Disk Brake Conversion on Wishbone Frame

[FredoTwoWheels]

Hello, been a while since I posted here. Yesterday was the second time I broke the linkage on my mechanical rear. Both times I was lucky enough to not be in any traffic, both times were minutes after splitting lanes and going freeway speeds, so I think I may have pushed my luck enough. Besides that, there has always been a death rattle that shakes my whole bike when I hit the mechanical brake, so maybe I should just go ahead and put something reliable on.

Looking to build a dual flange and put a nice disk on it. I am curious what people are doing with their master cylinder mounts on a stock rigid frame. Also what are my options for American made master cylinders? Calipers too, if someone has any strong opinions. Thanks in advance.

Also, I'm still running a dual action front drum, but it still barely holds me on a hill, so anyone have a link on a detailed setup procedure that may include anything I may have missed?

[dusterdude]

My panhead has a 70's ish fl rear wheel with a gmb caliper and a homemade bracket.the master bolts to the lug on the front of the frame that the brake pedal bracket bolts to.iirc,the brake pedal is also 70's vintage.the first master I had on the bike was the wagner-lockheed style then I changed to a 70's fx style iirc again.

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[dusterdude]

Also,when I had the drum brake hydra-glide on the front,the brake sucked big time.I finally put a 90's era fx softail front end on it

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[ElekVins]

What about a juice drum?
They work well and retain a classic look

[FredoTwoWheels]

Originally Posted by ElekVins

What about a juice drum?
They work well and retain a classic look

Havent seen a nice way to anchor them without welding on the frame that allows the stud enough free room for chain adjustment. Also would potentially need to widen the axle space from what I have heard, though I suspect this had already been done on mine.

[Dutch Dennoz]

Originally Posted by FredoTwoWheels

Havent seen a nice way to anchor them without welding on the frame that allows the stud enough free room for chain adjustment. Also would potentially need to widen the axle space from what I have heard, though I suspect this had already been done on mine.

I dont see the struggle, always something possible!

[ElekVins]

Neat little part build by Wargasser, no welding required...

[FredoTwoWheels]

Originally Posted by Dutch Dennoz

I dont see the struggle, always something possible!

Never seen someone do it that simply before, must be a reason that orientation is avoided.

[FredoTwoWheels]

Originally Posted by ElekVins

Neat little part build by Wargasser, no welding required...

My friend bought one of these but it does not allow for any movement of the wheel in the axle plate to adjust chain tension.

[rhysmort]

Originally Posted by FredoTwoWheels

Hello, been a while since I posted here. Yesterday was the second time I broke the linkage on my mechanical rear. Both times I was lucky enough to not be in any traffic, both times were minutes after splitting lanes and going freeway speeds, so I think I may have pushed my luck enough. Besides that, there has always been a death rattle that shakes my whole bike when I hit the mechanical brake, so maybe I should just go ahead and put something reliable on.

Looking to build a dual flange and put a nice disk on it. I am curious what people are doing with their master cylinder mounts on a stock rigid frame. Also what are my options for American made master cylinders? Calipers too, if someone has any strong opinions. Thanks in advance.

Also, I'm still running a dual action front drum, but it still barely holds me on a hill, so anyone have a link on a detailed setup procedure that may include anything I may have missed?

Hey bud,

If your bike is 'death rattling' and snapping linkages like that, there must be something that's not spaced properly, or the spacer you're using is wrong for the mech drum. I've never had a linkage go, let alone any bad rattles from my drum.

I appreciate you may want to change, but may be worth investigating why it's doing that rattle, sounds like something out of true, spaced badly or just not right.

[Dutch Dennoz]

Originally Posted by FredoTwoWheels

My friend bought one of these but it does not allow for any movement of the wheel in the axle plate to adjust chain tension.

Wargasser 2.0 ??

[Dutch Dennoz]

I have to correct myself , i looked them up , there is a slotted hole in vertical direction that should do the trick , they are a bit shy on the dimensions of the hole, they are not shy on the price though...80 bucks...wow

[FredoTwoWheels]

Originally Posted by rhysmort

Hey bud,

If your bike is 'death rattling' and snapping linkages like that, there must be something that's not spaced properly, or the spacer you're using is wrong for the mech drum. I've never had a linkage go, let alone any bad rattles from my drum.

I appreciate you may want to change, but may be worth investigating why it's doing that rattle, sounds like something out of true, spaced badly or just not right.

Could be. I was always curious about this gap. It squeezes in the axle plates when I tighten it down and there is no play, but still thought it was odd. The axle isnt long enough to secure if I had a spacer filling it. Same old man that told me that I would need to widen the axles told me that if I measured mine I would probably find someone had already done it at some point but again, idk. He is a very knowledgeable man running a shop for 50+ years, but he was very antiquated with his ideas.

This is the first time I broke a rod, the first time I sheared a cotter pin. I use key ring loops now. Another mentor always said mechanical brakes put too much trust in a bobby pin and shit if I didnt prove him right.

