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Slaughterhouse Sally 63 Pan

47K views 249 replies 34 participants last post by  slvrx 
#1 · (Edited)
After a profitable year and being able to comfortably pay taxes I decided to get a Panhead. After looking locally I hit the auction site. $25-30K was way outta budget and the only thing that caught my eye was this 63 swingarm.

Of course I cringed when I saw the color and the pinstripes. Not to mention the shop name all over it. Found the same thing listed on Craigs and made contact. A deal was made and owner took listing off of auction site.

Onto the Porn.....

As she sits today.


The Glory Days.


Should be obvious to all that Suckerpunch built this bike. Not much info on their build as far as I can find. Lots of info on shop after Old Man Clayton burned a few.

So I pick her up last Sunday in BFE Oklahoma. Damn near Kansas border.
Owner Nick does a cold start ritual, and no dice. Waits a few and tries again. Glory Be, she's a runner ! Rocker clutch and Jockey shift. This will be interesting as I have never ridden that setup. Gravel road also. While my wife makes chit-chat w owner I tootle down the drive only to kill it at the road. Fuck. I hope she starts again. She does and off I go. I'm good till time to turn around. Back into first. Wait, where is first again ? Got it. Painful amount of gas and ease the clutch only to rocket down the gravel road with shit flying everywhere. Oh yeah, interesting. I manage to not look like a retard when pulling into driveway only to realize the brakes are shitty. Well, its a long driveway and I make a stop. Big grin on my face and off to do some paperwork ($).

The good:

Clean paperwork.
Recent(verifiable) rebuild on engine. Longbow Customs. See Facebook for build.
Factory frame, transmission, forks.

The bad:

Did I mention it has Suckerpunch all over it ?
Not a fan of turquoise.
Shovel swingarm/brakes.
Lack of braking.
It has Suckerpunch all over it
Seat is lame.
Super B w/ Superbowl is a bit funky when she's hot. Starting ritual is being worked out between she and I.
And it has Suckerpunch all over it.







Kick pedal looks like a chick on rollerskates and a cowboy hat taking a dump. Classy !
 
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#124 ·
Some people pin exhausts in place. Not that uncommon. It may well be related to the rub spot on your trans... the pipe may have been pinned in place to keep it from rotating by a rural engineer.

I know you feel overwhelmed right now, but this is the sort of stuff you find on a bike that's passed through several sets of hands. It's genuinely, really not as bad as it could be. It ain't great, but with some work you can set all this right.

The check ball is not a huge deal at all. There's a fella making a really nice tool you can get on Cycle Dope that restores that seat. Add a new spring and a ball and you've got that problem licked.

The axle is just going to be a case of finding the right piece and making some spacers. Fiddly and time-consuming, but no biggie.

The timing plug may be a bit of a bitch. I assume you know the right way to fix that, but if you don't want to do that, I wonder if running shop air into the case might allow you to use a bottoming tap and recut some threads for an oversized plug.

Anyone ever do that?

And while the manual doesn't say to use an NPT plug in there, it's been done many times over the years with great success. Food for thought.
 
#126 ·
Drill the port, drill the pipe, and slide (or press or hammer!) something in as a dowel to prevent rotational motion.

Harley did the same thing on manifold nipples from the factory on Knuckles and Pans; probably where the guy got the idea.

You'll see fins drilled and springs used to do (sort of) the same thing.
 
#128 ·
Question....


The plug/bolt between lifter blocks... screen and filter belong there ?
Right now there is only the plug.




This is the kind of shit I'm getting twisted over. I have receipts for PO's engine "rebuild". I starting to believe the paperwork is fiction rather than fact. I get it. Owner says to mechanic, "just do enough so I can sell it". Mechanic sacrifices his principles (if he had any) due to lack of billable hours.

My biggest concern is has the bottom end been done properly. Time will tell.
 
