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Old 09-09-2018, 11:21 AM   #241
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Default Re: Hot rod knucklehead build

Nice, gonna stash that idea for myself methinks
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Old 09-09-2018, 01:02 PM   #242
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Default Re: Hot rod knucklehead build

Very nice. I like the hi/low switch, great idea.
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Old 09-10-2018, 03:32 AM   #243
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Default Re: Hot rod knucklehead build

Nice!! love the high/low idea!
My 65 Chevy C10 is like that....
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Old 10-25-2018, 04:18 PM   #244
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So I got the bike to start. Fired right up and sounded healthy, except for a bit of popping in the exhaust. Spent a week going over it trying to figure out the culprit and finally narrowed it down to the valves are not sealing properly. (did testing with with pushrods out of bike, so I know its not adjustments)



Not sure if the valves got bent somewhere in the process of being transported around, or if the guys who installed the valve seats did a bad job.



Day after I figured this out it snowed two feet here. Since riding season is done here I am going to have to finish fixing everything and wait till spring to take it for first ride.



I have shifted all my time to finishing up my fxr project since I am taking that bike on a trip this winter. Had hoped to take the knuck but don't want to test out all my ideas on the road far away from my shop/tools.


I at least got a pic of the bike off the lift

Going to be changing the seat to a thinner pleat this winter, but basically this is the finished product. The gauge on the handlebar will eventually be removed as well. Its an air/fuel meter to help with tuning the carbs.
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Old 10-25-2018, 06:29 PM   #245
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Default Re: Hot rod knucklehead build

The switch idea is ingenious. Especially since nobody makes a nice high quality hi/lo panhead style switch for the handlebars---
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Old 11-07-2018, 05:30 PM   #246
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Default

Hopefully the heads will get sorted cheap/free and easy.

BTW, haven't spent much time here in the JJ lately; getting my place ready to sell. But was stoked to see this thread pop up; it just keeps on giving (but in a good way, unlike chlamydia...)
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Old 11-07-2018, 08:38 PM   #247
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Default Re: Hot rod knucklehead build

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The switch idea is ingenious. Especially since nobody makes a nice high quality hi/lo panhead style switch for the handlebars---
Thanks. I have the switch on my Shovelhead located in my head light bucket. Every time I need to switch I have to take my hand off the bars and reach forward. Caught a few nasty bumps in this position.... decided I wanted something different on this bike.
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Old 11-07-2018, 08:40 PM   #248
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Default Re: Hot rod knucklehead build

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Hopefully the heads will get sorted cheap/free and easy.

BTW, haven't spent much time here in the JJ lately; getting my place ready to sell. But was stoked to see this thread pop up; it just keeps on giving (but in a good way, unlike chlamydia...)
Not much cheap or easy in the chopper world unfortunately... haha

Hopefully I will have some good updates for you this spring.
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Old 11-08-2018, 05:39 PM   #249
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Default Re: Hot rod knucklehead build

do a leak down before you take it apart

it pressures the cylinder and the escaping air if any you can hear in the carb or the exhaust end = plus the percentage of loss is read between the cylinders


valve guide to valve clearance is in play as well - knucks do not get good oil flow up to the top right away - if the valves are a bit dry they could be sticky ( walking in the guide a bit ) - the valve was it lapped to the seat - reason I ask the quickway cutter 60/46/30 can scratch the seat with a follow line, up the seat 46 face until the valve operates enough to flatten it out - it will then be seated - we had that happen -what about the spring pressure is it high enough - a radical cam cam with asymmetrical lobes - does make the valve bounce on the seat with light spring pressures even at low engine speeds


just throwing some suggestions your machine has all the hallmarks of precision hope who has helped did the same
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Old 11-08-2018, 10:47 PM   #250
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basically this is the finished product.
Like basic finish.
Thanks for sharing, It's beautiful.
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Old 11-09-2018, 08:41 AM   #251
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Default Re: Hot rod knucklehead build

Im spent at the moment & cant remember, Is there a thread here for your fxr? Your bike looks sweet on the porch, keep us updated.....
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Old 11-09-2018, 09:55 PM   #252
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Originally Posted by johnjzjz View Post
do a leak down before you take it apart

it pressures the cylinder and the escaping air if any you can hear in the carb or the exhaust end = plus the percentage of loss is read between the cylinders


valve guide to valve clearance is in play as well - knucks do not get good oil flow up to the top right away - if the valves are a bit dry they could be sticky ( walking in the guide a bit ) - the valve was it lapped to the seat - reason I ask the quickway cutter 60/46/30 can scratch the seat with a follow line, up the seat 46 face until the valve operates enough to flatten it out - it will then be seated - we had that happen -what about the spring pressure is it high enough - a radical cam cam with asymmetrical lobes - does make the valve bounce on the seat with light spring pressures even at low engine speeds


just throwing some suggestions your machine has all the hallmarks of precision hope who has helped did the same
All good recommendations. Thank you.

