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#1 |
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Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: LA
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Hello, been a while since I posted here. Yesterday was the second time I broke the linkage on my mechanical rear. Both times I was lucky enough to not be in any traffic, both times were minutes after splitting lanes and going freeway speeds, so I think I may have pushed my luck enough. Besides that, there has always been a death rattle that shakes my whole bike when I hit the mechanical brake, so maybe I should just go ahead and put something reliable on.
Looking to build a dual flange and put a nice disk on it. I am curious what people are doing with their master cylinder mounts on a stock rigid frame. Also what are my options for American made master cylinders? Calipers too, if someone has any strong opinions. Thanks in advance. Also, I'm still running a dual action front drum, but it still barely holds me on a hill, so anyone have a link on a detailed setup procedure that may include anything I may have missed?
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#2 |
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Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: US
Posts: 75
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My panhead has a 70's ish fl rear wheel with a gmb caliper and a homemade bracket.the master bolts to the lug on the front of the frame that the brake pedal bracket bolts to.iirc,the brake pedal is also 70's vintage.the first master I had on the bike was the wagner-lockheed style then I changed to a 70's fx style iirc again.
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#3 |
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Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: US
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Also,when I had the drum brake hydra-glide on the front,the brake sucked big time.I finally put a 90's era fx softail front end on it
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#4 |
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Europe
Posts: 612
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What about a juice drum?
They work well and retain a classic look |
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#5 |
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Location: LA
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Havent seen a nice way to anchor them without welding on the frame that allows the stud enough free room for chain adjustment. Also would potentially need to widen the axle space from what I have heard, though I suspect this had already been done on mine.
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#6 | |
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Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Leiden
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I dont see the struggle, always something possible!
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#7 |
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Join Date: Apr 2012
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Neat little part build by Wargasser, no welding required...
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#8 |
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Location: LA
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Never seen someone do it that simply before, must be a reason that orientation is avoided.
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#9 |
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My friend bought one of these but it does not allow for any movement of the wheel in the axle plate to adjust chain tension.
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#10 | |
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If your bike is 'death rattling' and snapping linkages like that, there must be something that's not spaced properly, or the spacer you're using is wrong for the mech drum. I've never had a linkage go, let alone any bad rattles from my drum. I appreciate you may want to change, but may be worth investigating why it's doing that rattle, sounds like something out of true, spaced badly or just not right. |
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#11 | |
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Join Date: Apr 2020
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Wargasser 2.0 ??
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#12 |
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I have to correct myself , i looked them up , there is a slotted hole in vertical direction that should do the trick , they are a bit shy on the dimensions of the hole, they are not shy on the price though...80 bucks...wow
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#13 | |
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Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: LA
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This is the first time I broke a rod, the first time I sheared a cotter pin. I use key ring loops now. Another mentor always said mechanical brakes put too much trust in a bobby pin and shit if I didnt prove him right.
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#14 | |
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Yeah fuck a cotter pin man, I have a bolt with a nylock nut on the back of mine and it's locktited. Anything that's maliable to that degree, it's worth drilling out and making secure! I only have a back brake so need it to be there for me!! |
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#15 | ||
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Join Date: Apr 2012
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I don't know the size of the slot in the wargasser part but FYI, H-D original slot is only 11/16" (the bolt that go thru is 5/8") and it works as it should. |
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#16 |
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Join Date: Apr 2012
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Thought about you when I saw this ad in a mag today.
Made by Fab Kevin, they look pretty good for a modern ad on I think |
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#17 |
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Maybe I am wrong and should be shot for it, but a quick reread doesn't show me that your mention of the (characteristicall, I guess?) horrible front brake went anywhere in terms of attracting advice. Here I am to save the day.
You probly don't need me to tell you that on a bike with two functional brakes, the front handles, like, 85% of the stopping. A good back brake is only as effective as traction allows. You can lock up your hind wheel easy, but then it'll just skate along helplessly. (I'm overstating this, but not by much.) Rear-to-front redistribution of the bike's weight takes place when it slows down abruptly, by whatever means (engine braking, back brake, t-boning a school bus). If you're using a front brake, that weight transfer is good; using the back brake, it makes matters worse. If your bike was mine, which, I should be so lucky, I'd fix the rear brake enough so it doesn't break when used; but I'd put my effort and money into a real good, or even a pretty good, front disc. I know a disc is an anachronism on a Pan, and yeah there are aesthetic arguments for running a spool front or an incompetent period-correct front brake, but you're already talking about running a disc, so why not put it where it'll help you the most? End of sermon. |
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#18 | |
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#19 |
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Thanks, this gives me an idea.
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#20 |
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Christchurch, NewZealand
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I made one of the Wargasser style juice brake stays for my build out of 6mm 316 SS, as has been mentioned it uses a vertical slot that allows chain tension adjustment. Mine works perfectly.
I'm hesitant to give out dimensions as ultimately i copied the Wargaser style and don't want to go about trying to damage someone business by giving out instructions on copying product, but what i can do is sent you an extra one i made that is ready to go. If you decide to go this route let me know and i can send it your way for postage only, might be $15 US, i'm in New Zealand so has a ways to travel. |
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