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#101 |
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: la la land
Posts: 8,512
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Careful, you are dangerously close to separating your craftmanship from the standard chopular cookie cutter piles of shit out there. To much good quality and you wont be popular and famous....
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#102 |
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Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: San Francisco
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I'm with Jaws (as previously noted, the only semi-safe place to be around these parts). Back off with the original thinking and clean execution. As is, it's like you're deliberately setting out to make people feel bad about themselves.
The front pipe is a particularly egregious example. Surely you could have found an ugly solution to the clearance thing. But maybe it doesn't matter. Whatever you do, most interested parties will be wondering not how you made that cool part but where you bought it. |
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#103 | |
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Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: NJ
Posts: 7,762
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For centering the spindle to the rotary table, you can sweep the bore of the rotary table with an indicator.
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#104 | |||
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Join Date: May 2011
Location: Fort Wayne, IN
Posts: 194
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Haha! thanks!
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#105 |
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Join Date: May 2011
Location: Fort Wayne, IN
Posts: 194
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Haven't done much interesting stuff, been cleaning and scrubbing all the parts of my clapped out motor. My friend and I tagged teamed the engine, he did all the hard stuff like sized bearings, trued the flywheels. I always forget to take pictures but got the motor done finally.
Made an executive decision on the heads. Stock ones were just so bad and running out of time so in an effort to help speed things up I bought a set of used but new Vtwin heads off a friend. Wanted to keep it all stock but I can always find correct ones later. Well, that didn't quite save much time... USPS dropped the package and broke a fin off the rear head. So had to fix that. ![]() ![]() ![]() I did take a couple pics of redoing the rockers. I bought a box full of rockers at a swap few years ago, pretty much all of them were crap but managed to piece together a good set. To get them straight and round in spec again I took just the iron block on the surface grinder. You don't need to take much off at all, .0015-.002" just to clean them off and it'll shrink the hole back up. Then used bolts to torque them evenly, stuck them on the hone to get them back to spec measuring the rocker shaft. They went from floppy loose to nice fit. ![]() ![]() Almost everything had to be refurbished and brought back into spec. I was gonna type out everything that was fucked up but it would take forever, that bad. The motor is mostly stock with .030+ 9:1 wiseco, old s&s rods and bolt in Leineweber cam. Going to be running the brand new Morris mag out to side like on a knuck. I never done that before, I understand the concept to get it to clear the front exhaust pushrod but If anyone has some tips on that I would appreciate it! ![]() Here's a sneak peak of the paint getting laid down now. Should be able to pick it all up on tuesday, chrome should be done in about a week. Wrapping up the trans on monday (that also needed fully fucked with). So should have a roller back and mostly assembled by next week! ![]() ![]() |
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#106 |
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Eastern PA
Posts: 4,010
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Yes.
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#107 |
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: la la land
Posts: 8,512
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Mag dont care where it is. As long as it will time and spin accordingly, the motor is happy to have it any old place.
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#108 | |
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Balt, MD
Posts: 918
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Additionally, I generally believe in advance/retard (which is just one reason I prefer Morris over Hunt). That said i have built 2 bikes that didn't seem to care: they were at full advance all the time. But if you need advance/retard, the add'l material that would have to be removed to make an mm74e viable wasn't an option. So, if you can make the mag fit around that pushrod in a fixed position, maybe you can try one of those new fangled caps with the retard mechanism in them? But then again, that's an expensive cap to grind a bunch of material from. If you HAVE to run a magneto, I'd probably go to the trouble of modifying the body to fit over the relay boss, which a few folks have done, but it's alot of damn work. https://www.jockeyjournal.com/forum/...4514&showall=1 |
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#109 |
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: kentucky,USofA
Posts: 1,355
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I use an “edge finder” to find the center of a bore or outside edge of a circle. It’s a round rod with a matching diameter magnet on the end of it. You can get them in various dia. But mine is 10mm. Put it in your chuck with the magnet end down. Turn the mill on running about 800 rpm. Flick the magnet so it slightly off center giving it a “wobble” look while turning. Lower the edge finder into the bore with the quill or the knee. Doesn’t matter where you are in the bore but it’s best to guess at center. Now turn the the Y axis handle until themagnet contacts the edge of the bore and it will start to line up with the rod. Keep turning till it is in line and go a little farther until it pops back off center. Right this point down or zero your digital readout. Now turn in the other direction counting your turns if you don’t have a D.R. until you hit the other side and turn it till the magnet pops off center again. Right it down. If you have a digital readout you can use the “half” function which will give you perfect center in the Y direction. If you don’t just divide your turn count and turn back that many times to perfect zero. Repeat the process from Y axis 0 for X axis and you will be at a perfect center of the bore. Sounds like a pain but I could have done it ten times in the time it took you to read this. Probably could google finding center of bore with an edge finder and watch a video too
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#110 |
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Location: kentucky,USofA
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#111 |
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Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: UK
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As mentioned in that position you have to take a lot of material off the side of the body and the lid. If you don't it'll stop the pushrod tube sitting properly.. and also be a rough time getting that mag to sit flush. I know this because I did it with 2 mags on my pan and it was the fucking death of me.
So it's either mag body or fins.. neither is ideal, my old fairbanks was beat to shit case wise anyway so I dressed it and did it properly but it was a lot of messing about. |
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#112 | |
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Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: NJ
Posts: 7,762
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For a hole or bore, I used an indicator and sweep the diameter. Once your have zero all around, zero your X and Y axis. I also use co-axial indicators, they work great and are very quick.
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#113 |
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Join Date: Dec 2011
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Andy in my twenty years of machining I never broke one so I don’t know what is in it. And I didn’t know this method of finding the center of hole until a few years ago. When I learned it I was like”shit” that’s too easy. I, like you, only used edge finders to find flat edges all that time, works the same on a radius, and you don’t have to be in the center of the arc. If you have digital readout on your mill with the “half” function you can find the center of your hole in about thirty seconds. They come in all different diameters. Were I learned how to machine we had 6mm dia. Edgefinders. I left that place and now have a 10mm. I have to admit, I like the smaller diameter for finding center of a hole. Tell you what, watch the video I posted, then find center of a bore with your edge finder, then sweep it and see how far off you are. I think you will like it.
Now back to the chopper goodness, sorry for the Derail. Dan asked . I probably should have P.M.ed him instead of putting the answer here.
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#114 |
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Location: NJ
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I never broke one either, but I have kids that break them every now and then.
I saw the video, the RPM is way too low for an edge-finder. They did use a collet, which is better than a drill chuck. For holes or bores, indicators are the most accurate method. That is what’s taught in textbooks. Sure, an edge-finder will work, but sweeping a hole will show any errors with the hole. Plus, if you really needed it, you could use a tenths indicator. Sorry, back to chopper goodness!
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#115 |
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Join Date: May 2011
Location: Fort Wayne, IN
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she's all done, fired right up and everything works. See ya in California.
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#116 |
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Location: NJ
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CONGRATS!!!!!
That bike is gorgeous and you have some really cool details, that tank panel is something that jumps out to me, I love it. Have fun, you deserve it.
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#117 |
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Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: UK
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Congratulations man!
She runs strong and sounds spot on! Lots of hard work but you got there!! Enjoy. |
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#118 |
Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Lancaster,Va
Posts: 82
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Great looking scoot. Time to ride
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#119 |
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Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 1,713
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What an ugly motorcycle. I hate it.
Um, the truth is, it's fucking excellent. A real beauty and, no doubt, a real good rider. |
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#120 |
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: Arkansas and Georgia
Posts: 942
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Well done!!!!
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