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Slaughterhouse Sally 63 Pan

47K views 249 replies 34 participants last post by  slvrx 
#1 · (Edited)
After a profitable year and being able to comfortably pay taxes I decided to get a Panhead. After looking locally I hit the auction site. $25-30K was way outta budget and the only thing that caught my eye was this 63 swingarm.

Of course I cringed when I saw the color and the pinstripes. Not to mention the shop name all over it. Found the same thing listed on Craigs and made contact. A deal was made and owner took listing off of auction site.

Onto the Porn.....

As she sits today.


The Glory Days.


Should be obvious to all that Suckerpunch built this bike. Not much info on their build as far as I can find. Lots of info on shop after Old Man Clayton burned a few.

So I pick her up last Sunday in BFE Oklahoma. Damn near Kansas border.
Owner Nick does a cold start ritual, and no dice. Waits a few and tries again. Glory Be, she's a runner ! Rocker clutch and Jockey shift. This will be interesting as I have never ridden that setup. Gravel road also. While my wife makes chit-chat w owner I tootle down the drive only to kill it at the road. Fuck. I hope she starts again. She does and off I go. I'm good till time to turn around. Back into first. Wait, where is first again ? Got it. Painful amount of gas and ease the clutch only to rocket down the gravel road with shit flying everywhere. Oh yeah, interesting. I manage to not look like a retard when pulling into driveway only to realize the brakes are shitty. Well, its a long driveway and I make a stop. Big grin on my face and off to do some paperwork ($).

The good:

Clean paperwork.
Recent(verifiable) rebuild on engine. Longbow Customs. See Facebook for build.
Factory frame, transmission, forks.

The bad:

Did I mention it has Suckerpunch all over it ?
Not a fan of turquoise.
Shovel swingarm/brakes.
Lack of braking.
It has Suckerpunch all over it
Seat is lame.
Super B w/ Superbowl is a bit funky when she's hot. Starting ritual is being worked out between she and I.
And it has Suckerpunch all over it.







Kick pedal looks like a chick on rollerskates and a cowboy hat taking a dump. Classy !
 
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#96 ·
As far as grease on the switch, I only dabbed a minor amount where metal to metal contact is on the case. I have nothing on brass "nubs" or barbell. I do have an old can of silly cone grease to use on wire terminals but will leave brass alone.


Speaking of barbell, if you look at pic you can see a groove where nubs have left their mark. I rotated barbell 120 degrees to get fresh meat on the nubs. That leaves another 120 degrees for the next switch rebuild. Hopefully another 50 years down the road.


I remember the electronics classes I took in high school and thought 12 ga wire was the way to go. Although the old shovel rewire I did 10 years ago was all 14/16 ga. I dont recall what the regulator wire gauge was. 32 amp Softail setup. I like my batteries over charged to keep the ass warm on cold rides.
 
#99 ·
While soaking swingarm in Evaporust I tossed dirty dash base into the drink and gave it a stir. Sprinkle some magic fairy dust and we have super clean !



Another from the back. Bulb sockets look OK also



So lets chat about wire routing. Obviously, the primary from regulator has to go back to battery. I would think(as did previous butcher) up the leg, down backbone. Switch connects are down the backbone as well.

Is there a better, sanitary route ? Lets recall the burnt wire from a few post previous. Other than brake light switch, aint much on right side.

Current debauchery

 
#103 ·
Thank you gentlemen. I try to do things "right" the first time around.


The shrink tubing has hot glue inside. That may stay put for a while but will be a "hot" mess if something goes wrong later. All connections have solder and a small loop should the need to re-terminate pop up.


Asphalt wire loom was chosen because I like the look when weathered. I also like getting tar all over everything. LOL.
 
#105 ·
For those who dont know, I'm a bargain hunter. I like good stuff cheap and cheap stuff practically free. That being said, I found a cheap fender. $29 to be exact. Didnt expect much and thats what I got. Not much. 6 out of 8 mounts "line up" without too much persuasion. Of course it wont line up with strut nub.Hang it on frame and its tweaked like a 3 week bender.

So what do you do with a shitty fender ? Hack it up !


2x3 board to twist fender into place. Leave overnight and it not awful, just crappy.



Eyeball some relatively square line for cuts.



Chop and tack.


On left side the radius isnt perfect. Right side is much better. Cheap ass fender is gonna mess with me the whole way. I need the correct bolts for mounting and see if I can get the POS on the struts AND the frame.
 
#106 ·
Spent the afternoon doing the bolt-hole-boogie on the rear fender.


Still a PIA to line up bolts. Not uncommon for import fenders. Here's the rub..even with most bolts in, on the frame, the whole fender is whack. There are pre-drilled holes for trim and plate mount that are off and the crown of fender has a visible twist.



Only solution I can come up with is cut out the threaded nut-certs from inside fender and see if it I can pull the damn thing into alignment. Twisting struts helps but doesn't overcome shitty manufacturing.



Or better yet, ditch this hunk of junk and find something better.
 
#109 ·
Dump the Taiwain Ted shitpile and hit the swap meets. If you don't have any close by, or at all, let me know and I will sell you a OEM for 38.99 plus shipping. haha It may need touching up, or a hole or two welded from previous seat mounts, but it will fit the mounts and the shape will be correct.

I love my old sayings, and this one is one of my favorites. "If you can't afford to do it right the first time,,,, what makes you think you can afford to do it twice?" Sorry, but it is true. And to be honest, I am not sorry either. haha

Aftermarket stuff can be worse than having to scrub the old chrome off and paint it. I purchased a set of pan rocker covers for a customer, and had to redrill half the mounting holes to make them match the heads and d rings. Farking cheap shit is nothing like it used to be when we used to bitch about "made in Japan". Now, that stuff is golden.
 
