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#1 |
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I've wired my light using the schematic from Lowbrow. Only thing I eleminated was the light switch. What I need to know is what kinda voltage is required between the stator to the rectifier? Then from the rectifier to my components? Thanks for any help in advance.
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#2 |
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1969 Triumph Bonneville.
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#3 |
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At rest you should get a voltage reading of about 12.5 Volts and running it should read about 13.5v to 14v across the Battery..
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#4 |
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No battery, Im running a magneto.
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#5 |
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use a Battery as well or ya lights will die at idle and your componants will not last as long....
batteryless systems just don't seem to work long term... so many threads here by people having problems with theem.... if it worked well bike manufacturers would all sell bikes without battery's ... .....just my $00.02 |
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#6 | |
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#7 |
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...you just have the right amount of current load. Just use a fuse after the capacitor and other fuse for the lights.
My vespa scooter doe not have battery and have horn turn signals, flasher with noise, and all the other stuff and does ok at idle. |
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#8 |
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Well this is odd, brand new stator only producing 5.00 volts of AC current. Thats not enough is it?
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#9 |
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I just got the thing last week in the mail from Lowbrow
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#10 |
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Only 0.02 DC volts after the rectifier. Could the rotor be bad? I did the screw driver test it lifted the rotor. Didn't hold it but lifted it.
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#11 |
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i couldn't tell you the voltage
but I'm running the same but a morris front and rear lamps incandescent solid state reg ,1971 original rotor all good ![]()
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#12 |
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Yes sir richbob, looks almost identical BNR belt drive and all cept I opted for the solid pressure plate.
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#13 |
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Something is funky
fuck you only got 3 components (rotor,stator,reg) mine was solid i drilled it(but had another as a template) ![]() ![]()
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#14 |
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The screw driver test is not very accurate. A gauss meter is the only way to accurately measure magnetism. What type/brand/age rectifier do you have? Just to be sure, what range was your meter set at when you read the .02 DCV and the 5ACV? For the record, even a weak rotor should make more than .02 VDC. That said, I would check ALL electrical connections and ground connections. The stators rarely go bad, most of the time it is the rotor that is faulty. The magnetism fades over time and especially so if it is not stored properly. A magnetic rotor should always be stored with "keepers", two curved steel plates covering the entire magnetic surface. If it was stored without them for any length of time, plan on buying a new rotor. Same goes for magnetos; NEVER store a magneto with the armature out of the case, The permanent magnets will loose magnetism.
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#15 |
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The other thing to check is the rotors position in side the stator
if you don't have it in the right position side to side you will get a low output. (you may have to shim it out but it doesn't have to be flush) i understand is a new item from lowbrow.
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#16 |
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When I tested the output of the stator at 5.0 I was at 200 on the AC dial. When I tested the output from the regulator/rectifier at 0.02 I was set at 200 on the DC.
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#17 |
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Both the Stator and Regulatot are new. The old stator was a Lucas the new one is a Wessel.
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#18 |
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Have you verified that your rectifier's ground connection is good? Check resistance (Ohm) between ground wire of rectifier and another bare metal part of frame. Does your meter have a 20 VDC range setting? That is the range you want to use, if possible. Do have a Capacitor in your system? Is your rectifier Tympanium, Podtronics, other? Podtronics do not necessarily need an external capacitor, since they have (some) internal capacitance. Do you have any electrical load on the system when checking voltage? Headlight/tail light/etc.
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#19 |
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Dan, I have a setting for 20 on the ohm dial. The rectifier is a podtronix. I will test the ohm in the a m. What should I be reading on the OHM? I have another rotor I will try too.
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#20 |
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You should have no resistance or very little between grounds. DC volt range should be tested in the 20-50 VDC range as we are working with 12 VDC systems. Testing in the 200VDC range is not preferrred. Can work, but takes more brain power to convert. You need a cap.
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