#129 ·
couple of different styles of pre filters were used in the pan blocks before and after hydraulic lifters but - you need the block date code inside the cases as everything we see today is blended the numbers usually don't match the out side whats inside or the bottom numbers


having said that picture the plug nut that comes out is the screwhead top short or thick
 
#130 ·
couple of different styles of pre filters were used in the pan blocks before and after hydraulic lifters but - you need the block date code inside the cases as everything we see today is blended the numbers usually don't match the out side whats inside or the bottom numbers

having said that picture the plug nut that comes out is the screwhead top short or thick


 
#131 ·
Back to piston slop.

Removed pistons/jugs. Front was the worst. Back not too bad.








Interesting spin of scoring at base of cylinders.

Dimensions:

Front Jug 3.484
Front Piston 3.473

Rear Jug 3.478
Rear Piston. 3.475

So we have the rear not so bad and the front is jacked. Dig out the dial indicator to check rod shake.

Front Rod 0.040 measured at top of rod, above pin bore.
Rear Rod 0.015 measured same.
Thats with crank at bottom to help eliminate false readings. I realize the front rod would typically have a little more shake but seems excessive.

Question.....is that too much shake at the front and would that cause the funky scoring of jugs ?
 
#134 ·
Metal ruler laid up against base studs, wrist pin in and measures really close. Off by a thou or two. I would say square.
 
#133 ·
Oh, yeah... more WTF.

What the fuck is this tab for? If I remove it will the Pan Police arrest me and send me to Siberia?


What the fuck would someone dent the oil tank to make it fit?


No spacers between battery plate and frame. Front or back. Would the spacers lift the front of tank enough to clear or does everyone take a hammer and "massage" it into place?
 
#136 ·
I did have one thing go right this weekend.

While go thru the "hoard" I found a gas cap cover purchased years ago. Wasnt aluminum nor lead. Maybe a lead/tin hybrid of sorts. Anyway...curved to fit gas cap and I says to myself " Hmm, wonder if it will fit over the tail light ?". Lo and behold, it does. So like any god fearing man who doesnt have enough scars on his hands, I go at it with mini hacksaw and mini file.

Feast your eyes



I will take any victory at this point, be it large or small.
 
#138 ·
Those marks in the jugs have me thinking Id check the rollers in the cases. Only way I can think of for a piston to turn in the bore is if the rods have lots of slop or crank is sloppy in the case.

Looks like the piston is moving weirdly as the forces applied are some how moving out of alignment towards the bottom of the stroke. I know what Im thinking but having a hard time communicating.
 
#139 ·
Those marks in the jugs have me thinking Id check the rollers in the cases. Only way I can think of for a piston to turn in the bore is if the rods have lots of slop or crank is sloppy in the case.

Looks like the piston is moving weirdly as the forces applied are some how moving out of alignment towards the bottom of the stroke. I know what Im thinking but having a hard time communicating.
Im thinking the same thing. If wheels are slightly off square or pinion/sprocket are a bit off then "something" would rotate in misalignment.
Then again, case bearings could be at fault. Maybe a combo of many little things. Thats the Sally way.
 
#140 ·
what the screw and the top fitting is your engine block is a top oiler that came along at the end of the panhead era 1963 to 1965 only had that


the jugs did not see the top but besides the bolt holes one larger hole would be that drain back for the heads = if a smaller hole is in the top and the base they are pan head internal oiling engine cylinder


the top end oiling you might have - must be picked up from the oil pressure switch on the oil pump and that original pump was a cast iron type 1967 last year iron pump but might have been converted to the alloy type


you need a gray hair to help you identify what they did and if its correct - it could be


the pistons with the black coating on the Taiwanese pistons is bull it sheds no matter who does the cylinders - TODAY cast pistons need .003 to run air cooled correctly in the bores - they are actually not that bad being in the south like you are with the heat and todays gas
 
#142 ·
I went to the local shop that has been recommended for Mid-Century bikes.
When he asked if he could help me, all i said was "panhead cylinders" and he shook his head and said " No". I explained that I have cylinders. I showed my jugs to him(insert bad joke) and he said "lower end problem". I explained my rod shake(insert bad joke) issue which he took me to a bench with fresh shovel short block. After lightly wiggling those rods(insert bad joke) I do believe a case splitting is in order.
 
