Jockey Journal Forum banner

1951 Panhead build thread

37K views 275 replies 33 participants last post by  [JP] 
#1 ·
Hi all.
As I had explained on a previous thread, the good old 51 Panhead survivor long chop is no more.
Roller been sold and I kept all the drive train.

The first part of the build turned up today! and what a beauty!

It's a VG 1951 replica frame. Made in Germany by VG motorcycles they are hand built to your spec. so you say 1951 and they make it with all the bits it should have had.
They hold the original molds so even the casting has numbers on it.

So.. here's the start of the build. the frame!









 
See less See more
5
#34 ·
Was hoping there was something clever out there to make up for the bearing difference...

I have a few juice setups but putting a juice setup on a 51 Pan and on a frame like this would be sacrilege.
I even have a juice setup for a star hub wheel. Just not a mech setup for a midstar. Dammit.

I'll have to source a star hub then...
The next question is.. 16 or 18 wheel... Might go for 18.
 
#35 ·
Was hoping there was something clever out there to make up for the bearing difference...

I have a few juice setups but putting a juice setup on a 51 Pan and on a frame like this would be sacrilege.
I even have a juice setup for a star hub wheel. Just not a mech setup for a midstar. Dammit.

I'll have to source a star hub then...
The next question is.. 16 or 18 wheel... Might go for 18.
Unfortunately not that I know of! Somebody on here might tell you otherwise with far more experience than myself but I think you're tied to it.

I agree, I wouldn't ever have a juice again either having had a mech.. far better progressive feel and set up correctly brakes just as well!

Go 18" for sure, having had 16/18/19 I much prefer the latter two!
 
#36 ·
the Pan was originally on a juice brake and worked beautifully, - this was the setup I had which is strange..
it's a drum for a starhub, with an early back plate (the one that sinks in into the drum)....but with a juice setup....
usually the juice setups, the back plate has a lip that goes over the drum border, this sinks in. but there might have been some years where the juice setups used drums from mech setups...



anyway... yes I'll probably go with an 18.
I should have thought about this earlier as could have got a star hub and rim on this last shipment of bits. :/
 
#37 ·
Another small update! Santa came in early and dropped off my shinny Star hub laced to a 18" WM rim!

really happy with it.. even a fender (mudgard for us here) I had kicking about fits perfectly the size and tyre radius... will be a narrow Queen seat there on the back though!

Can't wait to get this going, think I have most of what I need now.



 
#38 ·
Excellent decision, the 18".

Funny, and maybe just my ignorant kid's-eye, but as a kid who got obsessed with bikes c. 1964, I virtually never saw an 18" rear on a chopper. But as old pics here and elsewhere make clear, the woods were full of 'em. Maybe a regional (Detroit area) preference for the 16"?
 
#39 ·
I think because of Easy Rider the 16" tire became suddenly so popular. From Hondas to Triumphs to any 70s chopper the 16" was the must have. Maybe also because the parts houses like Aee were pushing 16s and the fact that a correctly inflated 16 inch tire is a lot more comfortable. I like the 18" on the rear though.
 
#40 ·
I have always liked the look of 18s, but never got round to do it as it would mean (on my other bikes) a change on fender, sissy bar, etc...

So now was the perfect opportunity to get an 18!

can't wait to get working on it this evening after work.
time is scarse, I usually only get to go in the garage from 8pm when little one goes to bed, but this Saturday she's off for 2 weeks to spend Christmas at her mums, so I'll be playing garage time.
oh.. and need to do oil change in the truck, fit door locks on the econoline, practice more my upholstery and start the first project...and....and... yeh you get the idea! not enough hours in the day for me!
 
#41 ·
Got in the garage yesterday.
as usual, nothing that you buy new actually fits together. even when 2 pieces are new.
Like the axle and the axle sleeve.. clearly they don't account for the chrome, so clearance is non existent. took me ages to sand down by hand the damn axle.

Ended up not having much time.
Tried out this narrow long front I have had for ages, mainly because I was curious to see how it would look. Love the skinny look.
Not going to use it though as I want to run a front brake and it's too narrow.
for now I'll just put a wide glide, left drum brake and go with that.
A front end is something easy to swap at a later date.

anyway... some photos.





