs I build are magneto/batteryless.
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Old 09-17-2016, 10:57 AM   #7
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Default Re: Wiring Lights with a Joe Hunt

...you just have the right amount of current load. Just use a fuse after the capacitor and other fuse for the lights.
My vespa scooter doe not have battery and have horn turn signals, flasher with noise, and all the other stuff and does ok at idle.
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Old 09-17-2016, 11:43 AM   #8
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Well this is odd, brand new stator only producing 5.00 volts of AC current. Thats not enough is it?
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Old 09-17-2016, 11:44 AM   #9
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I just got the thing last week in the mail from Lowbrow
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Old 09-17-2016, 12:15 PM   #10
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Only 0.02 DC volts after the rectifier. Could the rotor be bad? I did the screw driver test it lifted the rotor. Didn't hold it but lifted it.
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Old 09-17-2016, 12:53 PM   #11
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Default Re: Wiring Lights with a Joe Hunt

i couldn't tell you the voltage
but I'm running the same but a morris
front and rear lamps incandescent solid state reg ,1971 original rotor
all good
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Old 09-17-2016, 01:25 PM   #12
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Yes sir richbob, looks almost identical BNR belt drive and all cept I opted for the solid pressure plate.
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Old 09-17-2016, 01:44 PM   #13
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Default Re: Wiring Lights with a Joe Hunt

Something is funky
fuck you only got 3 components (rotor,stator,reg)
mine was solid i drilled it(but had another as a template)
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Old 09-17-2016, 03:13 PM   #14
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Default Re: Wiring Lights with a Joe Hunt

Quote:
Originally Posted by BackPorchChoppers View Post
Only 0.02 DC volts after the rectifier. Could the rotor be bad? I did the screw driver test it lifted the rotor. Didn't hold it but lifted it.
The screw driver test is not very accurate. A gauss meter is the only way to accurately measure magnetism. What type/brand/age rectifier do you have? Just to be sure, what range was your meter set at when you read the .02 DCV and the 5ACV? For the record, even a weak rotor should make more than .02 VDC. That said, I would check ALL electrical connections and ground connections. The stators rarely go bad, most of the time it is the rotor that is faulty. The magnetism fades over time and especially so if it is not stored properly. A magnetic rotor should always be stored with "keepers", two curved steel plates covering the entire magnetic surface. If it was stored without them for any length of time, plan on buying a new rotor. Same goes for magnetos; NEVER store a magneto with the armature out of the case, The permanent magnets will loose magnetism.
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Old 09-17-2016, 03:28 PM   #15
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Default Re: Wiring Lights with a Joe Hunt

The other thing to check is the rotors position in side the stator
if you don't have it in the right position side to side you will get a low output.
(you may have to shim it out but it doesn't have to be flush)
i understand is a new item from lowbrow.
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Old 09-17-2016, 04:28 PM   #16
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When I tested the output of the stator at 5.0 I was at 200 on the AC dial. When I tested the output from the regulator/rectifier at 0.02 I was set at 200 on the DC.
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Old 09-17-2016, 04:35 PM   #17
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Both the Stator and Regulatot are new. The old stator was a Lucas the new one is a Wessel.
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Old 09-17-2016, 05:06 PM   #18
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Default Re: Wiring Lights with a Joe Hunt

Have you verified that your rectifier's ground connection is good? Check resistance (Ohm) between ground wire of rectifier and another bare metal part of frame. Does your meter have a 20 VDC range setting? That is the range you want to use, if possible. Do have a Capacitor in your system? Is your rectifier Tympanium, Podtronics, other? Podtronics do not necessarily need an external capacitor, since they have (some) internal capacitance. Do you have any electrical load on the system when checking voltage? Headlight/tail light/etc.
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Old 09-17-2016, 08:17 PM   #19
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Dan, I have a setting for 20 on the ohm dial. The rectifier is a podtronix. I will test the ohm in the a m. What should I be reading on the OHM? I have another rotor I will try too.
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Old 09-18-2016, 05:16 PM   #20
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Default Re: Wiring Lights with a Joe Hunt

You should have no resistance or very little between grounds. DC volt range should be tested in the 20-50 VDC range as we are working with 12 VDC systems. Testing in the 200VDC range is not preferrred. Can work, but takes more brain power to convert. You need a cap.
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