[rhysmort]

Originally Posted by FredoTwoWheels

Could be. I was always curious about this gap. It squeezes in the axle plates when I tighten it down and there is no play, but still thought it was odd. The axle isnt long enough to secure if I had a spacer filling it. Same old man that told me that I would need to widen the axles told me that if I measured mine I would probably find someone had already done it at some point but again, idk. He is a very knowledgeable man running a shop for 50+ years, but he was very antiquated with his ideas.

This is the first time I broke a rod, the first time I sheared a cotter pin. I use key ring loops now. Another mentor always said mechanical brakes put too much trust in a bobby pin and shit if I didnt prove him right.

They all pull in a little, but damn that looks a lot to pull in.

Yeah fuck a cotter pin man, I have a bolt with a nylock nut on the back of mine and it's locktited. Anything that's maliable to that degree, it's worth drilling out and making secure! I only have a back brake so need it to be there for me!!

[ElekVins]

Originally Posted by FredoTwoWheels

My friend bought one of these but it does not allow for any movement of the wheel in the axle plate to adjust chain tension.

Originally Posted by Dutch Dennoz

I have to correct myself , i looked them up , there is a slotted hole in vertical direction that should do the trick , they are a bit shy on the dimensions of the hole, they are not shy on the price though...80 bucks...wow

I don't know the size of the slot in the wargasser part but FYI, H-D original slot is only 11/16" (the bolt that go thru is 5/8") and it works as it should.

[ElekVins]

Thought about you when I saw this ad in a mag today.
Made by Fab Kevin, they look pretty good for a modern ad on I think

[Ratso]

Maybe I am wrong and should be shot for it, but a quick reread doesn't show me that your mention of the (characteristicall, I guess?) horrible front brake went anywhere in terms of attracting advice. Here I am to save the day.

You probly don't need me to tell you that on a bike with two functional brakes, the front handles, like, 85% of the stopping. A good back brake is only as effective as traction allows. You can lock up your hind wheel easy, but then it'll just skate along helplessly. (I'm overstating this, but not by much.) Rear-to-front redistribution of the bike's weight takes place when it slows down abruptly, by whatever means (engine braking, back brake, t-boning a school bus). If you're using a front brake, that weight transfer is good; using the back brake, it makes matters worse.

If your bike was mine, which, I should be so lucky, I'd fix the rear brake enough so it doesn't break when used; but I'd put my effort and money into a real good, or even a pretty good, front disc.

I know a disc is an anachronism on a Pan, and yeah there are aesthetic arguments for running a spool front or an incompetent period-correct front brake, but you're already talking about running a disc, so why not put it where it'll help you the most?

End of sermon.

[FredoTwoWheels]

Originally Posted by Ratso

Maybe I am wrong and should be shot for it, but a quick reread doesn't show me that your mention of the (characteristicall, I guess?) horrible front brake went anywhere in terms of attracting advice. Here I am to save the day.

You probly don't need me to tell you that on a bike with two functional brakes, the front handles, like, 85% of the stopping. A good back brake is only as effective as traction allows. You can lock up your hind wheel easy, but then it'll just skate along helplessly. (I'm overstating this, but not by much.) Rear-to-front redistribution of the bike's weight takes place when it slows down abruptly, by whatever means (engine braking, back brake, t-boning a school bus). If you're using a front brake, that weight transfer is good; using the back brake, it makes matters worse.

If your bike was mine, which, I should be so lucky, I'd fix the rear brake enough so it doesn't break when used; but I'd put my effort and money into a real good, or even a pretty good, front disc.

I know a disc is an anachronism on a Pan, and yeah there are aesthetic arguments for running a spool front or an incompetent period-correct front brake, but you're already talking about running a disc, so why not put it where it'll help you the most?

End of sermon.

Hear all of this, but a disk up front is the most detrimental to a classic look imo. It would also add a large unsightly reservoir to my handlebars that I would have to stare at all ride every ride. I have however, considered the Cannonball springer drums that are hydraulic. But I couldnt get myself past the control. A disk on the rear, while not aesthetically ideal, is still more forgivable.

[FredoTwoWheels]

Originally Posted by ElekVins

Thought about you when I saw this ad in a mag today.
Made by Fab Kevin, they look pretty good for a modern ad on I think

Thanks, this gives me an idea.

[NZT100]

I made one of the Wargasser style juice brake stays for my build out of 6mm 316 SS, as has been mentioned it uses a vertical slot that allows chain tension adjustment. Mine works perfectly.

I'm hesitant to give out dimensions as ultimately i copied the Wargaser style and don't want to go about trying to damage someone business by giving out instructions on copying product, but what i can do is sent you an extra one i made that is ready to go.

If you decide to go this route let me know and i can send it your way for postage only, might be $15 US, i'm in New Zealand so has a ways to travel.