#112 ·
I havent given up completely.



Further investigation reveals right strut isnt straight w frame. No big deal, file the nub or shim at shock mount.



Rim is offset to left by at least a 1/4".


Shovel swingarm looks to have a slight twist up on right side.






I should have known. The whole thing has stupid(sucker punch) written all over it.








Tin work shelved for the time being and off to do round swinger and true up the rim.
 
#113 ·
Shovit..pm sent


Jaws..no matter how many times you suggest the long bike, it aint gonna happen. Too much shit in the garage. Wont fit.


Ratso... I like the way you think. Practical solutions in an unpossible world. Maybe some fringe to hide the ugly. Isnt that what long beards are for ?
 
#114 ·
Shovit..pm sent

Jaws..no matter how many times you suggest the long bike, it aint gonna happen. Too much shit in the garage. Wont fit.

Ratso... I like the way you think. Practical solutions in an unpossible world. Maybe some fringe to hide the ugly. Isnt that what long beards are for ?
Tater, pm read and responded.
And yes, long beards are for covering up ugly. Ask shovithead…..;)
 

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#118 ·
Its been a while and this thread was in danger of the dreaded "3rd page". Bumped back to main page.

So some have read the pan cover re-bolt thread. In process to find a local (withing a 3 hour radius) repair shop. Emails out to shops in the Western Hemisphere. LOL. It seems some well advertised shops wont fix pan heads even tho they have photos on website. Other option is used head. Not much luck so far. That leaves "replica" heads. Teds that are actually available in the '63-'65 model have shovel exhaust ports and a minimum of $1k for a pair. STD heads are $2k. Add tax and shipping. That kind of money had me looking at S&S Shovel package that would include jugs/pistons. I know...pan people would give me a black eye for even considering that option.

Meanwhile, the ass end gets some much needed love.

Swingarm mounted fender







So we have a '90 XL fender in fiberglass. Used a handful of Lowbrow parts for mounts/struts. I tacked the welds and let my welder finish it off. Next door to the welder is an older gentleman who has a machine shop. Together, he and I bent the rods for struts, and he turned the Duo shock mounts so I could fit 12" Dyna shocks. Why Dyna shocks ? Cheap and still in great shape. New PM caliper as the FabKev bracket did not work with round swinger.

Last pic is a cover made to hide the battery. Dou oil tanks have the battery "flags" which made the cover supper easy. 90 degree bend on bottom for lower mounts and 2 bolt holes up top. I picked up a $17 dimple die off of Amazon and went for it.
 
#119 ·
That fender has very much a Jap vibe about it! in a good way of course! I'd try and look for a reconditioned head, they come up on instagram and other places fairly regular, later external oilers I would imagine will be fairly plentiful too.. then maybe when you can afford it get your current fixed as a spare!
 
#120 ·
Found locals who can make repairs to head(s). Said all the right things and asked all the right questions. Even found cracks at spark plug within seconds of handling.:) One will weld, another to do seats/valves.



Teardown shows intake spring/collar grinding on pan cover. May have something to do with seat being too damn deep.


Dont worry...I will ask a million questions when I get the bare heads back.
 
#121 ·
Its been quiet in TATERland so lets catch up....

WHAT THE FUCK ?!?

Ok, got that out of my system. I have come to the conclusion the everything on this bike either:

A. Must be repaired now

or

B. Will be repaired in the very near future.

The only difference between Option A and Option B what I have found already.

So the saga of cylinder heads is "to be continued" . They are in capable hands and I have to wait my turn. Here is a glimpse of only a minor portion of that abortion.

Rocker block hardware. Catch as catch can. WTF?



Mounting hole for exhaust. I found a carpet tack (you know, that wood strip that follows the baseboard for carpet, yeah...the one you step on) under the exhaust clamp. WTF? After that revelation, I noticed other heads on the WWW that had the same shit. Must be common. Another wonderful exhaust surprise, tho not an issue yet, is the old pipe rubbing the tranny (insert bad joke). Not sure if the "cut-out" is a factory idea or just the realities of poor craftsmanship and execution.



Axles for round swingers and disco brakes. There is another WTF. Searched for days and never found the definitive answer other than " I tried this and it seemed to work.". Factory early shovel was suggested as the correct item, nope 11/16"($15). Shovel square swinger axle was a no-go due to length(free, came with bike and buggered where spacers ride). Supposed Pan axle no good( length and bent. $25). I finaly settled for a springer front axle. Good length and pretty acorn nuts($40). Of course I expect that one to bend after the first speed bump.

So while ol' sally has been riding the lift, I have had plenty of time to chain smoke and find all kinds of WTFs.

Pistons a little loose in the bore. No problem. 0.050" now and might clean up to 0.060".

Noticed some seepage at timing plug and sprocket seal when turning her over. You guessed it...timing plug stripped. But what about the seal? I scratched my head with nicotine stained fingers and looking into oil tank. WTF, where has the oil gone to ? D'oh ! Into the case, I assume. Oil pump check valve has the be the culprit.

Checking other spots for balls/screens and we find locked down oil screen plug on the case. Had to get out the weapons on that one.


Impact driver bit turned into a propeller shape. Next up, pneumatic impact with draglink bit. No sweat..can be turned down to nothing and I eased into some pressure and with 1 "brap" its loose.


I have plenty more "WTFs" on the way.
 
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