Shovel start issue

[farmall]

You could just mod a manifold rather than lose fuel capacity and hassle with a tank swap.

Very cool to see one still in the box. I never got the chance to run a Lectron.

If you want to try just extending the rubber hose, you could bring manifold and carb to an industrial hose shop and likely find hose that's plenty rigid and tough for the job. Retail auto store customers never see the variety of industrial solutions available, and they'll cut to length if needed. (An abrasive disc in an angle grinder does a neat job too.)

[76shuvlinoff]

double tap, deleted.

[76shuvlinoff]

Originally Posted by rhysmort

That's good to know.

Maybe it's time to get rid of the Super E and put a CV on my pan. All the cv's I see are for late sportster models? Would these also work on my Pan?

My Es always seemed to run fat. It's an asskicker on a hopped up mill though but I was never impressed with the overall manners.

Just make sure the sporty carb has an accelerator pump, not all did. The best is to find a completely unmolested carb with an undrilled slide and an unfuckered with spring. Avoid hop up jetting kits and stick with Keihin parts for diddling. Parts from other sources are not all interchangeable.

A 40mm CV pisses off the purists but for pans and shovels you want to ride instead of decode the secret handshake to get fire I don't think there's a better choice. I gotta admit that Lectron is some cool stuff though!

I am no guru, I know first hand the CVs work for stockish bikes and am told they can support 100 HP. I had one on my 93"er but am currently running a 44mm SE CV because I can and mostly because I like to tinker. A bit more cold blooded than the 40mm was but flawless warmed up with 3 hairs more top end. Still needs some massaging.

farmall. it's been forever and I can't recall the original jetting of my 40mm CV. If you find a factory unit the most you'd probably have to do is knock out the idle mix cap and fatten the mix up a touch.

Back to the OP, if the hose is insulated try adding the heat spacer between the manifold and E base. If the bike always ran well and suddenly is being a little bitch then it probably needs a healthy cleaning including a good look at the accel pump diaphragm. I have no dog in this fight but if you decide to go CV I implore you to look at the press-on solid adapter. Easy peasy and instructions are included.

[sugarlou]

Bike has been a fucker to start from day one. It takes like ten pumps to get fuel in.

If I pump it like 4 or 5 squirts kick it and then pull a plug they are bone dry yet I can see the accelerator pump throwing fuel..

Let me also ad Im no mechanic. I built the bike but I don't really know fuck-all about motors. Im not gonna front. I have a guy who does my motors.

My fuel line does a serious loop . Its way long, goes between the jugs and then up to the carb. Theres no other way to run it .

Bike is hard starting but runs like a champ on the road.

Crazy it seems to start when I take the air cleaner cover off. Pain in the ass... I wanna sell the fucker

[farmall]

It's easy enough to try a CV. Usually simple things are what cause frustrating problems.

There are MANY CV swap threads with pics and there are always carbs on Ebay if you can't score one locally. I'd check Craigslist first. Lots of people sell leftovers after they buiild a chobber.

[sugarlou]

Last thing I want is a used carb. Sounds like an invitation for problems no?

i don't even know what Im looking for

[panhead_pete]

Have a look on places like HDForums - heaps of low mileage take off parts

There is a guy that's really well known for providing complete set ups for shovels - for some reason I cant access the shovelhead us site at the moment - maybe someone else knows him?

[76shuvlinoff]

When I had my E I had the fuel line as short as I could make it so it was high, like damn near rocker cover high. It had a piece of corrugated tubing around it, think wire loom but farmall may have the trick with a beer can shield. I also made a piece of heavy wire into a double ended loop that the bottom bolt on the manifold went through one one end and the fuel line went through on the other, again this was to keep it centered between the jugs. Right now all I have on it is the 6-8" piece of corrugated tubing around the fuel line. Works fine.

Again, the insulator block between the manifold and carb might matter.

40mm CV with CV backing plate and filter. My old 7" round cover slips over it and no one is the wiser. Yeah I know, you guys like those the little air cleaners as to show case the mill and I don't blame you. I am sure one could be fitted.

[farmall]

Last thing I want is a used carb. Sounds like an invitation for problems no?

No. Most carbs just need cleaning and a rebuild kit. The soft parts wear, but few motorcycles are run to really high mileages so the hard parts don't suffer. A used carb is as good as a new one if it's in sound shape.

[rhysmort]

Originally Posted by sugarlou

Bike has been a fucker to start from day one. It takes like ten pumps to get fuel in.

If I pump it like 4 or 5 squirts kick it and then pull a plug they are bone dry yet I can see the accelerator pump throwing fuel..

Let me also ad Im no mechanic. I built the bike but I don't really know fuck-all about motors. Im not gonna front. I have a guy who does my motors.

My fuel line does a serious loop . Its way long, goes between the jugs and then up to the carb. Theres no other way to run it .

Bike is hard starting but runs like a champ on the road.

Crazy it seems to start when I take the air cleaner cover off. Pain in the ass... I wanna sell the fucker

My pan is exactly the same man, EXACTLY. But I give it a few pumps and it always kicks up. Thing is from what I gather the E is for bigger CI than stock big twins. My 74" Pan doesn't need all that ass. Thanks for the CV stuff too guys, I want a linkert, my heart is set on one. Mine only coughs a little at 80 MPH if you try and crack throttle. On the flip she starts first kick cold..

[joe49]

http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche....TOR%20ASSEMBLY

part 51 is what you need for your fuel line, it works.

http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/hd_cv_mods.htm

Don't let the for evo and twikkie scare you.

[joe49]

I like the non cv kehin carbs better. Only down side is the kehin and cv {same jets} are quicker to plug up with bad gas. Plus is your fuel mileage is usually better.

[sugarlou]

Originally Posted by joe49

http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche....TOR%20ASSEMBLY

part 51 is what you need for your fuel line, it works.

http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/hd_cv_mods.htm

Don't let the for evo and twikkie scare you.

What does it do? Hold the fuel line up ?


My motor is a mild stroker approx 83"

[76shuvlinoff]

I've made part #51 out of a piece of high tensile fence wire (because that's what I had). Yes it holds the fuel line up and centered.