 
#46 ·
thrown a bit more at her today in between wrapping presents..

Gearbox, oil, brake linkages and forward controls.
added a split clamp and cut a set of handlebars I had made ages ago just to make her look like a motorcycle... they seem a bit too high.
but then again, in my opinion 3 things compliment eachother and can change the whole look of a bike... it's the handlebars, tank, sissy bar combo. a change on those 3 make a hell of a difference.

anyway, enough rambling.. photos!





and ended up the day putting an old sissy bar I had made years ago, just to see where we are.
My plan is to build a new out of stainless, likely with a diamond top.

 
#49 ·
got back in the garage today after the festive season and should be back in there all day tomorrow....

Not much progress...
Dropped the engine in, but have massive gaps that need shimming. On the other frame this engine was there was only shims on the front right mount.
But when I dropped the engine on this one I felt it rocking in the middle of rear mount... thought was strange.
So tighten up the rear bolt on the belt side and have massive gaps.... rear and front.
Engine is matching cases, not sure if they ever been apart.
Dont think the rear was shimmed on the old frame.. but maybe it was, I just didnt noticed when I pulled engine out.
Also, frame quality is good, it's a VG frame.... Going to pull the engine out tomorrow and see if there's any dirt under the mount.

If there's a burr or something, should be alright to just flap disc it? then shim accordingly?

Sissy bar is temporary.
Will need other rear fender too.. this one doesn't match the 18" curve as well as I initially thought...







Also.... stupidly I forgot to take my tranny plate off the old frame when I sold it... and the only one I have is off a later box. Meaning now I have the box sitting on top of it as it won't fall into the middle slots... trying to get one fast so i can crack on with lining things up.. get the belt on, chain on.. check where rear wheel is going to end up so i can then make fender mounts and all that.

 
#52 ·
Looking good so far.

Question, are you having a conflict with the sift linkage connection to the transmission ratchet hitting the oil tank?

It looks like you have an FX ratchet top, they had the linkage attach to the top of the ratchet, the FLs and all older than early 70s had the linkage attach to the bottom of the ratchet. Not positive, but the shift drum may be reversed because of that, if simply flipped on the ratchet attachment the shift pattern would be reversed.
 
#57 ·
Yes, FX ratchet.
won't be any conflict, I had this setup working when this drive train was on the 70's frame.
But I'll be going jockey shift, which is the ideal ratchet for this as it will be 1st gear forward on the stick and all other bang,bang,bang to the back.

I'd check parallel axle angle to engine mount, and trans mount angles with a digital angle level. While your at it won't hurt to check neck is perpendicular, too. A little time spent with a file will get the mounts flat and parallel.
let me see if I get it what you are explaining..
digital angle gauge (got one) mounted on top of the rear axle. check angle
then gauge on the motor mounts and see if they match the same angle?

got that right?

I would send it back, I would expect better of VG. You paid good money for that frame and you deserve better, after all it's not a VTwin frame. Even the best can make a mistake, let them correct it. It may save them grief down the road.
I did think about sending it back, but as richbob says it would be a right pain, more time waiting, etc,etc.....
Not ideal, but I did weighed that option, plus the fact they might come back and say "it's within tolerance"... so I thought hard about it and then cut the rear fuel tank mounts off... now there's no going back on the frame.

I need to find a rear fender that works well with an 18"... the one I have although is perfect in design, the curvature doesn't match the 18 perfectly as I would like. any ideas on something that would fit an 18 nicely?
 
#53 ·
I'd check parallel axle angle to engine mount, and trans mount angles with a digital angle level. While your at it won't hurt to check neck is perpendicular, too. A little time spent with a file will get the mounts flat and parallel.
 
#60 ·
I saw that how to on lowbrow website about using 2x4 wood planks and open up the edges so the radius open... so I'll give that a go first this weekend, but I'll have a look at those guys too, i'm not far form Bournemouth
 
#62 ·
Top