I pressurized the cylinders after removing the push rods, and listened at the exhaust and intake tracts. Front exhaust was mildly leaking and rear exhaust was leaking bad. Intakes might be leaking a tiny bit, but Iím guessing Iím just hearing the air escaping the exhaust valves transfer through the heads.

Going to test intake valve seal by filling intake tract with gas once I get the heads off.

I forced oil into the top end before starting so Iím pretty sure the valves arenít sticking, but itís definitely a possibility. Going to look for witness marks on the valve stems.

I should have tested the valve seal before I assembled motor.... live and learn I guess haha
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Old 11-09-2018, 09:56 PM   #253
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Originally Posted by selectedgrub View Post
Like basic finish.
Thanks for sharing, It's beautiful.
Thank you.
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Old 11-09-2018, 10:04 PM   #254
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Originally Posted by Just Passin' Thru... View Post
Im spent at the moment & cant remember, Is there a thread here for your fxr? Your bike looks sweet on the porch, keep us updated.....
No, itís a very minimal fabrication club style fxr. Figured it might not be of interest here. I have been documenting it a little on my instagram account if that sort of thing interests you.

Ig devonnalder
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Old 11-10-2018, 07:44 AM   #255
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Default Re: Hot rod knucklehead build

we turn the assembled head up side down and fill it with low odor mineral spirits - open gas in any place is a thing looking to happen

over night you will see the whats going on

my guess the valve to seat is not sealing as I have no idea what tooling was used in the seat replacement - but we use a toben arc - it stays in place and its all done together from the heads guide hole center to the end seat cutting - this eliminates a slight angle difference in moving it between the different jobs - my guess you will find it right away


fixed a few like this and lapping the valve in 2 phases 80 grit to pull machine marks then 120 to smooth it out -

its one of things that happens only to very very special jobs - you can do 20 junk shovels and they all work perfect using the same equipment - but do a museum quality anything on that machine and the hum bug will get you

look at it as an in depth inspection - not another tear apart and do over take a deep breath first
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Old 11-11-2018, 01:47 PM   #256
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Default Re: Hot rod knucklehead build

Blows my mind that guys will do a head job and not lap the valves...

How the hell are they supposed to “seat” in the fuckin seats when the new surfaces have never met?

Insane

Im not sayin thats what you guys are doing... just an observed fuck up Ive seen too many times by guys who are supposed to be pros.
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Old 11-11-2018, 03:14 PM   #257
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Default Re: Hot rod knucklehead build

Jaws, I never lap the valves. This makes the engine more relaxed.
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Old 11-11-2018, 03:25 PM   #258
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Blows my mind that guys will do a head job and not lap the valves...

How the hell are they supposed to ďseatĒ in the fuckin seats when the new surfaces have never met?

Insane

Im not sayin thats what you guys are doing... just an observed fuck up Ive seen too many times by guys who are supposed to be pros.
the newer equipment past 20 years or so has being sold to machine shops as a time saving production update - time is money - and in a production machine shop / race shop what ever - they see it as a loss in profit to then lap the valves, when the equipment was sold as a one app job - and not then you need to lap the valves - a Harley is 4 and V8 is 16 then washing again and blowing dry -- well you get it


in a street app the valve with in an hour would seat its self as it would close up the imperfections in the mating - reason it can do this is the valve angle is cut at 45 degrees and the seat angle is cut at 46 degrees and this lends its self to a sort of fix its self - using valve spring pressures and the valve ( I am going to call it hammering the seat -- but it is actually not doing that )

they will tell a customer it needs to break in before it starts to run correctly AND that is not the only corner some today will for go and not do
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Old 11-11-2018, 08:21 PM   #259
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Default Re: Hot rod knucklehead build

I guess Im all wet wanting my engines to run correctly from the first startup. I mean, sheesh... who the fuck wants reliable milwaukee tractor anyway. Its not like they were thought up and engineered or anything.


Wont run right until broken in.... screw heat cycles, those are based on old wives tales.
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Old 12-13-2019, 12:29 AM   #260
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Default Re: Hot rod knucklehead build

I'm way over due to update this thread...


Got bike running in Oct of 2018 and realized the valves were not sealing and nothing was working for electrical. Snow storm hit right after I figured this out so I pushed this into a corner and finished up my fxr project instead.


Spring hit and I put this back up on the lift. After a much needed break i started to realize something I had missed before. When sitting on the stand I had safe trail numbers despite the derake. It finally dawned on me that when you hit a bump the trail numbers change on a springer, and not in my favor.


As the rockers absorb a bump they pivot in a manner that pushes the front wheel further out in relationship to the neck. This lowers the trail numbers, and in my case it was to low for comfort.



I have seen people with raked out springers use longer rockers to decrease trail to usable numbers. I figured I could use shorter rockers to increase trail. Picked up a set of midwest rockers and modified like this:


Finished product compared to stock rockers


I did the math and this gives me the exact same trail numbers as a 30 deg neck and stock springer. I was concerned this mod might make the front end feel to stiff, but I actually prefer the way it feel over stock. I have only had bike up to 170 km/h so far but it feels solid and handle bumps great.
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