#143 ·
The tab on the frame under the tanks you asked about is the throttle cable stop boss. Bike originally had hard push wire throttle. There was a clamp there to hold the outer cable. Depends on running a Linkert with the throttle plate arm at the top.

It's your frame, do whatever the fuck you want with it.

People that are inclined to bitch can go out and buy their own bike to preserve.

No real benefit to cutting it off though.

Jason
 
#144 ·
The tab on the frame under the tanks you asked about is the throttle cable stop boss. Bike originally had hard push wire throttle. There was a clamp there to hold the outer cable. Depends on running a Linkert with the throttle plate arm at the top.

It's your frame, do whatever the fuck you want with it.

People that are inclined to bitch can go out and buy their own bike to preserve.

No real benefit to cutting it off though.

Jason
"May" run sporty tank. Tab would have to go. I know...gremlin bell. Could be the real problem.

Solo seat so I "may" cut off rear peg mounts to clean up that part of the frame. This is what happens when you cant ride it and sit around smoking cigs and stare.
 
#145 ·
My swing arm frame has that same gusset added and weld repair, I knew exactly what you were going to find under the cloth. My frame also has a repair just below that gusset. Follow straight down to the bottom of the frame then move about an inch towards the front of the bike. You might want to check your frame in that location.
 
#146 ·
Good to know somebody is looking at this bucket of bolts.

Frame looks good, at least in the gusset/forging area. Thanks for the heads up (or heads under).

Slow going on my end. I did manage to "wander" into a friends shop that has a lathe. Having only watched someone turn a couple of things for me, I was hoping to get some time on the machine myself. Was shown how to turn it on and left to figure it out.

The results...Pan shock bolts nibbled to 1/2". Axle spacers. 1st spacer is a bit rough but next was far better.



I also picked up an oil tank. Well aged Santee. No provision for drain. Also has a bit of steel into the fill neck.




Any ideas on drain and neck? Shovel style dipstick/plug will not seat until neck is addressed.
 
#149 ·
I have been following your build and hoped you might chime in. I can only assume the battery tray you made was due to the frame not having the same mounts as BT frames. Thanks for the advise.

As far as dipsticks go, Most new aftermarket units fit great for about 1K miles and then the rubber hardens up and shrinks enough to leak. Cutting a portion off may allow that to happen sooner. I'm thinking of running a 1-1/8" hole saw down the filler to cut out the offending piece. It may be possible to pressurize the tank from 3/8's outlets to blow the "glitter" out while cutting. As long as I dont get cheap perfume on me, the wife wont think I've been at the titty bar.
 
#150 ·
Cut threads ? No freaking way. Just trimmed the shank from 5/8 to 1/2.

BTW, the lathe is a 6 jaw, 3 phase monstrosity. 3/4" is as small as it will chuck up. I only fucked up 1 cutter running machine the wrong direction while beveling the inside edge of 1st spacer. What I really want to learn is how to radius.
 
#155 ·
I used a freeze plug for a cap, with a wingnut - Ratso

After looking again I decided to cut the plug. Better to wrap a bloody cut w an oily rag than fling the tank and splint a broken finger. All good, no wounds.

Freeze plug was the backup for the Shovel. Now that I am an expert machinist :p I bet some crazy idea for alum freeze plug/nut will come soon.
 
#154 ·
I was given a cylindrical aluminum oil tank that had once had a threaded cap, long since vanished. Somehow the internal threads in the tank spigot had gotten slutted out. To get to the point: I used a freeze plug for a cap, with a wingnut for ease of use. It lasted me for tens of thousands of miles without leaking or going AWOL, and is probably still working fine for the turd who stole the bike. Cost about $4.
 
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