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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Arizona
Posts: 149
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After reading on JJ for a while and becoming a member a little while ago, I decided I wanted to try my hand at a Triumph build. Anyways, I have been in the process of getting parts from here and there. I'm on a limited budget as most of you can appreciate, so I am taking my time and waiting for parts to come up that I can afford. The frame originally had some nasty welds and tons of surface rust. I blasted it, ground off the bad welds, and welded it back up. Still needs some work but its better than before. The tank a buddy of mine gave me for free
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#2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Arizona
Posts: 149
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These are some before pictures. Someone wanted to weld up the bolt on hardtail so I re-welded it after sandblast and ground it smooth. Motor was sitting for a long while. Have it down to the sludge tube now. Time for the rebuild.
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Arizona
Posts: 149
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Crank needed so be cleaned pretty badly. Had all sorts of surface rust as well as crap in the sludge trap. Soaked it overnight and went to town on it.
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 439
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Nice start!
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#5 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Mansfield, IL
Posts: 184
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Looks like a really good start from where I'm sitting! Slow and steady as she goes. I'm still working on my build and it's been at least three years. Hopefully this summer.
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#6 |
Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Nebraska
Posts: 51
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Looks good so far!!
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#7 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: seattle
Posts: 537
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looks great. good luck.
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#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Arizona
Posts: 149
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Okay... Cams looked a little rough. Tried to clean them up without taking material away to affect the lobes. Do you guys think they are ok to run? Any feedback on this would be helpful.
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#9 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Florida
Posts: 24
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Looks good man I hope to have my first build soon!
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#10 |
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Colorado
Posts: 18
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Great start man, I am in the same situation. Just starting out and looking for parts online as I can buy them. Where did you get the front forks from? I enjoy all of us starting somewhere, makes it seem not so impossible!
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#11 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Arizona
Posts: 149
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Thanks... Front forks bought off an e-site/auction. They are 72 forks. I turned some adapters to fit the stem in order to run pre-OIF neck bearings from lowbrow. Worked out pretty good. Forks were 6" over originally but took them back to stock height.
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#12 |
Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: California
Posts: 48
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Super start,keep up the good work.
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#13 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Arizona
Posts: 149
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Been busy with life so haven't had a lot of time to work on the bike. This is what I have been working on though. This is my first real attempt at making anything out of sheetmetal. I decided not to use that sportster tank I got for free because I have always wanted to learn sheetmetal fab. My skills definitely need work, but let me know what you think of this tank. I still need to roll the tunnel, make a filler and cap, plus weld in a petcock bung. This is more or less a progress pic. I have a question for you guys though.... Am I going to be ok venting the tank by drilling a horizontal hole in the filler cap to meet up with the I.D. on the inside of the cap? That was the direction I wanted to go but if one of you has done it, info on this would be a big help.
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#14 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Arizona
Posts: 149
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I have a couple more questions too.... I am planning on making a set of bars. I already got the old bushing out of the tree where the risers originally bolted to. Is it ok to solid mount bars? I am wanting to make a set of bars that don't need risers and just bolt to the top tree. Is anyone running this without the rubber bushings and instead just using a aluminum or steel spacer in there? The other question I had was I see petcocks come in different sizes, but is that for fuel delivery to the carb reasons, or is it just because stock tanks used different sizes. I just don't know which size to buy. Since it is a custom application does it matter?
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#15 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: find the nicest trailer in the park,I live under it
Posts: 935
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these 3 week builds on the tube dont have any soul.as evidenced by the dyslexic occ joke
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looking for a good re-tox facility |
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#16 |
Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: LA
Posts: 25
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So far, so good.
Been working on mine for over a year now, but the end is in sight. Might look cool if you frisco'd that tank? |
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#17 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: 75401
Posts: 815
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#18 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: IL.
Posts: 222
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Good start. I'm doing the same, but with 2 rigids. Will pick the best after I get them both rolling.
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#19 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: TENNESSEE
Posts: 553
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CHRAFTSMAN SHIP always takes time. enjoy the build as all you can do when done is ride it.....
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I BELIEVE IN JOHN 3:16 |
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#20 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Japanese Alps
Posts: 2,641
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Do you have a titke? If not have you run the engine numbers to make sure they are cool with the cops? Would be heart breaking to build that motor then have issues as has happened here prior.
Re solid mounting bars, Ive not own a trumpy but all my HDs have had some form of isolation except a springer I had. Not sure if its the same but having something to minimise vibrations especially on long trips works for me. Re venting the tank, why not use a vented cap? Great go at the tank!
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Looking for a pre 99 FXDWG in GC - $4K or less please Thanks Pete |
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